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Post by gy6rocket on Feb 19, 2008 8:32:44 GMT -5
I was just brain storming last night, and I don't have my scoot at home yet to check this out, but perhaps one of you dawg's can chime in here.
My idea is converting the automatic electric choke to a manual electric choke. I figure the choke is probably a coil? that when energized is shut, and the engine warms the current is cut off opening the choke. Since there seems to be a general dislike of the auto system since it sometimes sticks, is is possible to just hardwire a small on/off switch to control the choke?
I would much rather control it this way, it would be a no-brainier then.
Thoughts?
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Post by scooterollie on Feb 19, 2008 9:13:39 GMT -5
No, it actually works just the opposite. No power = needle raised and richer mixture, higher idle. Power = element heats up and needle extends (drops), blocking off the enricher port.
They are actually a simple device and I wonder just how much trouble they actually cause. Only "trouble" I have had with them is warming up too quickly and closing the opening too soon. I have read in the past that needle height may be adjustable in some but never have investigated. The scoot I have now is perfect - stays on for a couple of minutes, just long enough for the engine to run OK when the enricher port closes. Bumps idle about 500 rpm at start then slowly comes down.
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Post by gy6rocket on Feb 19, 2008 9:20:27 GMT -5
Ok then you could wire the switch so:
choke on = open circuit
choke off = closed circuit
I'm guessing its just a 12 volt coil
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Post by "Big Guy" on Feb 19, 2008 9:20:59 GMT -5
Okay, I'll bite... why would you want to do that?
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Post by swampsniper on Feb 19, 2008 10:52:33 GMT -5
Ok then you could wire the switch so: choke on = open circuit choke off = closed circuit I'm guessing its just a 12 volt coil It has a chamber filled with special wax. the coil heats and expands the wax, which moves the needle. Most of the so called choke problems are something else. Also, the quality of the chokes varies, order one from a good company, don't replace junk with junk. |
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Post by earlwb on Feb 19, 2008 11:05:40 GMT -5
On my scooters, they run the 12v common return from everything through the heater coil to ground. Thus if you unplug the heater coil the scooter acts like it blew a fuse and sits there dead. It is sort of a safety feature in case the coil burns out to prevent you from trying to start it without the automatic enrichener working or riding off down the road.
So to bypass the automatic enrichener heater coil you need to fabricate something to manually shut off the extra fuel port as desired. Then you need to bypass the heater coil by shorting the two wires together. There is a slight bit of resistance to the heater coil, but although the guys who removed the enrichener unit haven't complained about it, you might need to put in something to serve as a load to replace that resistance the coil has.
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Post by scooterollie on Feb 19, 2008 11:06:30 GMT -5
The instructions I saw sometime last year for adjusting the enricher said that the needle on some will screw in or out. Wouldn't want to move it very much. Don't mean to put you down for your question, it is valid and others have wondered the same thing. For me, I would rather have one that works properly and forget the rest.
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Post by gy6rocket on Feb 19, 2008 13:37:45 GMT -5
Mine works perfect for the time being, like I said, just brain storming as I have started to order my performance parts. I would rather just have a manual choke, where I can turn it on or off manually, using the existing electric choke. I forgot about the enricher how ever. I guess I need to figure out how the circuit knows when the engine warms, must be a temp sensor or something. I will report back if I discover anything in my build process. Just need to get the scoot home! Its chillin at work and I've been too busy to work on it during business hours, and I cant ride it home yet because its snowy here. Just waiting for the next 40 degree day to drive it home & test out my new closed face helmet!  |
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Post by earlwb on Feb 19, 2008 14:42:23 GMT -5
How the enrichener knows it is warm.
it is a marvelously simple process. Inside the cylinder there is a plug of special wax, that is heated by the ceramic coated heater element. As the wax heats up it expands pushing a needle farther out. That needle blocks off the extra fuel port for the enrichener.
There are several articles out there on replacing it with a manual choke system. Basically they remove the automatic enrichener, and use some JB-weld to block of the extra fuel port. Then if you need something to start it, they hook up a small plunger pump to squirt some fuel into the carb. it is in some ATV forums and stuff on how they do it.
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Post by scooterollie on Feb 19, 2008 14:54:31 GMT -5
Yeah, my 60s Honda Dream had a little plunger you pushed a few times at cold start. The manual said to ..... "tickle the carburetor a few times on cold start"!
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Post by earlwb on Feb 19, 2008 15:07:15 GMT -5
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Post by gy6rocket on Feb 19, 2008 22:48:58 GMT -5
The links were very useful, thx earl. I am leaning towards no choke and a primer now |
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Post by swakk on Feb 20, 2008 17:09:56 GMT -5
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Post by gy6rocket on Feb 20, 2008 17:18:45 GMT -5
Ok here is what I am thinking after looking at the OEM schematic. I want to make my own electromagnet coil to draw the enricher valve upward when the circuit has current (on) then when the electromagnet loses current (off) a spring will push the neddle valve closed. This way the coil only needs to be energized when you want the choke on (1-2 minutes) other wise the coil draws no power and the spring keeps the enricher closed. Would take some fabrication but nothing that I cannot handle.
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Post by earlwb on Feb 20, 2008 17:59:21 GMT -5
You are the man today Swakk, have a karma on me.
Thanks. that is a nice job.
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Post by perus on Apr 6, 2008 15:13:13 GMT -5
Swakk, a (late) karma from me as well - this post helped me with the adjustment of my enricher  Br, Per |
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