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Post by Parker2100 on Sept 5, 2012 14:32:21 GMT -5
Wiredgeorge. Yes, I had that happen on my old Daewoo Nubira when I bought it used. Turned out that the Used Car Dealer lost the original oil cap and replaced it with one that was not made for the car. Oil blew out of the fill hole.
99.9% sure that the principle is the same for Motorcycle/Scooters.
Parker
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Post by ibtrikin on Sept 5, 2012 21:49:42 GMT -5
That's not it then, The dipstick side is dry.
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Post by wiredgeorge on Sept 6, 2012 7:34:32 GMT -5
There is pressure in the crankcase and oil will leak a lot more when the engine is running than when not running. There is a hose venting the crankcase that terminates in a filter. Oil tends to blow by the piston rings under certain conditions... such as high speed running for extended periods and the manufacturer can't just put a hose on the crankcase vent and run it open where it will slop on the road; it will either go into the airbox where it is supposed to be sucked into the intake and be burned or go into a filter. This is EPA stuff. Blowing oil on the road from a scooter really won't hurt anything. On my vintage motorcycles, I don't even use a hose but the crankcase vent had best not be obstructed because if it is, pressure builds and it will blow engine seals.
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Post by rapidjim on Sept 6, 2012 8:50:26 GMT -5
Too much back pressure into the crankcase can aslo be a sign of bad rings. Had a 150 the other day that could blow oil 4 feet out the dip stick hole just by cranking it. I am not talking a spray I mean a massive amount. Could drain the oil out in a manner of strokes.
Jim
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Post by ibtrikin on Sept 6, 2012 16:30:55 GMT -5
It seems like it isn't leaking as bad since I used JB Weld on the cracks in the head. It's still leaving some drips, so I'm gonna check it over again this weekend. I also pulled the fuel filter off the valve cover vent line in case it was causing too much pressure and causing oil to come out at the valve cover vent.
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Post by ibtrikin on Sept 7, 2012 12:22:48 GMT -5
I just got done checking the Red Rocket out again. the leak is definitely slower, and I did zero in on the culprit of the small leak I still have. I must not have cleaned the crack on the bottom of the head(below the bottoms head bolt on the CVT side of the engine) good enough, some oil was getting out from under the JB Weld in that spot. When the engine cools, I'll scuff, clean, and JB Weld again. It should be in good shape then.
I plan on ordering a BBK kit in a few months anyway, so I'm only crossing my fingers that this will get me through til then. If not I'll grab a head from buggypartsnw. Hopefully this will fix it temporarily though.
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Post by ibtrikin on Sept 8, 2012 12:26:30 GMT -5
Ran to the store this morning, and no more leaks! It's still dry as a bone underneath and I had WOT for a bit too. JB Weld just may prove useful. Time will tell.
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Post by wiredgeorge on Sept 8, 2012 17:01:27 GMT -5
That is good news. The JB Weld product is pretty useful in certain circumstances; best way to have it hold is to cut a channel in the crack and JB Weld both sides if you are up to taking off the head. If you only do one side, a channel cut will still help hold the stuff in place better than a flat patch type application. A channel cut is easiest done with a dremel tool and carbide cutter tip. See widgetsupply.com for the cutter tips. Carbide is MUCH harder than the material the head was cut from...
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Post by ibtrikin on Sept 11, 2012 18:19:10 GMT -5
Well, it started leaking a little today. I'll have to order a head. Oh well, it was worth a shot
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Post by Deleted on Jan 15, 2013 2:57:00 GMT -5
These engines run on crankcase pressure vs vacuum, you have to build a hose that runs from the valve cover vent to a PVC valve, and put a Y fitting and again run a hose to your dip stick connection, they sell kits for this you can pick up at a lot of web sites, the trick is to keep the hoses up so you do not make a loop seal, but you have to take the pressure off the crank case or as long as you run you will leak oil. The kits come with a can, you will send that much oil up, but once you turn off the engine it drains back into the dipstick connection. That's what I have but I have a question... Coming from the valve cover to the PVC valve... You realize a PVC valve is basically a pressure-based ball valve that allows air and oil through one way but not the other... So... Which WAY does the PVC valve FACE? Does it allow Air and Oil to go TO the Catch can FROM the Valve cover? Or does it face to where Air and Oil can come FROM the catch can TO the valve cover? Because that's the upgrade I'll be facing once my new gy6 comes in
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