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Post by cameratester on Feb 4, 2012 14:53:25 GMT -5
I have a Peace TPGS-808 150cc scooter. I was told that it uses regular 87 gas because it's not a high compression engine, and 10w 40 oil NOT fully synthetic. But the sticker next to the gas tank says use 90 octane or higher. I didn't look at what the sticker for oil says if there is one. But I'm asking everyones opinion on this.
On my last 50cc I was told to use premium gas and between 10w 20 and 10w 40 fully synthetic oil.
I'm just confused. Please help.
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Post by terrilee on Feb 4, 2012 15:06:06 GMT -5
dont use synthetic till u have broken it in
i use 89-90 grade gas 10w30-10w40 are fine
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Post by cameratester on Feb 4, 2012 16:00:37 GMT -5
dont use synthetic till u have broken it in
i use 89-90 grade gas 10w30-10w40 are fine It has 3000+ miles on it, but the engine has been rebuilt, and I think I've broken it in by now. So now do I use fully synthetic? And what if I use 92/93 octane? That's what I filled my tank up and my gas can up with yesterday.
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Post by alexl on Feb 4, 2012 16:13:39 GMT -5
87 AKI (anti-knock index) is fine. Asia and Europe use a different convention called RON (research octane number). Neither convention is actually an "octane" number, but rather a research number based on octane. Because of these two conventions, there is a 4-5 point difference between the US and other countries. IE 87 AKI here, is 91 RON where the scoot was built. In short, it does say use 90 octane or higher, BUT that is 87 in the USA.
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Post by terrilee on Feb 4, 2012 16:25:23 GMT -5
alexi answered ur question about gas
u say u think u its broken in well then go ahead and run syn
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Post by cameratester on Feb 4, 2012 16:30:16 GMT -5
87 AKI (anti-knock index) is fine. Asia and Europe use a different convention called RON (research octane number). Neither convention is actually an "octane" number, but rather a research number based on octane. Because of these two conventions, there is a 4-5 point difference between the US and other countries. IE 87 AKI here, is 91 RON where the scoot was built. In short, it does say use 90 octane or higher, BUT that is 87 in the USA. Does this apply for all scooters? And I filled up my 2 gallon can with premium gas, can I use that until it's finished? Or will it give my scooter problems? And does anyone else agree with that? Or should I still use premium? I thought all motorcycles and scooters used premium gas. Please I need some more light shed on this subject. And do I use fully synthetic or not right now that the engine is broken in (since the engine has been rebuilt.)?
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Post by terrilee on Feb 4, 2012 16:41:40 GMT -5
u say the engine is broken in so use what ever u want. use what ever gas u want.
u seem like u want people to tell u what u want so do whatever the F u want.
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Post by cameratester on Feb 4, 2012 17:00:22 GMT -5
u say the engine is broken in so use what ever u want. use what ever gas u want.
u seem like u want people to tell u what u want so do whatever the F u want. uuuuhhhh.....wtf??? Actually I want people to tell me what I NEED to do. I have no clue. I'm just trying to get many voices on this matter....Goodness..
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Post by alexl on Feb 4, 2012 17:14:12 GMT -5
Higher octane won't hurt it, go ahead and run it. Higher octane just isnt NEEDED and the most power will be delivered with 87(however, negligible, so don't waste your money in the future. gy6 based engines are pretty low compression ratio, so a higher octane is not needed. some people will tell you that higher octane will give more power, this is NOT true. In fact, the higher the octane, the lower the energy content of the fuel. Higher octane is only used with high compression engines because it has better resistance to spark-knock or pre-detination.
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Post by cameratester on Feb 4, 2012 18:12:27 GMT -5
Ok so I'll start using 87 octane. And will 10w 30 fully synthetic oil be ok to use for the scooter all year? I get my oil at target and thats the only fully synthetic oil that I can use for my scooter. They may have 10w 40 non fully synthetic, I was told to use that. Just one last time confirming, should I use fully synthetic or not for this scooter? Sorry terrilee.
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Post by terrilee on Feb 4, 2012 18:15:45 GMT -5
i wasnt going to say anymore to u BUT i cant hold my tongue
i told u what to do
u said its broken in so run synthetic
i think , no i know, the reason u wanted MANY voices is because im a woman.
why do u think NO ONE else answered ur post? because i answered it.!!!!!!!!!!! I may not have been specific as alexi on the gas BUT that wasnt good enough for u.
you say rebuilt what was re built the whole Fing thing? the head/ the pistons? the cam chain
see u dont say anything but --rebuilt how many miles since the re build NO ONE knows u dont say
HOW MANY MILES SHOULD U DRIVE FOR BREAK IN ? AFTER 80 POSTS U DONT KNOW WHAT KIND OF GAS OR OIL ? WTF ?
i think u didnt want to take advice from a woman. well good from now on i dont care if i have the ONLY answer to help u YOU CAN KISS MY SKINNY A*S YOUR DONE--HIT THE DOOR
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Post by johnwarfin on Feb 4, 2012 18:28:44 GMT -5
yikes!! terrilee is seein red again. she aint just drawn that way... she really IS bad. bad to the bone!
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Post by mainepeace on Feb 4, 2012 19:25:49 GMT -5
I've kept quiet because I haven't read this post yet.
Use 87+ octane. On an unmodified scooter that's enough. However, the QUALITY of the gas will vary from region to region, so it may be that in your area the better gas is the 93 octane. Try 87. If you have problems or hear detonation "pinging" then switch to 89 or 91. Alexl is right about the octane ratings and the power.
So is Jessica Rabbit. Listen to her as she knows 1000 ways to make your life miserable! LOL!
I run 5W30 in all our rental scooters. I like thinner weight oil with small engines. That's just a personal preference. I'd be hard pressed to actually find someone who can definitively show me a difference between running 5W30, 10W30, or 10W40 on these engines. The tolerances are just not close enough to make that much of a difference under normal circumstances. If you're trying to start your scooter at -20 deg C then the different weight oil WILL make a difference. It all depends. But you don't have to tear your hair out worrying about it.
You can use synthetic. Or not. Up to you. Actually, there is no reason to not use synthetic during break-in. Some people have their own views about it, about wearing in the rings and seats and such, but personally I don't see an issue.
Greg
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Post by johnwarfin on Feb 4, 2012 19:44:47 GMT -5
i agree with greg about type of oil during break-in. after breaking in about 150 small bike engines with both synth and mineral im convinced it dont matter. i found "hard" break-in does result in more powerful bike though.
i have a case of heavy weight and a case of light weight. the light weight is great for winter starting but needs topping off twice as often. both on my old scooter and on my new one.
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Post by skuttadawg on Feb 4, 2012 21:30:23 GMT -5
I always use premium since it runs better and less likely to spark knock , you can use midgrade which is a blend of 87 and premium . For oil I like Castrol Synblend since it has the best of both worlds . Synthetic is slicker and helps the engine run a tad cooler , dino oil will form a protective film to reduce dry starting . I see some change their oil at 500 to 1,000 miles which it is better to change it BEFORE it goes bad , but as long as its golden in color it good . Change when it starts to blacken .Solid black color its cooked and should be changed asap . Try to get gas that does not have ethanol in it if you can get it. Ethanol acts as a solvent and dissolves the rubber parts in the fuel system which clogs up the jet sin the carb . Thats why its recommended to replace the fuel lines with quality tubing and fuel filter . Ethanol only has a 90 day shelf life according to www.epa.gov ( not .com) so if you store your scooter in the winter drain out all the gasoline or ad Stabil . I had a BBK on a 50 and I put in 87 by mistake and the piston cracked at half tank . So yes a high compression engine does need premium . The average compression ratio is 9 to 1 so midgrade or premium will work fine , after all your only getting a gallon so what if its 20 cents more per gallon . I only get gas where each grade has its own hose so I do not get any 87 left in the line by previous customer . For your gears look in the manual as my 50 used GL5 which is 80 90 gear lube but my Echarm uses 15w40 like in the engine . I would change it asap on a used scooter since most do not change it like it should be . Synthetic is what I would use for gears since it lasts so much longer . If yours takes GL5 its much thicker than engine oil and you will have to squeeze the bottle real hard for it to pour out , more so in winter time . Look for the threads on adding boric acid to the oil as they is several postings on this . BA reduces friction and dissolves sulphur deposits in the engine . I know of two with water cooled engines that used BA with full synthetic and the wet clutch slipped so it would not engage . I have done this with Castrol Synblend and not had that issue . A magnetic oil drain plug is good to collect ring dust on it rather than have it flowing through the engine . Clean the oil screen at oil changes as well to prevent clogs that will damage the engine
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Post by cameratester on Feb 5, 2012 20:04:32 GMT -5
Ummm... I hate making enemies, but it wasn't because you're a woman, I didn't even think anything about it. You seem to know more than a lot of people about scooters, so it wasn't anything to do with that. I am the type of person who needs to be convinced about certain things and this is something I needed to be convinced one way or the other so I don't damage my scooter. It has nothing at all to do with you being a woman or not. Sorry... As far as rebuilt, new head, cleaned piston, new valves. That's it I think. Lets just be friends, ok?
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Post by cameratester on Feb 5, 2012 20:09:41 GMT -5
Thanks everyone for the help! I appreciate it
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Post by terrilee on Feb 5, 2012 20:10:51 GMT -5
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Post by ootscoot on Feb 5, 2012 23:05:30 GMT -5
Not sure the climate where you live, but in warmer climates, like here in Southern Calif, I use 15W40 diesel oil in my scoots. In winter months I use 10W40. I used to use synthetic oils, thinking they would last longer between changes - and maybe they do, but I like to change my oil - keeps me connected to the bike, so now I change the oil in my SYM bikes every 3000km, for my Chinese bike, every 1000km. I use premium gas - less punch, but less ping...
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Post by dyoung1167 on Feb 9, 2012 20:48:14 GMT -5
fuel can change from region to region and from season to season. in theory low test has more potential, but in reality it varies. every engine is somewhat unique and the best way is to determine is through several tanks of each grade and calculating which one gives you the best fuel economy. as stated, these are typically low compression so high test isn't needed, but you may get better mileage with it - in maine, but low grade in fla. and with mid grade in montanna, which could change come the summer months.
as for oil, it should be rode hard (hard break-in) to start, but not WOT all the time. get on it for a minute or so let off and cruise for same, on and off etc. first oil change around 20 miles or so, then continue hard break-in for 300 or so and change oil again. the last 4 or 5 % of break-in will happen by about 1500 miles and you can ride as you please during this time and after.
i did use dino oil for break-in and switched to mobile 1 after, and will probably do the same again as it worked well for me, but after much reading i think you are probably ok to breaki-in with synthetic. according to mobile 1 it is not specifically "slipperier" it is just simply more durable and withstands thermal, chemical, and shear breakdown better ( lasts longer)
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