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Post by scootwes on Jul 1, 2007 22:51:36 GMT -5
OK, scoot mechanics, here's an easy one: How do I get the two rear wheel bearings out of this bracket (after, of course, I've removed the retaining ring clip!):  Do I need a special tool? (And by the way, can I get these bearings locally? Like in Portland, OR? I don't really want to order online and wait days for them) Thanks for any help! |
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Post by natefromogden on Jul 2, 2007 8:34:41 GMT -5
I used a vice and some large sockets to push mine out. Or, you could find a shop with a bearing press to do it for you.
Bigger question is why are you removing them? Mine had 5500 miles on them with no reason to replace them. I removed mine when I needed to weld on the bracket and didn't want to heat them up.
And if you need to buy some, a good industrial bearing shop should be able to find some replacements by measuring the current ones.
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Post by 90GTVert on Jul 2, 2007 8:55:36 GMT -5
Yes, they are available locally. They are a light press fit, so if you warm the outer housing, you can tap them out with a large socke that just fits, but it's best to press them out (and in). Put the new bearings in the freezer and warm the outer housing and they will go right in easily. Stan OK, scoot mechanics, here's an easy one: How do I get the two rear wheel bearings out of this bracket (after, of course, I've removed the retaining ring clip!): Do I need a special tool? (And by the way, can I get these bearings locally? Like in Portland, OR? I don't really want to order online and wait days for them) Thanks for any help! |
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Post by scootwes on Jul 2, 2007 11:53:40 GMT -5
The reason I'm putting in new bearings:
I noticed that the rear wheel "wobbled" a bit, even when I tightened the rear wheel nut as tight as I could get it, and there was also "surplus noise" coming from the rear hub area, so I figured it was time to take the wheel off and see what was happening.
I found two things:
one of the two inner bearings obviously had no grease left, it felt like gravel inside when I turned the bearing; secondly, there was some metal shearing off of what I can only describe as a "fat washer" (or maybe it's a spacer) that fits between the big wheel nut and the wheel bearings, and that was probably because I tried to tighten the wheel nut too much to try to get rid of the wheel wobble.
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Post by beaugator on Jul 2, 2007 18:05:17 GMT -5
Right now I'm waiting for a replacement wheel due to a mis-machined wheel hub. Mine was machined slightly off center and at an angle through the hub causing a wobble that is visible when I run the engine up and watch the rear wheel shake and wobble. You can even see the rear brake caliper move side to side as the wheel turns!
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Post by scootwes on Jul 3, 2007 13:05:37 GMT -5
Well, the wheel is true, so it's gotta be bearings and washers in the hub. I went to a bearing shop yesterday and bought the 6203-2RS bearings (the cheaper $10 ones - they were out of the quality $25 ones), and though they look the same size, the new ones are a BEAR to get back on the shaft! The old ones just slip on and off easily. The inside diameter was checked with an electronic micrometer, and it read exactly 5/8". I thought these parts are all metric??? I also have a 22mm socket, although I think it should be 21mm, but I can't find any 21mm socket in any local shop. As a result I'm starting to round the nut edges because the socket has slipped off a few times. If I ruin the nut, I'll have to use a normal nut with hardened washer, because you just can't buy a 17mm (inside thread) nut with flange around here. Gosh I wish I could get through one repair job without something going wrong!  |
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Post by earlwb on Jul 3, 2007 14:14:15 GMT -5
The axle nut on my scooter used a 23mm nut. I got a socket at Lowes to fit no problem. I think Home Depot didn't have any at the time. Sears usually has them too. Some of the autoparts stores usually have a good selection fo sockets too.
Yeah I agree a flanged nut would be nice to get as a spare.
I'd do like Stan jessup stated, freeze the bearings and heat up the bracket, that should make it a lot easier.
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Post by scootwes on Jul 4, 2007 1:23:53 GMT -5
So, for anyone who is interested, here is what I experienced with the bearings, which is completely not what I expected:
The markings on the OEM rear bearings said 6203-RS. I went to a bearing store, and they matched me up with a $10 chinese bearing that said 6203-RS 5/8, after measuring both with an electronic micrometer.
(Keep in mind, that because of some metal shavings off the washers, the drive shaft had worn down a little towards the end of the shaft, making it a little smaller diameter.)
Well, when I tried to put the new bearings on, they wouldn't go on the shaft past the worn down area, but the old bearings slid easily on and off.
It turns out that there is another variation of the 6203-RS bearing, which is 16mm inside diameter, instead of 5/8 inch. The difference between the two is only 3/1000 inch, but it's enough to stop the 5/8 going on the normal drive shaft. They told me that one of their Ohio locations (I am in Oregon) had two of the 16mm bearings, and could order. I nixed that, I wanted to get the scoot back on the road!
Anyway, I decided to put the one good OEM bearing on the inside, and the new 5/8 bearing on the outside, where the slimmer, worn-down part of the drive shaft was. And violá, it worked! I got rid of the wobble, the noise from the bearing, and it rides beautifully. I'm probably the only scooterist in the country with two bearings of different inside diameters, on the same drive shaft!
Sorry for the boring story, but I guess it goes to show you should always expect the unexpected with these chinese scooters! (Thanks earlwb and stan for your advice)
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Post by earlwb on Jul 4, 2007 6:08:10 GMT -5
Well that sounded easier that what i would have done. I would have started up the scoot, and got my son to work the throttle for me, and get the axle to spin up some and run some extra fine sandpaper on it (or a grinding stone) and "sort of" ground down the shaft a little bit at a time to just fit. I would have been cussing those "foreigners" a lot doing it too.  |
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Post by WarrenS on Jul 4, 2007 7:43:27 GMT -5
Many years ago I worked for a bearing distributor. At that time all standard bearings came in metric sizes and oil seals came in inches. I never understood the reason for it.
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Post by beaugator on Jul 4, 2007 20:42:21 GMT -5
So the wobble you got was from the bad inner bearing collapsing? What was the PN for the $25 bearing BTW and was it a 16mm ID? Thanks...
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Post by scootwes on Jul 5, 2007 22:03:16 GMT -5
the wobble, I think, came from one of the spacer washers getting torn up a bit, and then wearing the drive shaft down a bit where it sat. So the OEM bearing then started wobbling a bit on the shaft, because it was no longer a snug fit.
The 16mm ID bearing had a part number 6203-RS. The 5/8 ID bearing had a part number of 6203-RS 5/8. The $10 bearings are made in China (The ones I got had "General Bearing Ltd" stamped on the plastic bag). The US or European made bearings cost $25 and up, Timken, VBX, etc. I am sure it's worth paying the extra, some have ceramic balls instead of steel, and will last much longer than steel balls. No double meaning intended!
If you google 6203-RS you get hundreds of hits.
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Post by beaugator on Jul 6, 2007 18:08:04 GMT -5
Thanks mang! Karma for you too!
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