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Post by edfr on Apr 29, 2011 20:39:57 GMT -5
Sure take the belt and Variator off and try starting it. Lefty
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Post by JonwayRider on Apr 29, 2011 20:58:11 GMT -5
Ok, I'll do that tomorrow when I have some daylight. I'll let you guys know something once I have completed everything.
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Post by JonwayRider on Apr 30, 2011 12:35:11 GMT -5
Ok guys here is an update:
I changed the oil and found a pretty good bit of metal shavings in the bottom of the oil plug, not in the filter itself. That worries me. I took the fuel line off the carb to see if I was getting gas and gas flows freely when I crank the engine. Although I did notice the engine wasnt sticking when i tried to crank it like before.
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Post by JonwayRider on Apr 30, 2011 12:39:27 GMT -5
I also took the sprak plug out and checked it out, it was wet and sooty. Here is a pic I took of the sparkplug, I wiped the sparkplug before I took the pic, but it looked the same except it was just wet. Attachments:
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Post by JonwayRider on Apr 30, 2011 13:51:37 GMT -5
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Post by sprocket on Apr 30, 2011 15:41:37 GMT -5
That plug is finished it needs to be replaced...
You need to adjust the valves...
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Post by JonwayRider on Apr 30, 2011 15:56:58 GMT -5
You think thats all it needs is a new plug and valve adjustment?
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Post by sprocket on Apr 30, 2011 16:09:36 GMT -5
Well it is the cheapest route. Adjustment is free and the plug is $5 or less...
May not be the problem, but at least you rule it out...
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Post by JonwayRider on May 1, 2011 10:55:25 GMT -5
Well, I changed the sparkplug and its still doing the same thing, as in the video. I took the spark plug back out and tested the compression with my finger, it when I turn it over it blows my finger right off the hole. I'm going to try and get a set of feeler guages today if they arent to much and adjust the valves. Any other things I should be looking for while I have the valve cover off?
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Post by sprocket on May 1, 2011 11:09:24 GMT -5
Nope...
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Post by JonwayRider on May 1, 2011 14:32:49 GMT -5
ok, I adjusted to valves to .003 intake and .004 exhaust. I did notice when I did break open the valve cover, the little rod that goes over the chain was broken so I pulled the broken half out. I didnt know what it did so I didnt attemp to crank the engine after I adjusted the valves. What is that thing and is it safe to start the engine without it?
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Post by edfr on May 1, 2011 14:54:37 GMT -5
BUMMER!!! Well those are the pieces you found in when you drained the oil. That is your Chain Guide and you need to get a new chain guide and a new TENSIONER as well. Do not run it like that the chain may come off and most likelty aready it has jumped some teeth and is out of time.
So while you wait for the parts try to clean out the crankcase of metal parts, maybe use a small pin like magnet to get in there otherwise you will have to break the engine apart to clean it out. Hopefully none of the piesce ruiened the Crank bearings as well. Lefty
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Post by JonwayRider on May 1, 2011 15:11:54 GMT -5
edfr, I think im afraid thats already happened. Because before when i tried to start it, it would stop right in the middle of cranking and the battery still had good charge on it so I know it wasnt the battery getting weak
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Post by sprocket on May 1, 2011 15:23:10 GMT -5
They will do that if there is no tension on the chain...it throws things out of whack.
As far as the crank bearings are concerned you may be lucky or you may not be. They are open-caged bearings and pieces of steel floating around in the oil, could have ruined them...
So, the parts to fix the cam chain problem are under $20. Probably worth trying that first. If you still have problems then it may be engine rebuild or replacement time...
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Post by JonwayRider on May 1, 2011 15:29:51 GMT -5
Awesome, so there still is hope. I'm thinking about just buying a whole new engine anyway. How hard is it to swap the engine?
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Post by JonwayRider on May 1, 2011 17:21:34 GMT -5
Hey sprocket, thanks for the advice, but that pdf is a dead link.
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Post by edfr on May 1, 2011 17:49:11 GMT -5
OH NO!!! SPROCKET can't be DEAD, he just posted . Lefty
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Post by sprocket on May 2, 2011 13:23:29 GMT -5
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Post by edfr on May 2, 2011 14:10:24 GMT -5
Good one Bro, Lefty
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Post by JonwayRider on May 4, 2011 17:00:26 GMT -5
So how hard is it to replace the chain guide? Do I have to break open the engine behind the valves?
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Post by JonwayRider on May 5, 2011 14:31:44 GMT -5
Anyone?
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Post by sprocket on May 5, 2011 14:50:56 GMT -5
You must remove the head for certain. Here is how the lower guide fits in the 50cc GY6 engine. The 150 should be the same Since in the picture there is no upper guide, it can obviously be removed with the head off... But don't quote me... Attachments:
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Post by JonwayRider on May 5, 2011 15:12:52 GMT -5
Thats a bummer. As I cant do any major work on the bike in my apartment complex. I guess the next best thing would be a new engine. Where could I get a cheap one, say $300?
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Post by sprocket on May 5, 2011 15:23:03 GMT -5
There are lots of grey market engines on Ebay, but I would avoid those... some people feel they got burned...
Most of the parts suppliers offer complete engines.. shop around and do some research
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