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Post by djeeper on Feb 26, 2011 18:51:48 GMT -5
Ok... it seems that my scooter will start fairly easily (about 10 kicks) when cold while pumping the throttle and such.
When it is warm, it will try to start, but sputter out and not run.
Also, my starter does not seem to turn fast enough to start it either. Whats the deal?
i adjusted the valves to .004/.005ex last weekend, but have not ridden it since.
The idle is fine... though when it is warm, it will try to slowly sputter out (over 10 seconds) after revving the throttle.
Anyone have any ideas on this?
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Post by edfr on Feb 26, 2011 19:00:10 GMT -5
Sounds like maybe your enricher is not shutting off and flooding it. You could probably keep it running if you up the Idle. But why not just check your Enricher and see if it is EXTENDED when it is all warmed up. Take it off and when hot and if you can see a the spring between the Plunger and Rubber holder it is EXTENDED and that is not your problem.
Also when it shuts off and dies after it is warm take out the Plug and see if it is WET or DRY. Lefty
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Post by djeeper on Feb 26, 2011 19:09:18 GMT -5
the enricher is disengaging. i hear the rpm drop when it does. at warm up idle, the rear wheel spins a good bit while on the center stand.
can someone post up a sound byte of their starter turning over? I am thinking my battery is dead and not turning the starter fast enough. It sounds like it might want to start, but it doesnt turn fast enough.... if that makes sense.
think this could be a stator issue?
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Post by edfr on Feb 26, 2011 19:26:17 GMT -5
If the rear wheel spins a lot AFTER it is warmned up and the Enricher shut off the extra fuel then it is idleing to high. As for the slow cranking first check your battery to see how many volts it has without starting the scoot. It may not be fully charged, sitting there it should read at least 12.5 volts. I would also re-check the valves and make sure they are adjusted correctly. Hard starts when Hot is usually caused by your valves not adjusted right they are to tight and looseing compression when hot. Lefty
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Post by buiditright on Feb 26, 2011 19:35:11 GMT -5
yes as Lefty says and your scoot should start on your first or second kick or the first push ofd the starter button. My scoot will also start without having to give it gas. If your choke is working properly it will give itself gas to start.
Again you should not have to give it gas to start it
Bill
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Post by djeeper on Feb 26, 2011 21:10:09 GMT -5
Well, i retuned my carb and it is not sputtering out like it used to. mixture screw was about 4 turns out. 2.75 seems better.
But... it still isnt starting well...
My scoot has over 7k miles, but only a couple hundred on the bbk. It will hold 40mph though.
my foot hurts from kicking it.
The way i found to get it to start is to pump the throttle 3-4 times, hold it WOT and kick like hell. Usually starts by the 10th kick when it is warm.
still doesnt seem right....
Another thing... when i was letting it idle, i hooked a meter to the battery. The voltage was all over the place hanging around 3-6 volts (sparratic numbers) then it would spike up to 13ish for a second, then hover back down.
Im wondering if the stator is going out, not giving me strong spark? (spark plug is new)
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Post by edfr on Feb 26, 2011 21:22:50 GMT -5
I would first check your Rectifier that is the one that charges your battery. Before the Stator I would check the Coil and CDI. The Coil wire make sure the Boot Cap that goes on your SPark plug is on tight. That part Screws into the Wire of the actual coil. So pull the Cap off the Spark Plug and hold the wire and Turn the whole cap Clockwise just like your screwing in a screw. Then also check the two wire that Plug into your coil from the CDI make sure they are not loose on the coil connecters. If all is good I would start checking the volatage coming from the CDI to the Coil and work backwards. The last would be the Stator. Lefty
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Post by djeeper on Feb 26, 2011 21:38:08 GMT -5
The CDI and Coil are brand new...
i will have to diagnose it tomorrow.
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Post by edfr on Feb 26, 2011 21:56:39 GMT -5
Have you adjusted your valves hard starting if everything else is good will cause hard starting due to being to tight. To tight and they will not close all the way and you will loose compression which results in hard starting.
If it is not charging right first check all the connections to your rectifier and battery and ground. It could be just your Rectifier that is going south and not charging. If not that then you can move on to the Stator which would be the last thing. Lefty
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Post by djeeper on Feb 26, 2011 22:25:59 GMT -5
i will try to open up the lash a little more. I will go as far as i can before they chatter too much
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Post by Bluefront on Feb 27, 2011 6:37:35 GMT -5
Your BBK may have raised the engine compression high enough that the starter is now turning too slow to start easily. You can get the battery checked at most battery places.....or try using jumpers attached to a car battery. I don't think I've ever seen a stronger starter available for a GY6. This may be another BBK problem not usually discussed (or admitted).
You know I've seen that strange volt-meter reading occur on my own scoots. IMO.....I think it has to do with the AC circuit (when the engine is running) and the DC circuit, sharing the same ground. This upsets a digital volt-meter. Try using an analog meter.....might get a stable reading. Works for me.
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Post by tomcas on Feb 27, 2011 7:29:53 GMT -5
Begin by setting the valves to .002 each and installing a new spark plug. If you installed a 72cc BBK then you should have installed or drilled out your main jet to a #85 when using a stock air cleaner or a bit larger with a free flow aftermarket air cleaner. The idle jet should be fine at the stock size if using a stock air cleaner provided it's at least a #30. It wouldn't hurt to remove the jets and blow them out or pass a real fine soft wire thru them.
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Post by djeeper on Feb 27, 2011 12:59:00 GMT -5
Begin by setting the valves to .002 each and installing a new spark plug. If you installed a 72cc BBK then you should have installed or drilled out your main jet to a #85 when using a stock air cleaner or a bit larger with a free flow aftermarket air cleaner. The idle jet should be fine at the stock size if using a stock air cleaner provided it's at least a #30. It wouldn't hurt to remove the jets and blow them out or pass a real fine soft wire thru them. .002 seems VERY tight. New spark plug is in. My high speed is a #92 right now, was a #88....but that has nothing to do with idle. The carb is pretty much brand new. The scooter runs great.... just doesnt start easily. I opened up the air box a little bit.
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Post by oscar on Feb 27, 2011 16:01:00 GMT -5
Wonder if your enricher is working at optimum. Did you try dribbling some gas into the mouth of the carb & letting her set for a minutes before cranking? My slide carb snowmobile was taking 8-10 pulls to get started. Did the gas in the carb thing after she sat for days & it started on the 1st pull! That never happened before. Idle was set way high & once I lowered idle to spec she now starts on 3 pulls.
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Post by Bong on Feb 27, 2011 16:22:13 GMT -5
Is the battery fully charged? I had a similar problem, when my battery got low It was hard to kick start as well. I know it should start with no battery at all but, mine did not. BTW the kick start is for emergencies!! you can grind down the gears and have future problems by only using the kicker Check the easy stuff first, it could save you time and money. 10 kicks is not easy in my book. Press the button and vrrooom now thats easy! IMHO
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Post by tomcas on Feb 27, 2011 16:35:32 GMT -5
Begin by setting the valves to .002 each and installing a new spark plug. If you installed a 72cc BBK then you should have installed or drilled out your main jet to a #85 when using a stock air cleaner or a bit larger with a free flow aftermarket air cleaner. The idle jet should be fine at the stock size if using a stock air cleaner provided it's at least a #30. It wouldn't hurt to remove the jets and blow them out or pass a real fine soft wire thru them. .002 seems VERY tight. It's per the book. www.livefromhawaii.com/geelyscooters/Servicemanual1.pdf#page=41&zoom=180,0,300
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Post by edfr on Feb 27, 2011 17:15:44 GMT -5
Yes, .002 is tight just about everyone adjusts them to .004 for Intake(valve that lets gas in). and .005 for the Exhaust( valve that lets the exhuast out). Reason the exhaust is set 1 mm more it that that is the one that will tighten up due to the extreme heat it takes.
Yea and its wrong, so much per the book. .005 mm = 0.000196" Lefty
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