Hello, I have this chinese scooter that I can't get spark out of. I've charged the battery, new plug and have a multi tester.
I also have a new CDI and ignition coil coming in the mail in 2 days. What I'm worried about is the stator. If my kill switch is bad can I test the stator? Can I unplug the kill switch then test the stator? How do I test the stator and does anyone have numbers I'm suppose to be looking for? Also when I it the starter button it clicks on the starter but doesn't turn over the motor. But I do have a kick starter on it so I should be able to test the stator right?
Any information is greatly appreciated! All I know is its a chinese brand and 2006 4 stroke.
You might need a new battery for starters; when they die, they may appear to charge but they don't hold voltage more than a few hours and they can't provide the amps for cranking a good engine. On most scooters however, this has no effect on spark unless you have a DC fired ignition (most are AC). What WILL affect both electric start and spark quality is the battery and engine grounds. Both must be clean and secure to their purpose and the frame. Verify the grounds before anything else.
The numbers mean the most to an electric start, but you should be able to at least verify whether or not it is working with the kick start. The kill wire is the Black wire with white stripe (B/W) on the CDI connector. This wire may be removed from the connector for testing purposes. If still no spark, we test the stator.
To put it simply, the wires we are interested in are the single ones with bullet connectors. There are 2 on a typical AC fired system; usually one is black with a red stripe (B/R)(or vice versa) and the other is blue with a yellow stripe (Bl/Y). The Bl/Y is the trigger coil. This should post a quick blip of about 2v DC (either polarity) once per revolution. A digital multimeter might not pick it up, use an analog meter or an auto tester light. The B/R is the CDI charge on an AC system from the exciter coil. It needs to push at least 15v AC cranking in order to build up enough charge in the CDI to fire the 120v pulse at the ignition coil to make a spark each revolution. 15v AC is a minimum; running, this lead can push over 120v itself, about 50v AC is typical.
I bought a new battery charger today and charged the battery for a couple hours but now it is dead. I'm going to get a new battery tomorrow and try what you said. I'm also going to take pics right now of the connectors and maybe you could direct me in the right wire colors to test? Sounds like I need to buy an auto test light.
Would the battery being shot like this not be able to turn the motor over even when I had it charged? I would think the starter motor isn't working right?
Wires damaged by pinching do need to be fixed. You can usually get away with taping each individual wire so the wire can't touch anything. Damage by cracking or actual breakage of the wire requires replacement. If the damage is limited to one cable, you can usually replace that cable (running one wire at a time) with some care and take your time. If the damage is wide spread, you may find it more reliable to just replace the whole harness. In all cases, you should determine what caused the damage and reroute cables so that the damage does not reoccur.
I'm good with mazes but I'm also color deficient (not color blind, but I do have a hard time identifying some colors), which makes this kind of wire sorting a special challenge for me. Your mixup does look mixed up, even if I don't know what they connect to. The reason is the green wires are grounds, and in both cases grounds (as best I can tell) are connected to hot leads. I can't think of what this wouldn't damage, including your battery and charger. If there's any doubt about which goes where, at minimum always make sure the greens are on the same side.
AFA the orphaned wires, again my color vision betrays me, but it looks possible. Left signal is an orange wire, right signal is a light blue wire, and each has a gree ground wire.
AFA the wires out of the stator, they're fine. Green=ground White=charging lead (AC) Yellow=lighting lead (head and tail)(AC)
On the CDI itself, refer to the chart: [ 1 2 ] [ 5 ] [ 3 4 ] [ 6 ]
1 = Trigger Coil (Bl/Y) 2 = Ignition Coil (B/Y) 3 = Ground or N/C (G) 4 = Ground or N/C (G) or External Rev Limiter (Pink?) 5 = Kill (B/W) 6 = Power (AC = Exciter coil (B/R), DC = +12v(B))
Colors are only standards which not all harnesses adhere to. e.g. your trigger coil feed doesn't look anything close to blue to me (R/W ?). This is okay, as long as the color at the CDI matches the the proper connection from the stator.
Headlights aren't fused, they should work whenever the engine is running and the headlight switch is on (if present). They are powered directly off the stator AC, yellow wire. Check the voltage of that wire coming out of the stator, and at the voltage regulator (under the nose). If both are good (between 7 and 15v AC, depending on rpm), check your connections to the switches, under the nose and the dash covers. Be on the lookout for broken wires too.
wereed: HOw can I start a thread?
Jun 1, 2013 10:55:49 GMT -5
wereed: or respond to a thread I started three years ago...
Jun 1, 2013 10:56:07 GMT -5
marklorenzi: I just bought one of the Fleetwoods. They look like a clone of the Honda XRM's they sell overseas. It is in transit now and I should get it this week. I will try to post my experience here. Call me the guinea pig hahaha.
Jun 2, 2013 20:29:11 GMT -5
flyangler: wereed, this forum is read only the new forum is on the banner above. Dan
Jun 5, 2013 7:35:29 GMT -5
silkyg1973: can someone please tell me how to post
Jun 10, 2013 12:08:46 GMT -5