Broken ignition switch turning all the way

[ancorder]

Today I had some trouble with my ignition switch on my Schwinn Graduate 150. It's got the trunk release built into the switch, but has never worked when turning clockwise; only the counter-clockwise release tripped the trunk. Anyway, today I had a hell of a time turning the scoot to the run position, and, forgetting that the keys are made out of just as flimsy a material as the scoots, I just turned harder. This bent my key but eventually got the switch where it needed to go.

When I go to my destination I tried to open the trunk and again had a hell of a time turning the cylinder, but eventually I tripped it. They key is looking marvelous by this point.

On the trip home I had to turn hard but the trunk still wouldn't open. Instead the cylinder starting rotating. Awesome. So now it turns all the way around, but if I put inward pressure on the key I can still switch from on to off to front wheel lock. So it's not unusable, just really irritating, and I suspect a major failuer waiting to happen.

So here's my question: Has anybody replaced the ignition switch with a more user-friendly unit? What I'd like is to take the trunk release out of the equation and mount that somewhere else. I'm sure this has been done, but my efforts at finding it in the forums have failed.

Here's what I want:

1. How to install a manual trunk release anywhere other than the ignition switch.

2. How to replace the ignition switch. I don't really even want a new ignition switch with a key. I would be perfectly happy if there was just a toggle switch, since the scoot is protected when it's parked. I assume this is possible and not terribly complicated, but I don't know how to do it.

Much thanks for anyone who can explain how to do this.

[iamverb]

The trunk release is usually operated by a cable - turning the key pulls the cable / opens the latch. You could fit any kind of lever you like to the end of the cable - I imagine a manual choke lever would work well.

There's (at least) two switches you'd need for the ignition - one for the run position (your basic on/off switch) and a second, momentary-on switch for the starter. Scoots with security systems and other accessories are going to be more complex, though, and be sure to use heavier-duty switches than actually called for - starting and ignition are very high-draw applications. Of course, IMO you just get a new ignition module and key set. Bummer that yours got tight and broke, but they're pretty cheap and easy to swap in (compared to re-routing and rewiring all the functions.)

[ancorder]

Thanks for the advice. Part of the reason I want to do a toggle switch is for the fun of it. I like tinkering on these things. I hadn't thought about the starting thing, though. I wonder if anyone can elaborate on that and how it could be done.

Fortunately my scooter doesn't have any other accessories; no alarm or anything, so it shouldn't be terribly complicated.

Cheers!

[gmoney]

There is only minimal voltage requirements for the key switch, the starter solenoid is what handles the high amp draw, not the switch. You could easily just run a toggle switch between the two leads coming off the starter solenoid but that would mean anyone could start up your scooter. The keyed switch is what activates the power from the ignition so that would also have to be wired up so it could be turned on from a toggle switch. I wouldn't recommend doing that as both a safety feature as well as preventing your scooter from being started by anyone. As far as operating the seat latch you could do that as someone else said by running a cable from the latch to where ever you want it.

Gary

[ancorder]

gmoney, thank you for the input. I think I will do some tearing down this weekend and take a look; you make it sound fairly simple.

As for security, I'm not worried about that. It's got a garage at home and a garage at work (and also a heavy bike cable around a concrete column; nobody else wanted the spot but it's perfect for me). Also, I figured I would leave the key switch mounted (but with no wires connecting to it) and hide the toggle switch in the little glove compartment. That way nobody would know that it didn't need a key.

Also, if anyone has a similar scoot (Schwinn Graduate, TNG Milano, Lance Vintage, etc.) and knows off the top of their head how many wires are on the connector for the ignition, that would be great. Would be nice if it was 2 (easy to install a switch for two wires!), but it's probably 5 or something. I'll take the panels off this weekend, I think, but if anyone has prior knowledge I could go ahead and order/buy what I'm going to need to do the job, and then actually get it all done on Saturday.

(Also, I just got a dremel. I'm itching to carve some panels. Thinking about installing a trunk release right under the front of the seat, maybe.)

[iamverb]

Oops! Gmoney's right - not so much power to the ignition on scoots. I've spent too much time under the hood of my junkar and wasn't thinking straight. My Frankenscoot's ignition was from a Roketa shaped like the graduate, if not otherwise very similar, and only had 3 wires attached.

[ancorder]

That makes me feel a little better.

So of those three wires, one should be from the battery, one should be a ground, and the other should go to the ignition coil? Or something? I'm trying to get this all put together in my head.

Your Frankenscoot is very similar to my Graduate and my Milano (which is a bit Franken-y itself).

[iamverb]

My Frankenscoot was actually a few different bikes at the start, so I won't promise that anything is the same as any other bike, but I think the 3 wires go to ground, the coil, and a relay that tied in with the starter relay and the cdi. If yours isn't that way, there's some pretty good wiring diagrams floating around the forum, if you search. Or I think Bashan's link in his tag has some of them all in one place, too - good places to start looking, anyways.