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Post by Bluefront on Jan 11, 2010 17:29:08 GMT -5
The nut is on there tight....it has defied all efforts to loosen it, including an air impact. So I bought a special tool made for the purpose by ZTR. This tool will install only one way...as shown. When I first tried to remove the nut, the tool slipped slightly at the two mount bolts. So I added two heavy 6mm washers. Tried again.....the tool looked to be bending, so I clamped it tightly to the steel variator with a small vice grip. (the tool is aluminum). Final try.....the aluminum teeth of the tool stripped completely, allowing the variator gear along with the vice-grip, to turn past what is left of the tool. See the photo. Bad news for sure. I'm fairly certain another special holder like this one will do the same thing.... Here's an edge view of the teeth.....hard to see, but it shows the path of the steel gear as it stripped the middle out of the holder teeth. I do know how to use tools, before anybody questions the technique. There were no directions with the tool....but none were necessary. It 'll only work one way. Not sure what to do next.....I'm pissed about this whole thing. The only thing I can think......the variator nut on this particular engine may have a left-hand thread. That would really piss me off.
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Post by cyberbeer65 on Jan 11, 2010 18:06:35 GMT -5
Put a torch on that nut a while, then try.
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Post by scosgt on Jan 11, 2010 19:12:21 GMT -5
WOW That sucks
You need to use a stronger impact wrench, air wrenches come in several power flavors.
Here is an old trick to hold the variator...
Get some standard clothesline. Remove the spark plug and stuff the clothesline into the hole, leaving a tail so you can pull it back out. NOW try to remove the nut, the piston will stop dead on the clothes line, without damaging anything.
But really, a good impact wrench will take it off, you just need to keep hitting it. And the 125 lb-ft lightweights probably won't work, you need the 250 pound model.
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Post by tank50 on Jan 11, 2010 19:33:52 GMT -5
it would be crazy. but if you do get to a tiny acetlyne torch like for solderin/brazin and heat it up like dude said, it HAS to come off.
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Post by Enviromoto on Jan 11, 2010 19:40:00 GMT -5
So to recap:
Impact gun didnt work ZTR tool broke
Dang man what kind of compressor and impact do you have? Has this variator ever been removed before? Stripped threads?
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Post by capturedbyrobots on Jan 11, 2010 20:11:42 GMT -5
I know just what you mean. On an older china scoot I was wrenching on, the nut would not come off. With my big compressor at 150 psi, I cranked and cranked, and it didn't budge. I couldn't torch the nut because I'd melt the plastic fan. Here's what I did. Take an angler grinder, and make a hard plunge cut into the side of the nut, on a flat spot. That will heat up the nut just enough to break it free with an impact. The nut will be fine, and you can even keep using it, I did and it's worked great still.
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Post by bagellmann on Jan 12, 2010 0:26:05 GMT -5
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Post by Bluefront on Jan 12, 2010 2:42:45 GMT -5
I got this scoot with 300 miles on it, so I doubt the nut has been off before.....the nut looks to be on straight, with no signs of cross-threading. My belt was starting to split, and I got some lighter weights....so I want to look at the variator at least, and change the weights, as well as install the new belt. (the belt is already off). I really want to avoid a torch because of the plastic fan, and I wanted to reuse the nut.....thought it might be a nylon lock-nut. Rope in the cylinder trick.....never tried that before. That sounds like it might lead to trouble. My compressor is small...will only go to 125lbs. The air wrench is a heavy duty Ingersoll-Rand from Snap-on. It has worked fine on much bigger nuts on autos....like a 36mm nut on side shafts. A small nut like this should be no problem. I also have an 18v electric impact (use it to remove car wheels)....totally useless on this nut. I really don't want to buy another compressor.....maybe a large portable air tank will do it. I could get the tank filled to 150lbs somewhere. I don't want to haul this scoot somewhere to have a single nut removed. No truck anymore. There's a cycle shop close by....maybe I could drive it there and have them loosen the nut and then put it back on not-so-tight. Damn...that special tool failure pisses me off. Thanks for all the ideas.
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Post by daniel50ccsunel on Jan 12, 2010 9:20:01 GMT -5
Mine was also very tight the first time. I used a nail puller and weged it between the teeth on the wheel and the casing. Then I took a breaker bar like you have in the above picture and sat behind the wheel with my feet on the center stand so I could pull on both the nail puller and the breaker bar. Took a little pulling but I got mine off that way.
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Post by Bluefront on Jan 12, 2010 9:59:00 GMT -5
Don't think I have a really big nail puller....you need something long/heavy to wedge the gear against the case. The breaker bar could probably move my house ......easily could go over 300lbs with me pulling on it. (I'm a big guy). I would worry about wedging the gear though. The case could break, or even the crankshaft could bend. I'll do a trip to Harbor Freight today.....might find something to work. They also have portable air tanks.
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Post by Enviromoto on Jan 12, 2010 10:02:46 GMT -5
I emailed ZTR maybe we can start making these out of hardened steel.
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Post by tortoise on Jan 12, 2010 13:37:17 GMT -5
I really want to avoid a torch because of the plastic fan, and I wanted to reuse the nut Another heat transfer method is to place the socket on an electric stove top element, then slip onto nut . . following reasonable safety precautions, of course. Might consider a "sacrifice" socket . . some pawn shops have bins full of used sockets.
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Post by als01seville on Jan 12, 2010 14:50:39 GMT -5
Just heat the nut up a little you don't have to get it red hot.
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Post by Bluefront on Jan 12, 2010 14:53:11 GMT -5
Finally some good news......I bought two different pry bars today. One even had an adjustable head. Still no go.....it's next to impossible to wedge the gear properly with anything I have. But the good news.....I found a brand new socket, and tried it with my compressor and impact wrench. Nut came right off. That slight extra clearance inside the used socket, lessened the effect of the impact (I suppose). And the threads on the crank and nut are partially screwed up.....don't have a reason for that. But I can clean the threads on the crank, and with a new nut, it should be ok. A steel tool like Enviromoto speaks about......should make that holder work like it should. That aluminum model was simply too soft. Hope he can get a new model tool......for all you guys without air tools.
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Post by diablo on Mar 5, 2010 13:17:45 GMT -5
could it have reverse threads ?
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Post by Bluefront on Mar 5, 2010 14:21:23 GMT -5
^^^^Well I suppose it could have.....but it didn't. It was just on there super-tight. I got it off ok. See my previous post.
I don't know how I would have loosened it without an air impact.......
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Post by tomcas on Mar 5, 2010 16:03:18 GMT -5
^^^^ I don't know how I would have loosened it without an air impact....... Easy, just hit the end of a long box end wrench sharply and repeatly with a hammer.
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Post by Bluefront on Mar 5, 2010 16:17:33 GMT -5
Sorry....not that easy. That was one of many unsuccessful methods I tried.
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Post by vilnit on Mar 6, 2010 15:33:21 GMT -5
left handed threads at least mine are for a fly 50cc scooter. they are not called reverse threads good idea though. an impact wrench will take it off it just may take a few seconds though. and you should not hit the box end wrench with a hammer it will cause to much torque on the bolt and may cause stress cracks on it.
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Post by ILLGotti on Mar 6, 2010 17:20:49 GMT -5
^^^^ I don't know how I would have loosened it without an air impact....... Easy, just hit the end of a long box end wrench sharply and repeatly with a hammer. Thats how I got the rear wheel nut off... Hit my forearm with the arm part of the hammer. ouch. SORE! lol
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