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Post by dukeofyork on May 8, 2009 20:49:17 GMT -5
This is my manual choke installation as promised. Parts used: 1. PHVA cable choke kit found here --> www.tsunamibike.com/catalog/item/4672354/6126949.htmMake sure the choke kit is same diameter as your enricher2. Choke lever found here --> www.af1racing.com/store/Scripts/prodView.asp?idproduct=4304any choke lever could work 3. Old bicycle's gear cable and housing Time to do it - differs, most time consuming part is taking the panels off. Now for the fun part: choke kit  lever  plunger connected with the cable  and then the cable housing  here you can see the manual and electric chokes side by side  electric choke out and the new manual choke goes in    Next is the lever. At first I had hard time taking the hand grip off but then after using the hot air blower gun it came right off   Here is the electric choke all apart. If you are handy you can convert it to manual and save money  Hope the pics are ok as i took them with my cell phone Now with the new manual choke my scooter is much happier as the choke is used only when needed. The best part is I can always go back to electric choke if I want to as I did not altered the carb itself *TheDukeofYork* |
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Post by dumbass on May 8, 2009 21:34:32 GMT -5
This is my manual choke installation as promised. Parts used: *TheDukeofYork* Damn that is clever. Wish the heck I'd thought of it. Great job both with the application and the picks. I owe you several bones for this one. And I would think a lot of others do too. Great job!!! |
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Post by ozark on May 8, 2009 22:14:15 GMT -5
Great Post!
You didn't mention what scoot you did the conversion on.
Will this also work on the stock 157QMJ?
Thanks for the photos and description.
I bookmarked this one and sent you a bone!
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Post by dukeofyork on May 8, 2009 22:18:38 GMT -5
Great Post!You didn't mention what scoot you did the conversion on. Will this also work on the stock 157QMJ? Thanks for the photos and description. I bookmarked this one and sent you a bone! I have the Vog 260 It should work on any carb with electric choke, scooter, atv or motorcycle just make sure the kit is same diameter as your choke. Not all but most electric chokes are same. Thanks for the bones |
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Post by Riddick79 on May 9, 2009 2:59:04 GMT -5
Good Job. This should be moved to the info section so it can stay on top. Thanks for sharing. +1 Bone for ya
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hsmith
Junior Dawg
Scooters are FUN
Posts: 11
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Post by hsmith on May 9, 2009 9:01:43 GMT -5
This is great, it should be standard on all scooters, seems pretty stright forward. I can see you did some hard research on the conversion parts. Guys like you makes makes scooter mods easy for the rest of us to understand how to do it right, Thanks for you labors
Great Job
Hsmith
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Post by JR on May 9, 2009 9:45:41 GMT -5
That was an awesome job and post great pictures with the phone, hey that's what I use and they do well. Nice part of using the phone is it's always in your pocket! What I like the most is the professional look of the choke right on the handle and the easy access. If my choke goes south I'm seriously considering this. Do you happen to have or could you take a picture of the cable coming off the choke handle? Was you able to hide it? A little confused on item number 3 the bicycle cable can you explain it to the old one here? LOL Again this looks great!! Have a bone!! JR  |
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Post by dukeofyork on May 9, 2009 11:28:20 GMT -5
Do you happen to have or could you take a picture of the cable coming off the choke handle? Was you able to hide it? It is under the handlebar cover along with the wires coming from the handlebar controls Item #3 is the cable you shift gears with on a bicycle but brake cable should work too. |
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Post by widehide on May 9, 2009 11:54:45 GMT -5
Great job, thanks for sharing, How did you determine the right adjustment, since the plunger is spring loaded? I might do this to my VOG, My wifes 54B I had already converted to choke off and on by using a switch to simply turn of the 12 V on/off to the enricer. Your job looks much more professional and accessable. Thanks  |
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Post by JR on May 9, 2009 13:10:24 GMT -5
OK Now it's coming together for me you supply your own cable and it looks like you just slid the cable right in the elbow provided with the kit. In the picture of parts it also looks like you have a threaded cable slack adjuster with a jam nut on it? Did you use it with the choke lever on the handle bar? These are helpful to get the excessive slack out of the cable sometimes. Did you put any glue or adhesive on the end of the cable that slid into the elbow? One last question the bicycle cable you used the end with the little round end piece on the cable, did it fit right into the brass plunger that goes into the carb? Again this is a dang good looking set up and have put both of these sites on my favorites! JR
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Post by dukeofyork on May 9, 2009 15:30:49 GMT -5
Great job, thanks for sharing, How did you determine the right adjustment, since the plunger is spring loaded? I might do this to my VOG, My wifes 54B I had already converted to choke off and on by using a switch to simply turn of the 12 V on/off to the enricer. Your job looks much more professional and accessable. Thanks To tell you the truth had to shorten the cable several times before I make it right. The way to do it in my case was trial and error! |
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Post by dukeofyork on May 9, 2009 15:57:03 GMT -5
OK Now it's coming together for me you supply your own cable and it looks like you just slid the cable right in the elbow provided with the kit. In the picture of parts it also looks like you have a threaded cable slack adjuster with a jam nut on it? Did you use it with the choke lever on the handle bar? These are helpful to get the excessive slack out of the cable sometimes. Did you put any glue or adhesive on the end of the cable that slid into the elbow? One last question the bicycle cable you used the end with the little round end piece on the cable, did it fit right into the brass plunger that goes into the carb? Again this is a dang good looking set up and have put both of these sites on my favorites! JR Yes I used the elbow provided with the kit. The elbow actually is for the handlebar end but I used it at the carburetor's end as my frame is kinda on the way. Actually my intake manifold is a little too long as I made it myself as my old one cracked last summer and this is why the frame is on the way. Without the elbow at the carb's end though will be better as with it there is too much restriction on the cable and for that one may need to use stronger spring! The adjuster also came in handy even though it only gives you like a half inch difference. For the cable's end, the original one was little too big but I took some material of with a file and it slid right into the plunger. For the other end of the cable I used some fishing crimps I had around like these  If there are fishermen out there the leading wire on the picture below is excellent for the job, strong and small in diameter  Also, I did not experiment but I think that if piece of lead is melted it could make a nice cable end. |
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Post by JR on May 9, 2009 16:50:43 GMT -5
Thanks man for the great responses as like a lot of things on these scooters you have to think outside the box, understood all you did and can install one now if needed. Again this looks very factory professionally installed. JR
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Post by jrizzo on May 15, 2010 22:53:52 GMT -5
Wow Dukeoyork, that is a really nice manual choke you have going on. Thanks for the idea! But I noticed in the photo of the choke kit that the needle isn't pictured. Is it the needle or plunger doing the work?
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Post by widehide on May 16, 2010 12:27:57 GMT -5
I was wondering the same, don't you need the needle to be effective in closing the enricher port?
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Post by dukeofyork on May 16, 2010 22:48:35 GMT -5
We discussed it in another forum and my opinion is that the needle is not needed and for the very same reason the plunger in the conversion kit is made and sold without a needle. The function of the needle in electric chokes is to gradually restrict the flow as the plunger slowly extends to actually block the hole. Blocking the hole shuts off the extra fuel and it is done by the plunger not the needle. In manual choke the needle will serve no purpose. There are probably plungers with needles out there that one can buy or I have seen a guy adapting the needle of his electric choke to the manual. However, als01seville recently converted to manual choke and reported that his engine gets flooded due to not having a needle, as the needle is regulating the flow. In my case I have no problems at all and I regulate the flow manually from the choke lever. It works for me and many others but if one needs a needle it is an easy fix. Here is another place for the necessary parts www.sip-scootershop.com/Products/C10262/Chokehebel+fur+Montage+am.aspxand here is a Russian website where you can see a guy adapting the needle to the plunger of the manual choke. What the guy is saying is- remove the rubber pad from the plunger, drill a small hole, insert the needle and solder it, drill same diameter hole as the needle in the rubber pad and insert it back into the plunger, and you have the plunger with a needle. begemoto.com/index.php?show_aux_page=38DukeofYork |
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Post by als01seville on May 17, 2010 0:04:16 GMT -5
In my opinion the needle is needed just like Duke mentioned it "gradually restricts" the fuel flow. It also restricts how much fuel comes in as well because the Needle is Not Completly out of the hole when the Enricher is Retracted. You probably could work it so you are easy on the Control Lever, but I tried and it just flooded my engine anyway and woud die. It would only work when it was completly closed off. Now BIG GUY from PowerScooters also mentioned they had problems with the choke on warm days and on top of that they had to Lean out the Air/Fuel Mixture to restrict all the fuel coming in. So just because it is sold without a needle does not mean the needle is not needed. Its a nice setup don't get me wrong but I believe they missed on the design by not having it with a needle. So I took my orginal Enricher and took the Plunger and Needle and Soldered the Pin in and now I need to Solder the Lead Ball inside the Plunger. I measured the Depth of the Choke area and it only needs like 3/16 of movement up and down. I also marked the Enricher when cold and watched it Extend out and it only extends out 3/16. I used a Bike Derailer Cable because the Lead Ball on one end is Just about perfect for the Control Lever I had to drill the Hole out on the Control Lever with a 3/16 drill and the ball fits real nice and snuge. The other end has a much small Lead Ball but still to big. I had to file it down to get it through the Elbow and into the Plunger Hole. To adjust you can Screw the Rubber Cap in or out on the Elbow to shorten or lengthen the Plunger Movement. Alleyoop Here is my setup:   |
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