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Post by dogmeat on Feb 16, 2009 14:01:13 GMT -5
Any idea what bike it was ment for? The shops around here absolutley refuse to sell me anything if I can't tell them what its for, and will actually hang up if you tell them a chinese scooter. F*ckers. Thats happend to me too.
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Post by usfmarine on Feb 16, 2009 14:09:01 GMT -5
Thanks a lot scooter3oy, I thought I was dead-set on a 30mm OKO cvk and you had to come along and show how much smaller a flatslide was.
Since you don't have the autochoke on the flatslide of course, how is starting the scooter? Does it take longer with the FS than the CV with the autochoke?
How are you going to solve the WOT bog, higher main jet?
What model # is that UNI?
Thanks!
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Post by scooter3oy on Feb 16, 2009 14:09:58 GMT -5
jamescell, i just brought the carb to the shop and told them i needed a cable....they only had 1 length, and it worked, although i think it's slightly shorter than my stock one, but i forgot to compare the 2 side by side dogmeat, i orderd the Oko from Scooter_Assassins via E-Bay UK, stores.ebay.co.uk/scooter-assassinsmost people are talking about 30mm CVs, but i read that a 30mm FS is much more carb than a 30mm CV, and might be too much for a lowly GY6...so i thought i'd be conservative and go for the 28mm i'm sure if one did more extensive engine mods, the 30mm FS would be preferred
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Post by scooter3oy on Feb 16, 2009 14:18:18 GMT -5
Any idea what bike it was ment for? The shops around here absolutley refuse to sell me anything if I can't tell them what its for, and will actually hang up if you tell them a chinese scooter. F*ckers. Thats happend to me too. and yeah, i'm done with the local shops...i only got the cable locally because i didn't want to wait to have one delivered....but i went to a bunch of local shops when looking for the jets for my 30mm CV, and i got fed up dealing with the lazy SOBs that seemed very disinteretested in helping me when i mentioned the jets were for a chinese scooter....screw them, i'll just buy everything online from now on
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Post by usfmarine on Feb 16, 2009 14:26:40 GMT -5
F*ckers. Thats happend to me too. and yeah, i'm done with the local shops...i only got the cable locally because i didn't want to wait to have one delivered....but i went to a bunch of local shops when looking for the jets for my 30mm CV, and i got fed up dealing with the lazy SOBs that seemed very disinteretested in helping me when i mentioned the jets were for a chinese scooter....screw them, i'll just buy everything online from now on Did the throttle cable have a brand/model # on it, any packaging that could help us know which one to buy?
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Post by scooter3oy on Feb 16, 2009 14:44:41 GMT -5
usfmarine, the carb has a manual choke on it, which i can easily reach with the seat up....the very first time i fired up using the new carb, i had to use the the choke to get it running....but once warmed, the engine obviously fired right up throughout the day without any choke.....but that was before i had fine tuned the idle and air/fuel mix screws, so i'm now curious to see if i can start the cold engine without using the choke
cable did not come with any packaging....i don't think there are many different types of cable ends, and the flatslide carbs are pretty common, so finding the right cable shouldn't be too hard...but knowing what length you need is pretty important....i'll measure my old one and let you know how long it is
Update: the stock cable was 85" from bead to bead, the housing is about 72"....i'd say the new one i installed with the FS is probably 75-80" bead to bead....long enough, but without much extra length
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Post by usfmarine on Feb 16, 2009 14:53:15 GMT -5
Thanks scooterboy. I definitely am interested in how the FS starts from cold without the use of the manual choke.
Is running a new throttle cable difficult? I imagine it's mostly about getting the plastic panels off of the front of the scooter.
Thanks for posting your experience with this flat slide, very informative.
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Post by dogmeat on Feb 16, 2009 15:26:14 GMT -5
Thanks for the info scooter3oy. So the only real difference you have found is improved throttle response, and no stupid auto-choke? Great post btw. I'm interested to see what the new cam works like.
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Post by jamescell on Feb 16, 2009 16:24:30 GMT -5
I'm interested to see what the new cam works like. I hope it works out better for him, the one I just put in is causing me nothing but trouble so far.
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Post by JR on Feb 18, 2009 1:46:07 GMT -5
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Post by usfmarine on Feb 18, 2009 2:02:53 GMT -5
I'm sure it'll go for around $300. Of course the MRP exhaust is nice, but I have a feeling I'll have to take a class in welding in order to get it to fit my scooter. I believe I'll also have to add a good 6-8 inches of pipe to it. Maybe I should go hang out where welders go to drink after work.
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Post by JR on Feb 18, 2009 2:10:50 GMT -5
I don't know I've seen these slip through for a bargain, might be worth putting on your watch list. JR
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Post by scooter3oy on Apr 6, 2009 9:28:22 GMT -5
i was interested in trying out the Dial-a-Jet system, but when i looked at my scoot to get an idea of how the install would go, i realized that I really had no room under the carb bowl to install the DAJ nipple fitting in one of the preferred locations, and my carb does not have a drain screw either…neither was i eager to drill into the side of the bowl to install the nipple fitting, so my first workaround idea was to possibly use a T-connector to split my fuel line and have a direct feed to the DAJ....i called and asked DAJ about this, but they advised against it because the pulsing pressure in the fuel line would not work well with the DAJ then i had the idea of using the Oko's existing "power-jet" fuel nipple for the DAJ, was willing to give it a shot, so i went ahead and ordered a DAJ kit (DJ-109) and the clean air snorkel during the install I had another idea to further integrate the DAJ system into the carb…i removed the actual "power-jet" from the carb, drilled it's port out a bit, and was then able to use the port for the DAJ's fuel injection tube...the threads in the port even matched those of the DAJ, so the install was super easy, and completely reversible as part of the normal DAJ tuning I knew I had to come down some main jet sizes, and through much trial and error, i eventually wound up at 120, down from 130 so how does did it work with the 28mm?....ehhhhh, while it reduced the bog some, it didn't completely eliminate it, which was one of the main reasons for trying it out then I stuck the 24mm flatslide in…i liked the way it behaved right away….the bog from WOT was gone….there may be a slight hesitation when I snap the throttle really wrist-breaking fast, but not the complete bog i got with the 28mm....it just feels like it fits the scoot better (at least in it's current state of simple mods), unlike the 28mm that kinda felt "too big" I figured I already had the DAJ, so I installed it on the 24mm the same way….surprisingly wound up dropping down to the stock 107 main, which is the smallest I had….the next size up I had is 115, and that was too big…I ordered a 110 & 112 and will experiment with those but the 24mm w/ the DAJ is running awesome ;D ....while i won't exaggerate the differences the DAJ made, it did seem to smooth the power delivery out, there are no flat spots, and it feels like the scoot has more punch from any position of the throttle...plus i figure the DAJ will give the flatslide carb some more flexibility, especially with the crazy 30 deg. temp swings we get here in houston...kind of like having the benefits of both CVs and flatslides and something else that is nice, but most likely only due to the warmer weather, the scoot is starting fine without using the choke ….when the weather was cooler, the completely cold engine refused to start without using choke for a few seconds Carb with stock "Power Jet" Carb with Power Jet replaced with Dial-a-Jet Inside Carb with Dial-a-Jet Carb w/ DAJ installed on scoot
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Post by gy6rocket on Apr 6, 2009 11:42:00 GMT -5
That is a completely awesome setup, looks high tech +1
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Post by YellowScooter on Apr 8, 2009 13:44:08 GMT -5
I'm sure it'll go for around $300. Of course the MRP exhaust is nice, but I have a feeling I'll have to take a class in welding in order to get it to fit my scooter. I believe I'll also have to add a good 6-8 inches of pipe to it. Maybe I should go hang out where welders go to drink after work. I'm in a welding degree prog at the comm college in NC. It's not near as hard as you're thinking. Goto the base hobby shop/garage, and use their MIG welder. Measure and tack on your exhaust mounts to your muffler. It's not hard at all.
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Post by jrinlv315 on Apr 9, 2009 17:33:04 GMT -5
I like the muffler for sale, it looks cool. But for the money, and being a convert too I would go out and get a mower muffler for $5 and have someone weld it up like GY6rocket did. I've been running the same set up for 5 days and have to say I love it. It's alittle louder but OK with me.
I want the 24 mm flatsilde and dial a jet too, I've been eyeing that set up for a little while. please let us know if you have any problems> Thanks JR +1
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Post by numbski on May 7, 2009 15:50:42 GMT -5
Where did you get your dial-a-jet? They seem to be hard to find!
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Post by scooter3oy on May 7, 2009 16:00:15 GMT -5
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Post by numbski on May 7, 2009 16:25:39 GMT -5
There's no purchase link or price...did you just call them?
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Post by kliff on May 7, 2009 17:27:07 GMT -5
Call, and ask for Lonn, he'll hook you up.
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Post by numbski on May 7, 2009 22:13:51 GMT -5
DJ-109?
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Post by scooter3oy on May 7, 2009 22:33:54 GMT -5
i assumed i had 14g stock rollers, so i decided to try 12g DP sliders, reading that they were pretty close to the sweet spot for the GY6....my RPMs went sky high....i was hitting 8k+ at around 50mph....didn't want to push any more past that was curious so eventually weighed my original rollers...turns out they're 17g, not 14g....this explains the dramatic change when dropping down to 12g sliders after experimenting with a variety of different weight combos, i finally settled on a combo of 14g sliders and 17g rollers, avg. 15.5g....i find this weight gives me good acceleration, and much more usable throttle...with some of the lighter weights i had to always be at 3/4 to full throttle to get anywhere, even when just wanting to cruise along....also with the RPMs not quite so high so often, i'm not screaming through the 'hood quite so loudly
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Post by scooter3oy on May 7, 2009 22:43:09 GMT -5
i installed a Vapor computer the other day (Generic kit #75-704)....nice to have an accurate speedo now...looks like my ch'eedo is OK to about 40-45 mph, but then starts reading way off....anywhere from 5-7mph too high install was fairly straightforward...i replaced one of my brake rotor bolts with one of the kit's bolts with an embedded magnet....wasn't getting close enough to the sensor, so had to stack a nut and another included magnet to take up the extra space not sure if i'll bother with installing the engine temp sensor...the included cable is about 6ft. too short ....not sure i want to spend $20+ for extensions to the cable to make it from the dash to the spark plug
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Post by scooter3oy on May 7, 2009 22:51:23 GMT -5
i also added some nitrogen shocks recently....mainly because i thought they looked cool ;D ....but scoot doesn't have the bounce it did before when hitting big bumps, more like a thump now, and they lowered the scoot by about 1"
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Post by scooter3oy on Jun 3, 2009 8:35:03 GMT -5
finally put in the A9 cam i had laying around for like 6 months it was a pretty simple straightforward mod....only took about an hour or two, which included removing and reinstalling some plastics....i had a couple of sets of instructions i found online (see links below)....funny, in another thread there was a discussion recently about how to reinstall the cam chain tensioner, mainly that the tension had to be taken out of it during the reinstall, or you could seriously damage the chain...i had just been made aware of that important tidbit (from an older post somewhere) just before i went through the process...good thing i did, because it sounds like a pretty crucial part of the process, and if i hadn't read the post i did, i may not have noticed/followed that part of the instructions i had....who says surfing the net at work isn't productive? process was basically remove valve cover, find TDC, remove chain tensioner, remove old cam, install new cam, reinstall chain tensioner, adjust valve lash important keys: 1) make sure you're at TDC for the install of the new cam 2) make sure the new cam is aligned properly 3) make sure you take the tension out of the chain tensioner when reinstalling 4) DO NOT LET THE CHAIN FALL BACK INTO THE CASE WHEN REMOVED FROM CAM, OR YOU WILL MOST LIKELY HAVE TO SPLIT YOUR CASE TO GET IT BACK OUT do i recommend it? sure...it's cheap and easy to install, and the results are truly noticeable Results: there may be some improvement in the low end, but the improvement in the mid to high is much more noticeable....hit 68 mph (Vapor & GPS verified, ~75 on the ch'eedo) the other day before i ran out of road...prior to A9, i would hit 60-62 on the same stretch of road....with some additional tweaking of carb and/or slider weights, i'm confident i can hit 70+ Here are links to the instructions i followed: NortheastBuggy.com InstructionsBuggyDepot.com Instructions
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Post by usfmarine on Jun 3, 2009 18:14:56 GMT -5
+1 for the good tidbits of wisdom
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Post by jrinlv315 on Jun 3, 2009 19:37:53 GMT -5
I love your whole set up. +1 for your inspiration, my girl will probably want to kill you, JR
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Post by jamescell on Jun 6, 2009 18:37:46 GMT -5
68mph! Nice! how high are you revving to get there? I cant find a level or straight road to see what my bike truely would do. I am only getting 62mph at 8000rpm, I really dont want to push it more, with you hitting 68mph I am curious about there being different gears in these gy6's.
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