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Post by kmesse on Aug 18, 2008 19:34:45 GMT -5
I'm trying to troubleshoot my signals and flashers that don't work. Turn signals and emergency flasher don't work. I checked all the wiring, all the connections are solid. I replaced the flasher, and that didn't help. I'll check both relays to make sure both work. I can't imagine it's the switch if neither switch works.
Question is what are the colors? I have black, green, grey. I connected black to another and blew the battery fuse, so I doubt I'd get far by guessing.
Another question, with a mirror with 3 wires going into 2 wires, any idea how I can tell what to hook up to get turn signals? I don't care about running lights although that'd be okay too.
I have the safety course this weekend, I HAVE to get this fixed. Thanks
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Post by unknownsoldier on Aug 18, 2008 19:56:11 GMT -5
Since nobody answered you, I thought I would try: In my schematic of a generic scooter, the turn signal wires are colored light blue. I think you could pipe another wire up to your mirrors, you see the orange-colored wires going to the lamp on the top and the lamp on the bottom? That's the unregulated voltage (increases with RPM) that also goes to the rear tail light and license plate. That would be the source for the 3rd wire. As far as color-matching... I couldn't be sure of any matches, so I made my schematic whatever colors I wanted!
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Post by kmesse on Aug 18, 2008 20:28:05 GMT -5
thanks. Is this all 12VAC? Is there a larger picture of this that is more readable? I need to know what pins to apply voltage to in order to test the relays, and how they work. Black was a bad choice.
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Post by unknownsoldier on Aug 18, 2008 22:20:08 GMT -5
I think you got to get the tank 150cc manual for this schematic from oregonvintage.com. If I was trouble shooting this, I would check any wires for power when I have it running, and check resistance to ground with the power off, to find the right ground wires. When you get a better schematic, the wire color-code numbers might be visible.
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Post by scootnsd on Aug 18, 2008 22:37:15 GMT -5
For the mirrors On mine from the mirror Right side Green to Green - Brown to Blue - Blue to Yellow Left Side Green to Green- Yellow to Yellow- Brown to Orange. Your colors may be completely different. To test voltage use a volt meter or test light. Use the frame for ground and check if voltage even gets to the relay You should see something. That will be easier that applying voltage to test the relay. Also tap the relays with a screwdriver with the switch on. I've seen relays stick
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Post by kmesse on Aug 19, 2008 6:32:01 GMT -5
I tapped the old relay. Now I have a new baby rattle. I'm assuming the reed was faulty and now broke off inside. But the new one still won't work either.
What are the odds that the wiring between the two are different? I don't have sick scoot in front of me but I'm pretty sure black on the harness is to the side, on the new one black is in the middle. I hope that's only a color difference, otherwise I've got to cutnsplice wires on the relay.
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Post by scootwes on Aug 19, 2008 17:18:03 GMT -5
Hey unknownsoldier, any chance of getting your schematic at higher res? It's hard to read as posted. Or email me the file itself? I think your diagram would help me fix a turn signal problem!
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Post by kmesse on Aug 19, 2008 19:04:45 GMT -5
readable schematic - this matches my strada pretty closely on wire colors. powerscooters.org/manuals/genericelectricalwiring1.pdfI took out the turn switch and the hazard switch. Both function by themselves as they should. The org wire (power from the flasher) is tied to the orange on the hazard sw as expected. But the gn/wt and the gn/bk are all tied together, I don't expect that! I don't understand. Any advice? I'm getting tired, I've got to get this resolved...
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mblas3
New Puppy Dawg
Posts: 2
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Post by mblas3 on Aug 20, 2008 10:20:34 GMT -5
kmesse,
From what it sounds your flasher is toast. As for the wiring the BLACK wire is 12+(Hot), the grey wire is the LOAD wire(to the lights) and the green is GROUND. You can you a 2 wire non-load rated flasher, just hook the BLACK wire to the 12+ terminial and the Grey wire to the L terminial.
Mark
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Post by kmesse on Aug 20, 2008 14:14:02 GMT -5
Thanks Matt.
I had a thought come on the way home. I had trouble earlier with the whole instrument panel going out, then coming back on, and one time I lost all electrical but rolled the scooter forward a bit or turned steering, and it came back. So I think the problem is vibration has caused something to cut into the wire harness, and it happens to ground the circuit I'm looking at.
Edit: I looked over the harness in the steering area, there is no sign of any cutting into the harness. There is a main instrument connector, and from there it branches into all the other places. I'll disconnect that, then check to see if it's shorted. At least that will determine if the short is above the connector or somewhere under the scooter.
Again, the main problem seems to be that both signal wires are shorted to ground. The flasher probably wasn't the problem in the first place, and my tap broke it. We'll see.
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Post by unknownsoldier on Aug 20, 2008 21:48:47 GMT -5
scootwes, did you go to that website and get that tank manual? Thanks, kmesse, that's a good copy. I will gladly share my copy, but I think there's clearer copies out there, because I'm not sure what the wire colors are, the words are blurry....But then again, it could be me....
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mblas3
New Puppy Dawg
Posts: 2
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Post by mblas3 on Aug 21, 2008 9:44:58 GMT -5
Take the upper instrument cover off and look there for a pinched wire. A lot of times I find the hand brake pinches the turn signal wires causing a short.
Also make sure your battery terminals are tight and the fuse is making good connection.
Mark
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Post by kmesse on Aug 21, 2008 13:35:01 GMT -5
Battery/fuse connections are all good. This is the only circuit that's shorted.
edit: I guess I'm doing this wrong?? The "short" was because I was using the continuity. The lights on the back of the scoot are low resistance connections, so they register a connection. So I measured resistance and sure enough the things aren't shorted. So I'm back to the beginning. Of course this is after I took off everything from front to back. I wish I knew what I was doing since the course is this weekend.
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Post by unknownsoldier on Aug 21, 2008 14:48:33 GMT -5
If I suspected a short I would check the harness wires by hand, doing one circuit at a time. Don't let yourself get frustrated or confused by completing each test one at a time before moving on, and scribbling notes. If you want, Email me, I'll give you my phone #, I will help you. I'm wasting away at home on worker's comp, waiting for the system..... unknownsoldiervacaville@yahoo.com.
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Post by kmesse on Aug 21, 2008 15:10:06 GMT -5
Thank you! I hate flying blind! I have the lecture part of the course tonight, so I won't be home til late. I'm taking tomorrow off since I HAVE to get this done. I'll email you.
Kevin
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Post by kmesse on Aug 22, 2008 12:00:08 GMT -5
Big juicy bone for the soldier for helping me troubleshoot. The difference between a hack and someone who knows what they're doing is about 10 hours of wild goose chases. Yes, it's the relay, and as I suspected it's wired differently. But nothing's shorted, I was using continuity without realizing the rear lights have 1.6 or so ohms across them... which is low enough to make it beep. To do that, I took all its clothes off and worked from front to back. Good time for a pdi on the frame though.
Thanks all. I'll figure out the new relay wiring. But the old one WAS dead.
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