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Post by scootdoggydog on Aug 4, 2008 22:45:25 GMT -5
all of the sudden my scoot started hesitating
i thought my carb needed to be cleaned but i took it off opened it up looked inside and it looked clean . but its still doing it
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Post by phaze on Aug 5, 2008 4:37:26 GMT -5
i compare the ride to a one ton p/u loaded hehe. im gonna look at mine 2nite.
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Post by scootdoggydog on Aug 5, 2008 20:28:19 GMT -5
it doesnt do it right away its kinda like the scoots gotta be warmed up at first and the faster i go the worse it gets and if i try to keep giving it gas it makes it worse and will eventually die something strange i noticed is when it hesitates the rpms drop sometimes down to 0 and if it comes back up before it dies i can give it some gas and it will go sometimes it starts right back up and sometimes i have to wait
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Post by phoenixxen on Aug 6, 2008 8:48:12 GMT -5
Have you checked your main diaphragm on your carb? Check for pinholes or tears...they will be very small so hold the diaphragm up to a bright light (sun).
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Post by rattlemeter on Aug 6, 2008 10:21:15 GMT -5
Sounds a little like the symptoms I had when my spark plug wire was messing up. I had made a repair to it to keep it from slipping off the spark plug. My repair included cutting the rubber boot off to get inside and later gluing the boot back on with high temperature RTV.
After that "fix" it started acting the way you're describing. I pulled the cut part of the boot back off and picked off all of the RTV I'd put on it and now it runs fine again.
Anyway, it sounds like it could be a spark problem in which case the CDI, coil, plug wire and spark plug could all be suspects.
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Post by scootdoggydog on Aug 6, 2008 23:33:27 GMT -5
i checked my spark plug cap and it was really loose so i got a new ignition coil and it was still happening so i pulled the plug and it doesn't look good like it was running really lean problably from my exhaust pipe cracking in half so i replaced it
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Post by scootdoggydog on Aug 13, 2008 13:33:26 GMT -5
its not the valve gaps or the cdi either i just checked both of those and i checked compression too 185 psi
if i check compression after every time this happens should i be getting the same about the same or different readings
should i check my compression after every time this happens
what else can i try?
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Post by rattlemeter on Aug 13, 2008 14:15:54 GMT -5
Have you checked the diaphragm as suggested earlier? It's pretty easy to get to. Just remove the two screws holding the cap on the top of the carb. A long spring will want to push the cap off as soon as both screws are loose. With the cap off, looking down at the carb, you'll see the diaphragm. Reach in the middle of it with your fingers, grasp the tab in the middle of the slide and pull the whole thing out. As suggested earlier, hold it up to the sun or hold a flashlight behind it and look for light peeking through.
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Post by scootdoggydog on Aug 13, 2008 19:04:08 GMT -5
i know i looked before but i just double checked and there are no holes, tears or anything
i dont know what else to do im thinking of trying a new carb
does this sound like good idea or is there anything cheaper i can try first?
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Post by shylark55 on Aug 13, 2008 20:47:52 GMT -5
What about the coil. I haven't priced 'em but surely cheaper than carb. Agreeing with rattlemeter, sounds like probable spark problem.
Good Luck.
Mike
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Post by scootdoggydog on Aug 13, 2008 20:55:54 GMT -5
yeah i tried a new coil
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Post by shylark55 on Aug 13, 2008 21:07:19 GMT -5
It sucks cause at this point you start trying everything. You said the plug had deposits on it. Has this happened to the stock plug since you re-installed it?
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Post by shylark55 on Aug 13, 2008 21:18:46 GMT -5
Hey dog, Just thought of this and it may be a stretch but what about the gas? Could you have gotten some bad gas somewhere? Or clogged filter?
just a thought.
Mike
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Post by scootdoggydog on Aug 13, 2008 21:24:07 GMT -5
its not the gas
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Post by earlwb on Aug 14, 2008 12:54:57 GMT -5
Sounds like something leaned the engine way out all of a sudden. I had the rubber intake boot to the carb from the air filter box come loose one day, and it did this too. The two wires that plugged into the ignition coil were really loose on mine after a while. I put on new bayonet ends. I have had more than one coil go bad on me before. If you put on a new coil, the spark plug wire is not screwed onto the spark plug boot, as they leave it loose so you can cut it off to length easily. Besides the vacuum lines, the intake manifold can crack and go bad. Especially the O-ring seal on the engine side of the manifold. I used some gasket sealer on mine. Many people have had problems with the manifold cracking up under the hose clamps for the carb. The vacuum operated fuel cut off...may be worth bypassing temporarily to ensure it isn't the culprit. Leave the fuel tank cap loose to see if the fuel tank vent is blocked. Sometimes the one way valve will stick (especially after overfilling sometimes). Also if fuel filled up the carbon canister, it can stop up the vent too. Finally, it doesn't hurt to try another CDI, just in case. Check all the wires and connector pins for the CDI, coil and stator pickup going to the CDI. Make sure the ground wires are grounded (like the wire off the coil for example).
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Post by preachp on Aug 17, 2008 7:26:04 GMT -5
Hi scootdoggydog, If that is what your plug looks like you are way too lean. Here is a list of plug reading pics. Notice the very lean reads. The problem with the white deposits is that they indcate there may be some burning of the piston top already. This is one of the biggest problems with a too lean mixture. www.4secondsflat.com/plug_chart.htmlHope this helps. Ride safe, ride long.
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Post by scootdoggydog on Aug 17, 2008 9:32:24 GMT -5
i think the reason it was running lean was because the exhaust pipe cracked and i was running with no muffler for a while
is it hard to open the engine to get a look at the piston
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Post by earlwb on Aug 17, 2008 9:49:01 GMT -5
Oh yeah, if it is going slower but the rpm's are higher, you're CVT belt has stretched and worn down. Check to ensure that the CVT air intake isn't clogged up and replace the belt. If the belt stretch and thinned out a lot, it can have the engine run up around max RPM's and then the engine can start missing and misfireing a lot as you have exceeded the maximums. usually things like the CDI, ignition coil, spark plug, and the engine can't go that fast so they start misbehaving.
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Post by scootdoggydog on Aug 17, 2008 19:49:58 GMT -5
actually its the opposite the rpms drop to 0 while i coast sometimes they bounce back up and down thats weird its not electric cause the speedo and the gas gauge dont do it
i have been using a lot of oil i think one of the gasket seals failed on me somewhere it looks like im going to have to crack open the engine and have a look
can somebody tell me what tools ill need and walk me through this
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Post by jackthefuzz on Aug 17, 2008 20:59:47 GMT -5
adjust the exhaust valve
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Post by scootdoggydog on Aug 18, 2008 20:26:35 GMT -5
I already did that and its at .005 how long does it take to burn a hole in the piston from running too lean and would you get the symptoms i have?
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Post by stiks on Aug 19, 2008 1:02:27 GMT -5
you didn't blow a hole in your piston.. if that was the case you wouldn't get compression cause the fuel/air would pass right through to the crankcase..have you checked for cracks in the rubber part of the intake the carb attaches to.i have had them tear right before the the metal bend starts and cause similar problems. could be small and take the engine time to warm up to get it a little flexible. 1 test would be to put the scoot on the center stand and wiggle the carb (barely flexing the intake) and see if it causes a similar problem.
2 times something like tis has happened to me and both times i had to wrap the top of the intake in duct tape to limp it home. my problem was caused by loose airbox screws so the airbox vibration tore the boot.
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Post by scootdoggydog on Aug 19, 2008 13:34:38 GMT -5
one thing i did to test the intake manifold was to spray it with carb cleaner and there was no effect on the idle speed when i did this so i ruled that out
im thinking its a piston or valve problem
it starts fine idles no problem but when i start my ride everything seems fine for a little while untill it just doesnt wanna go
ill be running at 35 or 40 mph at 5000 or 6000 rpms and all of the sudden they drop to zero on the tach but the speedo goes down much slower as i coast down to about 5mph before it dies but sometimes before it does it will start to go again and this will happen off and on untill i limp home sometimes it doesnt wanna start back up but after i let it sit for a while it will
so by the time i get around to checking anything its fine
the fact that i was constantly putting oil in and my spark plug looked really lean leads me to believe maybe i burned a small hole in the piston, the piston rings are bad or valve problems
could it be possible?
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Post by harrywr2 on Aug 19, 2008 15:21:32 GMT -5
Things to check
Running lean can be vacuum leak.
Cold running good , hot running bad = maybe enricher stuck Hot running good , cold running bad = maybe enricher not working at all
I always look for the $2 part
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Post by HarmZway on Aug 19, 2008 15:30:09 GMT -5
Could be that vacuum fuel pump. might try an electric one.
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Post by funderp47 on Aug 19, 2008 16:24:56 GMT -5
The compression test indicates you don't have a burnt or cracked piston, or burned valves. Also, if it was a burnt piston or ring sealing problems, it should smoke excessively.
A sticking valve can be a nightmare to troubleshoot, and I have been cursed with a few of those on mowers and tillers. They would pass a compression test, start and run fine for a while, then miss, sometimes die, spit, pop, and have me chasing ignition and carb problems.
Only after exhausting spark and fuel troubleshooting ideas, would a valve disassembly show the problem of a warped stem, stem deposits, or tightness in the valve guide. Sometimes it would open and close fine, sometimes not. But being human, I start with the easiest to do things first and really try to convince myself the problem is outside the engine.
I have discovered that if you are familiar with compression with a pull rope or a kick start, if you pay close attention, you can tell if a valve is not sealing and you have lost compression. It's easier to pull/kick. That has led me to check the valves for sticking in the past. Sometime you can tell the difference in the sound when using the electric starter.
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Post by scootdoggydog on Aug 20, 2008 18:10:50 GMT -5
The compression test indicates you don't have a burnt or cracked piston, or burned valves. Also, if it was a burnt piston or ring sealing problems, it should smoke excessively. A sticking valve can be a nightmare to troubleshoot, and I have been cursed with a few of those on mowers and tillers. They would pass a compression test, start and run fine for a while, then miss, sometimes die, spit, pop, and have me chasing ignition and carb problems. Only after exhausting spark and fuel troubleshooting ideas, would a valve disassembly show the problem of a warped stem, stem deposits, or tightness in the valve guide. Sometimes it would open and close fine, sometimes not. But being human, I start with the easiest to do things first and really try to convince myself the problem is outside the engine. I have discovered that if you are familiar with compression with a pull rope or a kick start, if you pay close attention, you can tell if a valve is not sealing and you have lost compression. It's easier to pull/kick. That has led me to check the valves for sticking in the past. Sometime you can tell the difference in the sound when using the electric starter. i think your on to something here i remember when adjusting my valves there was a little freeplay on one of them but not the other like if i pushed on the rocker arm i could lose the gap but the other one wouldnt budge another thing i noticed is that when i took off my intake manifold i could see my valve stem in there and it looked like deposits on it but im not sure how its supposed to look either i think it feels a little easier to kick but i dont know for sure about how its supposed to sound with electric start it sounds the same to me but next time im having issues starting ill be listening more carefully now i want to pull the valves out and check them so ill be doing some forum searching for a how to im trying seafoam and i think its helping a liittle
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Post by glen on Aug 20, 2008 22:50:32 GMT -5
I agree with harmsway I think your loosing your fuel feed to the carb mabey your fuel pump is failing or there is a problem with the fuel hoses.
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Post by scootdoggydog on Aug 21, 2008 0:43:24 GMT -5
I agree with harmsway I think your loosing your fuel feed to the carb mabey your fuel pump is failing or there is a problem with the fuel hoses. i checked that by installing all new fuel and vacuum lines and bypassing the petcock using gravity to get fuel to the carb
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Post by earlwb on Aug 21, 2008 12:34:16 GMT -5
Check your fuel tank vent and make sure it isn't obstructed, clogged or kinked or something. They have a one way valve that can get stuck from time to time too. especially if you accidentally overflow the fuel tank when you are filling it. If you still have the carbon canister on it, it may be worth checking out too.
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