Installing a REAL oil filter

Nice job. Very creative.
yeah I agree, not exactly a great place to put it. When you go to change the filter, it'll dribble old oil all over that nice clean motor.

I think one should be OK. But having the oil filter about level with the oil tank level in the engine would be best. Having to pump oil up high above the engine, would not be good, as it may cause a oil pressure drop. But it depends on how good the oil pump is.
When you look at automobile engines, the oil filter is sitting a little above the oil level in the oil pan on the engine. So I would assume automotive engineers had many years of perfection into why it is at a location like that. I would copy that oil filter position as much as possible.

I'm happy to see you're doing this, Ryan!

Thanks for posting all the pics, it'll help me when I get around to doing mine!


+1

So here is the rest:
After it warms up to a comfortable 37 deg remove the oil lines from the oil cooler and install the rest of the fittings. Don't forget to seal them.



Go ahead and remove the oil lines completely. Run the oil lines so that they won't rub on anything and stay away from the exhaust. I don't really have pictures of this because they are a pain to run and are all tucked away.



The above pic is where I moved the filter to there is enough room to get a container under it to catch any oil when changing the filter.

That large fitting I was talking about earlier is for the oil temp gauge. Mounting the filter where it is takes a little effort to get it to clear the storage compartment if you keep it which I do. I could of welded up a bracket and mounted it further back but I didn't want to weld on the frame.


Yes I know that the gauge says water on it I also have one that says oil but the temp range is wider on this on. I got this from the $1.00 box at a performance shop here.
Here is a side view of the filter, I like that you can see it from the side.

I ran my lines from supply side of engine to the in on the filter than the out side to the oil cooler and back to the retun on the engine. Don't forget to fill your oil back up with synthetic or your choice of oil. After your sure that you don't have any kinks and everything is away from the exhaust start it up and check for leaks.

When your sure that you fixed any leaks take it for a short ride around the block ( no pictures of this the wife refused too cold ) Check that those leaks are gone. After I have done this I think it's a good thing to have the oil volume is up from about .80 of a quart to almost 2 full quarts between the engine volume the filter and all the lines.
Here's the parts list: In my case all threads are 1/4 NPT
4- street elbows
4- 5/16 female barb fittings
2- 5/16 male barb fittings
1- tee ( if your putting on a gauge )
1-close nipple (the shortest they have needed for the tee )
10-12 ft 5/16 hose make sure its ok for oil
8- new crush washers
1-31/64 drill bit or similar to drill out the street elbow
I think that is everything but don't forget the filter you can use whatever you choose to or that you have room for. The only other addition I will make to this is to use the other center port on the filter housing for a oil pressure switch attached to a light to let me know if I lose pressure. Yes anidiot light. Also for everyone worried about the flow and pressure required to flow through the filter after all is said and done I remove the final retun line to the engine to check flow and there is the same amout as there is on the supply side of the engine.

Wow, nice job. Thanks for all the information too.

That's cool!

It looks in one of the pics like it's close to the starter motor - there won't be a problem with it hitting when the suspension compresses will there?

I'd hate for it to get damaged and leak while you're out on the road somewhere.


We have the same scooter! Mine's blue, too.

Ryan, and I never talk like ths but man, you rock!

Now do the same for the trans and you will become Dawg of the Year!

Just great info.

ryan,
Great post. Just started reading because someone provided the link. Can you update us on how this mod panned out for your over last year or so? Did you lengthen the oil change interval? Did the scooter run better?..,

Love the mod...

You can also reduce some pressure, if you use a small "H" bridge, to connect the in/out, acting like a bypass, which is always on. You could use a restricted jumper, or throw an actual valve on it, to manually bypass flow, if you suspect a problem.

Even cooler... Hook it up to the throttle-position... The more throttle you give it, the more it opens. (You don't want to force it through the filter at high speeds. That resistance, when the filter is blocked, will slow down your engine, and stress the manual pump.)

The oil-filter has a bypass inside, but it is designed for a larger pump, I am sure.

Even with a filter bypass, half will still flow through the filter, it if can. (Since the "H" would be two "T's", the flow would want to keep flowing in the direction it is traveling. The joint between has less resistance, but it is 90-deg off angle, making it harder to travel, unless the other path is blocked.)


Just a note about the sensor...

Chances are, the gauge was on sale, because it did not show the correct temperatures. (It may require a special sensor, not the stock sensor.)

If you use an oil-temp sensor on a water-temp gauge... you are not seeing the correct temperature. Both have separate resistance values. (You would have to relabel the numbers, to be the oil-numbers. It is not the gauge that reads the temp, it is the sensor. The gauge just translates the output.)

EG... Resistance on sensors, and results with the correct gauge.

R = 0 OHM (O-T = 600) (W-T = 300)
R = 50 OHM (O-T = 500) (W-T = 275)
R = 100 OHM (O-T = 400) (W-T = 250)
R = 150 OHM (O-T = 300) (W-T = 225)
R = 200 OHM (O-T = 200) (W-T = 200)
R = 250 OHM (O-T = 100) (W-T = 175)
R = 300 OHM (O-T = 0) (W-T = 150)
R = 350 OHM (OutOfRange) (W-T = 125)
R = 400 OHM (OutOfRange) (W-T = 100)
R = 450 OHM (OutOfRange) (W-T = 75)
R = 500 OHM (OutOfRange) (W-T = 50)
R = 550 OHM (OutOfRange) (W-T = 0)

Not a big problem... You just have to find any two temperatures on the dial, and confirm them. You can use an in-line resistor to lower the range, and also raise the range. To lower the range, a low-resistance resistor goes in-line on the power lead. To lower resistance, you have to feed it voltage, using a high resistance connected to power, on the resisted side.

The sensor is just a giant resistor that changed resistance with temperature, called a thermal-pot. The display gauge is just a cheap voltage meter, showing the output voltage from the thermal pot resistance.

Both can only measure 0 - 12v, so the pot determines the result of the range. That is why water will say 300F while oil says 600F, both are 12v. The (OutOfRange), is how your car computer sees a sensor that fails. Oil sensors are not as sensitive, and usually do not measure values below a certain temp. They use the high end on the display, since lower is irrelevant.

Nice idea. I was surprized the first time I changed the oil on my scoot that all it had for a filter is a little screen!

The magnet is a pretty good idea, I think I may of saw curved magnets before for that use. It'll work good as long as its not a aluminum part that fails. But thats why a real filter is a better idea then the screan they call a filter.