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Post by subascoot on Oct 18, 2008 12:16:25 GMT -5
My buddy has a 1PQ57QMJ engine that he is doing NOTHING with, and I can swap him some stuff and get it basically for nothing.
I have a 157QMJ engine in my SUNL and I heard that the "P" version is rated to be 1 or 1.5 more HP.
Do you know what would be involved in swapping them out?
I know that the cdi is different, but other than that...it should bolt right up.....right?
Just curious...
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Post by harrywr2 on Oct 18, 2008 12:36:27 GMT -5
There is more variation is engine mounts then one would think. If the engine mounts are the same then probably unbolting the existing engine and bolting in the new engine. Stator might be different requiring a different regulator/rectifier.
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Post by subascoot on Oct 18, 2008 13:35:59 GMT -5
I KNEW you would be one of the the first to respond .....you are extremely helpful to many people on here...thanks for that. I was just thinking of a possible project over the winter.
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Post by Kaos on Oct 18, 2008 17:27:10 GMT -5
The "P" engine has slightly larger valves, otherwise its identical from what i have been able to find. I investigated this because i have the "P" engine myself.
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Post by abscooters on Oct 18, 2008 17:27:20 GMT -5
It should bolt right up, and you can always take the stator & magneto out of your current motor
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Post by jake318 on Oct 18, 2008 19:54:31 GMT -5
I have P motor the valve spring seats are shallower therefore you cannot put in a high lift cam because the valve springs bottom out . Also if you look, the P motor(cylinder) is 13mm? longer. jake
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Post by subascoot on Oct 18, 2008 21:23:05 GMT -5
I wonder if I swapped them out...would I feel the 1 to 1.5hp difference??...if thats even a true figure.
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Post by Kaos on Oct 18, 2008 21:50:44 GMT -5
Just my 2 cents but it seems like it would be high on work with little return. There is nothing wrong with the engine you have. De-restrict it with a free flowing intake system, re-jet and de-restrict the exhaust. Variator weights come in to the picture but i would do one mod at a time starting with a UNI air filter and re-jet the carb.
All that work swapping engines for 1-2HP just isnt worth it IMO when you can gain more power with "bolt on" parts.
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Post by harrywr2 on Oct 18, 2008 22:01:24 GMT -5
Ahh..if the engine mounts match and the stator matches then it's 4 bolts to swap an engine.
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Post by subascoot on Oct 18, 2008 22:23:59 GMT -5
Actually.....my scoot is running INCREDIBLE now thanks to the help of everyone on this board.
I am running a 38 slow, 125 main, uni 2 stage pod filter, unrestricted exhaust, and now she goes like a bat out of hell right up to 63MPH...I gained exactly 10mph for $130 bucks.
Its just that I have this engine at my fingertips if I want it... and it might be a cool experiment to see if I can feel a difference between the two.....something to do when the snow starts falling here...which may be very soon.
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Post by Kaos on Oct 18, 2008 23:46:44 GMT -5
Ahh..if the engine mounts match and the stator matches then it's 4 bolts to swap an engine. technically yes this is true but there are other things involved. whats your point?
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Post by harrywr2 on Oct 19, 2008 7:22:14 GMT -5
Ahh..if the engine mounts match and the stator matches then it's 4 bolts to swap an engine. technically yes this is true but there are other things involved. whats your point? It's a pretty simple procedure to drop an engine.
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Post by schoei1 on Oct 19, 2008 8:28:52 GMT -5
If you can get a full engine that works fine, I would definitely make the trade with your friend. You will now have a backup engine with all the parts. Which one you use first will probably not make much difference, but you never know until you run it. By making the trade, all the parts that you may have to replace at some point, will be at your finger tips. Plus, you save a lot of money and waiting time. I have done this before (actually twice) and the swap was not difficult, if you decide to go that way. But, you should definitely make the trade, no matter which engine you use after the trade. Here is my thread when I installed a new engines: scootdawg.proboards59.com/index.cgi?board=talk&action=display&thread=11305
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Post by subascoot on Oct 19, 2008 10:49:15 GMT -5
Thank you SO MUCH for that link schoei1 ....it will be extremely helpful. Thats what I was thinking....why not grab a "almost" free, almost new engine if its available, it will come in extremely useful at some point whether I throw it on now just for fun or down the line because of necessity if and when I blow up the current one.
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Post by mx5tc on Oct 19, 2008 12:36:52 GMT -5
If you measure carefully (as Jake318 suggested above); I think you'll find that the P engine is taller from the deck on the engine case to the top of the cylinder head. I think most, if not all, of this height difference is in the P cylinder head (taller head, smoother port entries, possibly larger valves as well). In theory, you could swap the cylinder, cylinder studs (longer on P motor) and cylinder head from the P engine onto your current engine and get a performance gain from the improved head. However, as Harry noted, it only takes 4 bolts to drop the engine and swing arm assembly and pull the entire motor.
My opinion is that the P swap would generate a noticeable power increase because of the increased airflow of the P head. The bolt on changes you have already made (exhaust, intake, re-jetting) will further compliment the increased airflow of the P head.
If I had a P motor lying around, I'd take the upcoming winter to pull the head, get the spring seats machined deeper to support a high lift cam (a machine shop will do this for a modest charge), do a simple port cleanup with a dremel/die grinder, install & degree in a new high lift, modest overlap cam (stock cam was about zero overlap), verify piston to valve clearances and then swap the modded P motor into the scoot in time for spring riding.
YMMV,
Mitch
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Post by subascoot on Oct 19, 2008 22:48:30 GMT -5
Thanks Mitch....I think thats enough to keep me busy all winter!!
Luckily, I have a good machinist friend that will help me with this, if I decide to go that route.
I Just ordered a racing CDI and coil from autotech355 on ebay and it specifically says it WILL NOT work for a "P" engine, only the 157QMJ, it will burn out if used on the P engine.
If I go with the P engine, I quess I will have to order the larger, more expensive one from autotech355, when I get to that point.
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Post by Doug in San Diego on Aug 2, 2011 13:27:52 GMT -5
Since this is 3 years old I was wondering if there was any more info out there
I too have a 157QMJ motor, and I am looking at putting in a new "P" engine.
Does it indeed just drop right in?
Are the electrics different?
Exhaust location, use the same Carb etc
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Post by sprocket on Aug 2, 2011 15:02:47 GMT -5
The head is taller than the non 'P.'.. the cam chain is longer, the valve springs are different the cam is slightly more aggressive the value heads are larger the seats are shallower and the ports are larger... Attachments:
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Post by Doug in San Diego on Aug 2, 2011 15:54:08 GMT -5
I get that the head is taller etc
But the question is, will it fit in my scooter? And will the electronics be compatible?
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Post by sprocket on Aug 2, 2011 17:00:04 GMT -5
Doug.. as far as I know the cases are the same with the same mounts...only the heads are different.
The electronics should be fine as well ...they are standard GY6
HOWEVER.. the new engine could have a different stator than your scooter and that could be a problem, but it is likely an 8 pole
If your current engine has an 8 pole you are OK, if it is a 6 pole them you will need to change the rectifier regulator likely...
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Post by Doug in San Diego on Aug 3, 2011 9:44:49 GMT -5
Thanks Sprocket
My current is a 12 pole
So I guess we'll see. I'm really struggling with this decision
Part of me wants to fix this engine, but I just cant figure out the whirring noise
Part of me wants to start from scratch, do a proper break-in, put on a prodigy variator,UNI, new jets, my exhaust, then LEAVE IT ALONE.
I really don't want to take my engine apart anymore.
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Post by sprocket on Aug 3, 2011 10:03:56 GMT -5
If you have a 12 pole stator then you have a 3 phase system and you will need to use your own stator on the new engine.. flywheel too...so they match your regulator/rectifier
I like the LEAVE IT ALONE part.. I wish more people would do that.. much less problems
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Post by Trancebear on Oct 29, 2011 19:21:56 GMT -5
Thanks for the info Sprocket. I just got me a 1P57QMJ engine brand new with a cracked rear case damaged in shipping on a new trike. Got it off eBay for $75 shipped. My current engine have leaky valve seals and piston rings so I am going to buy a new case half for the broken part and stick this bad little sucker in my scooter. I will mos def take care in seeing what stater I have and plan accordingly. I have a lot of free time so this sounding like a lot of work for little return just doesn't matter with me. Can you think of something I may be missing? I was just going to spend $150 to fix the oil burning issue to bring it back to stock to sell it. Now I may keep it if it goes better than my stock engine. Picture of the new motor
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Post by sprocket on Oct 30, 2011 11:08:39 GMT -5
If you have a drum rear brake you could use the case like that... it appears that the calliper mount is broken off the new engine...it doesn't matter for a drum brake set-up.. save a few bucks...
The shock mount looks fine
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Post by dyoung1167 on Oct 30, 2011 11:45:24 GMT -5
the broken piece is the shock mount, at least on mine.
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Post by sprocket on Oct 30, 2011 11:50:55 GMT -5
dyoung1167 you are right it is the shock mount...easy fix with an aluminum tig or mig welder...
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Post by Premier Scooters on Oct 30, 2011 14:07:07 GMT -5
You could just find a way to use the other shock mount.
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Post by Trancebear on Oct 30, 2011 14:28:51 GMT -5
My scooter has dual shocks right now, would it be an issue to go to 1?
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Post by sprocket on Oct 30, 2011 16:21:44 GMT -5
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Post by Trancebear on Oct 30, 2011 23:31:41 GMT -5
I found a replacement case new from some vendors for around $60. Is it really hard to split the case and do this?
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