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Post by scootdoggydog on Aug 15, 2008 22:34:49 GMT -5
how and why
do you do all your scooters this way
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Post by odie2ooo on Aug 15, 2008 23:15:24 GMT -5
I broke mine in kinda in the middle. Not real hard but not exactly easy either
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Post by leo on Aug 16, 2008 0:28:22 GMT -5
i broke mine in on the drive home. i would wind it out as fast as she would run then close the throttle to coast down to 30 mph or so then repeat. 77 miles. my break-in was unintentional, i had a slow jet problem with the carb.
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Post by mortar235 on Aug 16, 2008 0:40:36 GMT -5
what exactly is no break-in? Just let it sit in the box? ;D
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Post by aafd on Aug 16, 2008 3:34:36 GMT -5
We followed the manual.
KC
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Post by tp555 on Aug 16, 2008 5:46:06 GMT -5
Taking it easy and looking for issues if any pop up.Mine ran really hot at first.I blame the clogged up exhaust for that.It settled down after 300 miles.
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Post by irish44395 on Aug 16, 2008 6:31:34 GMT -5
I changed my oil after the frist 1000 k the book said frist oil after 300 my dealer told me wrong and I didn't read it until I had a 1000 k on it havn't done the gear oil yet thinking about checking up on that
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Post by earlwb on Aug 16, 2008 7:13:35 GMT -5
I subscribe to the easy by the book method. Basically keeping it under a certain speed (like 30mph for a 150) for 500 miles, and vary the speed often and ease off the throttle frequently to suck more oil up into the top end to lube the cylinder.
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Post by preachp on Aug 16, 2008 7:35:53 GMT -5
Hi All, The bearings in these motors are roller bearings they are not the flat tri metal bearings we find in our automitve engines. They reqwuire no seating time and the only thing that is really being friction fitted are the rings. Those have to set quickly or they will not set at all. The hard break-in works best for that. Also using a conventional oil during hte first few hundred miles goes a long way to helping the engine "fit" itself. The initial specs on any engine will be tight to allow for all the parts to seat with each other, and while this does not require a hard breakin the same will not hurt it either. The rings on the other hand DO require that they be seated well in the first few miles of operation. Rdie safe, ride long.
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Post by Karl on Aug 16, 2008 9:38:58 GMT -5
I have a 2-stroke 50cc engine. I recently (after only 50 miles) upgraded to a 70cc kit. I used the motoman hard break in method for the stock engine. When I tore it down, there was zero blow-by and the crown of the piston was silver except for a diamond shaped carbon build up near the center and right below the spark plug.
The piston skirt had no scuffing and the engine head had no carbon build up either. I use Bardahl 2stroke racing oil in it.
Karl
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Post by WarrenS on Aug 16, 2008 9:41:57 GMT -5
I took it easy because my scooters have the more modern engines with plain bearings.
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Post by kaintuckdave on Aug 16, 2008 9:48:32 GMT -5
I guess I did the 'hard' break in. I pretty much just rode it like I was gonna ride it but tried to vary rpm's a lot. Lot's of WOT before hills and on straights to see how fast it would go but not sustained. The only thing I'd pay more attention to the next time around is making sure I let it idle a good while before each ride (I always do this to this day, just not sure I did it long enough to start), and the letting it coast way down in speed after a WOT. Again, I did that I'm sure, just didn't pay enough attention to sustain that activity maybe, not sure.
This topic is like octane, many good points in several directions.
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Post by yarddogbbq on Aug 16, 2008 13:57:05 GMT -5
changed the fluids before riding, the hardest breakin would be not changing fluids, im sure the bike will age prematurely or not get you back home. i wish they wouldnt even put a mile on the engine with that cheap stuff they ship with. so, yarddog does things "different" make up your own jokes. 10w30 walmart full synthetic to begin with in the engine. and gear box also. (good for helix good for me good for yp250 good for me.) Full strength low tox antifreeze (PG not EG) 100% not a drop of water. you have to use litmus or test strips to test, not a bulb type tester. im gonna change every year or two, so no litmus needed. dot 4 synthetic valvoline brake fluid. i got great brakes. 26psi front 28 psi back no passenger so that was ok. 2 ounces of marvel mystery oil in gasoline (for that upper lube earlwb was talking about. the only thing i have to say about hard riding is possibly knocking the tension out of the rings due to the extreme heat build up in the beginning of engines life i know combustion pressure pushes the rings agains the cylinder walls and everything has to be cooled some it is a fact that engines build up some extra heat in the beginning, two cycle engines have upper cylinder lubrication going on during break in.) and one ounce in engine oil. some history, the mmo was so good in the heat and cold of oklahoma in the oil fields that i have used it since 1976. does it get cold in oklahoma?? how about frost on a bare dry hiway. (saw it, and car started just great) cold in those drilling rig towers also. yarddogs breakin, i hopped on the bali and headed for the hills and valleys, up, down, accelerate under load decent descent speed, curves in and accelerate out. watched that temp gauge closely. finally settled on valvoline dura blend. because of cost and test results. here www.animegame.com/cars/Oil%20Tests.pdfnever tried valvoline for long, so i am not pushing it, i have used it. bike will die with it. or live with it now after seeing the bike magazine test result. yarddog
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Post by mustang64 on Aug 16, 2008 14:00:37 GMT -5
I did everything exactly as my Yamaha manual said except bringing it in to them for 600 mi check up. I did all that myself and it didn't cost anything
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Post by IrnBru on Aug 16, 2008 16:57:41 GMT -5
I rode it just like I drive every new car I get...normally. No need for driving very slow or extra hard to break-in a new engine in my opinon. I just use them normally and change the oil a little more often for the first few miles to clean things out. Hasn't failed me yet and I think some of this break-in stuff goes a little to the extreme.
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Post by stiks on Aug 16, 2008 17:31:10 GMT -5
changed out crap shipping oil with straight 30w, ride close to WOT with a let off here and there for 300 mi. change out oil again and put in 10w30 ride normal till 1000 mi change oil out and put in a good brand synthetic. my 50cc 4-stroke break in.
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Post by halosfan06 on Aug 16, 2008 21:47:30 GMT -5
Ditto with Kaintuckdave and volunteer. In So Cal, there's really nowhere you can ride around at less than 20 MPH. I ran it to the occasional WOT and about 70-80% WOT most of the way. The only thing different is that I varied the speed a lot for the first 500 miles. I'm sure I probably didn't do it perfectly, but then again, who knows.
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Post by phaze on Aug 17, 2008 19:40:09 GMT -5
i take it easy for a couple hours let her cool heat her up vary the rpms , change oil to 20 w 50 downhill she hits 65 full tuck its not fast but its fun to hold it wot its just wrong lol
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Post by pukame2 on Aug 18, 2008 4:19:34 GMT -5
Run 'em hard, service 'em to last.
That's the way I was taught, and its worked for me. (50yrs)
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Post by Aerostudent on Aug 18, 2008 15:47:22 GMT -5
Motoman for the first 20miles or so, then normally but varying the throttle when I can. Turned out pretty good for me. Change the oil often!!!
Aero
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Post by hurtcow on Aug 18, 2008 17:27:47 GMT -5
I've got 135 miles on my yy250t and have been doing the 'motoman' style break-in. There's a very steep hill near my house, known locally by the bike/skateboard kids as 'Dead Man's Hill'. 1st time I rode it I went straight there, and went up and down it about 8 times. I've been conscious of not holding the throttle steadily, rather I take off at WOT, and when traffic's at a steady speed I goose it, let it coast, repeat. It's already noticeably loosened up.
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Post by TommyHasAScooter on Feb 21, 2010 22:17:03 GMT -5
I've got 135 miles on my yy250t and have been doing the 'motoman' style break-in. There's a very steep hill near my house, known locally by the bike/skateboard kids as 'Dead Man's Hill'. 1st time I rode it I went straight there, and went up and down it about 8 times. I've been conscious of not holding the throttle steadily, rather I take off at WOT, and when traffic's at a steady speed I goose it, let it coast, repeat. It's already noticeably loosened up. That pretty much how I did mine too, I read the motoman and got the basic idea, then since mine had the CVT there wasn't a whole lot of high/low throttling, I just found a long steep road near my house and went up and down for the first 25 miles or so then changed my oil and plug.
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nobody
New Puppy Dawg
Posts: 0
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Post by nobody on Feb 21, 2010 22:57:36 GMT -5
Motorman all the way. In fact, changed oil & gear @ 20 miles, then oil at 200, 400, then 1,000, 1,500, now at 2,000. The 250 holds so little oil, why not change it when it gets black?
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Post by SylvreKat on Feb 22, 2010 0:01:47 GMT -5
Okay, I don't even know what a "motoman" is. I went by the book, varied my speed and no WOT. Of course, the first dozen-some miles were around my private neighbourhood as I wasn't street-legal yet (scooter was, I was not). My Harley friend drove it to where he works, with me driving my Taurus behind. Then I got some higher-speed runs (okay, around 45ish). He drove it harder going home. At 600 miles, I took it back to Van Wall and they did a full first-service on it (something more than merely changing the oil, which they explained and which I no longer remember a year later). I still haven't WOTed it yet. Go ahead, say it--I'm a speed-weenie. Heck, I haven't gotten to drive it for I'm not sure how many months. I'm also a icky-streets- and cold-weenie. >'Kat
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Post by flyangler on Feb 22, 2010 5:15:21 GMT -5
Kat, at 600 mi. they changed your break-in oil to a full synthetic oil which is recomended by Piaggio/Aprilia and then you're good to go for thousands of mi. because your bike has a real oil filter.
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Post by CCProf on Feb 22, 2010 7:12:55 GMT -5
I followed the manual
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Post by yoster on Feb 24, 2010 17:19:34 GMT -5
Isn't the "motoman" and "hard break in" the same thing really? Well anyway, I did the "motoman," then after those 20 miles, just drove it like I normally would. I think in the future when I get my next new scooter, I'm just going to ride it like it's already broke in. So much opinions around break-in, but at least everyone agrees on ONE thing, and that is that it's not good to hold one steady rpm for a long time. When we purchased our boat in 2002 (Four Winns Horizon 220), the dealer told us the best way to break it in is to go out single skiing or tubing. The hard punch to pull out skiers (or extreme tubers ) was good for the engine, and a lot better than cruising around at one speed all day. I think they went by the "hard break in" or "motoman" standards. That boat ran like a top until we sold it summer before last.
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