Won't accelerate more than a few mph - Daelim

razzmahtazz - I have googled your issue just to see what came up and it seems that your scooter is equiped with a throttle position sensor that seems to go bad often on your model. I know in a car the TPS is usually associated to the cruise control. I'm not quite sure how the TPS is used on your scooter. My suggestion is to google your issue and dig a bit more before you hand your bike over to shop that basically wants your money. Maybe some else in the dawg pound knows of this issue or even had a personal experience with this.

Welcome to the forum and hang tight. I'm sure help will be arriving soon!

Thanks for the replies all.

Cooch - To be honest, the extent of my expertise stops at the belt and the weights. I learned how to change the belt in case of emergency, and I've changed the weights out a few times to achieve top speed But that's about all. I wouldn't know how to spot what could be wrong with the variator, or the clutch.

Scooteritch - I've googled like a fiend. Unfortunately it seems that not many people have Daelims, and even less want to work on them.

Skuttadawg - The weights are tip top. They are actually brand new too. My old ones were getting worn and had flat spots and I changed them out. And yes, the one drawback to being a female.. shady service shops. This place is the ONLY place in my area that will touch bikes, and they seemed like they were just itching to screw with me. I purchased a service manual online for my make and model, and it is super detailed, I even offered it up to them if it'd help if they were unfamiliar with the bike. Didn't help. They didn't want to hear it.

I managed to take a video - it's not as good as I'd hope to have it. Everytime I uploaded it, the sound was gone. And my friend is on the bike and had no idea what she was doing lol. I'll try and take a better video.

www.youtube.com/watch?v=WUEfRx3LwZk

Your s-2 250 has a KYMCO engine and drive train. Any KYMCO dealer should be able to help you out.

has the clutch every been sanded/ serviced ?

cause that clutch is glazed or wasted.

you can glazed them enough where there is plenty of meat left on the clutch face but wont catch.

he would have to have 15000 miles on that thing for the clutch to be gone

Awesome.. thanks for the replies.

Tastroman - Unfortunately the closest Kymco dealer is 2 hours away. I'd take the haul, but I don't have a truck to get it there.

Wile - I pulled the clutch off, but I don't have an attachment for my impact wrench to get that flat nut off. I'm going to hit up the hardware store and see about getting a strap wrench and I should be able to use my pipe wrench. (Hopefully anyway...)

I'll check out the springs and snap a few pics.

You do not need an IMPACT WRENCH i take mine off with a Big Adjustable wrench my hands and KNEE Here is how you do it:
Put it on the floor, Put your knee on one side and your other hand right across from your knee and LEAN and push down. Then with your other hand loosen the NUT and take it off and EASE up because it has the spring on it and WHOLA. To put it back sameo sameo.
Wile

How many miles are on your scooter?


And Hello from a fellow Daelim rider.

$300, you got a bargain. The clutch assembly from a KYMCO Grand Vista should fit. I've found the engine parts to be interchangeable minus the exhaust. If you ever need body parts there is an online shop based in Korea where you can get what ever you want. The owner speaks good English and will ship world wide. My S-2 just flipped 18,000 miles. The only trouble I've had out of it is a faulty CDI fixed under warranty and a malfunctioning secondary air filter. If your S-2 ever develops a backfire, check the secondary air filter 1st.
Well, at least we know there a still 2 S-2's on the road here in the USA.

Yes, to get the plate off you see the "C" clips holding the 3 Studs, get a screwdriver and fit it in the Curve part of the "C" clip and twist the screwdriver to pull them out then you can take the Plate off. The Pads are badly worn so is the inside of the BELL.

You can squirt a little bit of oil in where the Pads rotate on the STUDs and with a screw driver work the Pads in and out. That may get you going until you get a new Clutch assembley WORTH A SHOT. Just don't get oil on the pads and or BELL. You can also take a little sandpaper and go around inside the bell where the Pads grab it. Also a little grease on the SLEEVE that the pulley slides in and out of just a little on the SLITS it has that a PIN slides back and forth on.
Like this:
WIle

Hi razzmahtazz,

Looks like you are definitely going to need some new clutch parts.

Looking at your photos you can see that:

(1) The central mounting hole on the clutch drive plate is missing its "flats" ; the hole should NOT be round.


The hole should have two opposing "flats" as shown in Wile's photo, below:



These "flats" match up with the "flats" on the driven face shaft (the large threaded shaft) and keep the clutch drive plate from rotating relative to the shaft (see photo below). Note ALL your power transmission to the rear wheel goes through this single interface.





(2) There has been extreme high pressure/rpm slippage at this joint. The friction-generated heat from this slippage appears to have actually melted the two metal surfaces at this interface. Note the massive heat discoloration surrounding the hole on the clutch drive plate in the photo below.



Chances are high that any parts that were in contact with this hot region are ruined. You might be able to save the clutch shoes and clutch bell, but everything else should be thrown out, as either their metallurgical properties have been altered , they have been deformed, or they have suffered pyrolysis (bumpers, seals, grease).

Our recommendation would be to replace the entire clutch/driven pulley assembly as a unit, otherwise you will just be experiencing more problems down the road.

Hope this helps,
onilegion <><