final drive gears

Leo, can't answer the questions but this might help.http://www.partsforscooters.com/All-Parts/250cc-Transmission-assembly_2

Here is what you will see once you take the CLutch and the Back plate off.
Lefty

I do believe your right AN IMPACT would come in handy
Lefty

i found i need a spring compressor to remove the clutch from the bike.
i thought about a couple of C-clamps but decided they would gouge the clutch pulley.
i will probably also need a 41mm wrench to remove the clutch nut.
i will need to purchase both of these items before i can go any further with disassembly.

the problem is definitely in the final drive somewhere.
apparently my bike has 3 gears in the final drive.
one connected to the clutch, one connected to the wheel, and a countershaft that connects the two.
i have 2 questions:
first, will i be better off buying a new engine? new scoot?
second, if i don't get a new scoot or engine then i need to find out whether i can replace the entire final drive and if not just exactly where is the problem?

by messinmg around with the bike the only thing i can say for sure is that there is a problem in the final drive somewhere.
the wheel axle bearings appear tight, there is no end play in the axle.
the clutch bearings appear tight also, no play at all in the clutch.
spinning the tire in the direction of rotation gives the usual "noise".
spinning it backwards gives a "gear" type of noise like the gear teeth aren't meshing properly.
i've also noticed a "rattling" type of noise, almost like end play in the countershaft.
i say the countershaft because the wheel nor the clutch have any end play.
i've been giving some thought about getting a new scoot, a 244, and keeping the other one as a "spare".

i haven't really had my ears to the ground on this because i've been trying to isolate where the problem is.
yes, if i can find the entire unit then i will replace it.
i found i cannot replace just the CVT part because it is molded into the bottom half of the crankcase

i already have a new belt but it's a half inch shorter than the original.
apparently my bike takes the 1000mm belt.
the problem with the larger belt is the CVT case isn't really designed for it.
the larger belt will ride so high in the pulleys to where the CVT case will shave off one side of the belt.
i noticed that this will happen around the the variator and clutch.
i've been thinking about filing these parts of the CVT case to prevent belt shaving.
this probably explains why some of these scoots are harder on belts than others.

my final drive makes a squealing noise above about 20-30 mph, and its getting worse.
the last time i rode it i wasn't sure it was going to get me home

no.

the final drive noise is present with and without the rear wheel installed.
it's definitely somewhere inside the final drive

link doesn't work.

although i am not sure what the problem is i am reasonably sure the clutch and rear axle bearings are in great shape, no slop at all.
the clutch itself hardly makes any noise when i spin it.

the rear axle is a different story.
with the caliper and engine mount screws removed i can feel the slightest motion between the swingarm plate and the engine when i rotate the tire.
whether this is a cause for concern i do not know.

if i were to guess at what the problem is i would say it's the countershaft bearings. what else can explain the noise in one direction and not the other? loose bearings would also explain the intermittent rattling type of noise i sometimes hear. in other words the countershaft is sliding back and forth hitting the CVT case.
like i said, it's just a guess on my part. i won't know for sure until i get into it.

anyway . . .
i will be checking for parts availability within the next few days, hopefully i can find what i need at a reasonable price.

and it's been perfect riding weather too.

the big question now is how do i get the bearing out?
i wonder if i got a big enough screw or bolt and screw it into the bearing if i can just pull it out?
i can't get to both sides of the bearing.
hmmm . . .
any ideas?

started scraping the old gasket off and going over the innards of the final drive.
discovered that the gear on the clutch shaft is chewed up, apparently from pieces of the destroyed countershaft bearing.
the bearing that failed has "japan" stamped on it.

chinese scoot with japanese parts, what do you make of that?

the way this bearing was chewed up leaves me in amazement i ever made it the 5 miles from my sisters house.
it's a needle bearing and the pieces i was able to rake out of the hole were long, short, bent (probably worn).
there is just a hint of the race left, the upper part of the bearing case was broken off.
pieces of the bearing were apparently swirling around in the lube and got ground to powder by the gears ruining the clutch shaft gear.

there is a new car dealership next door that services cars.
i'm going to see if they will pop out the old bearing for me.

my next big thing will be to see if i can get a plate with the clutch shaft installed in it.
if i can't then i have to remove the old shaft, and by the way it's made it looks like i will have to ruin the bearing getting it out.

a thought just occurred to me.
since the bearing that failed had japan stamped on it i wonder if it might be available at NAPA?
i'll let you know.

got the clutch shaft out of the plate.
put the clutch nut on the shaft so i wouldn't booger up the threads and smacked it a couple of times with a hammer and out it came along with the bearing it rides in.

when i first started this job i was really dreading it because i had no idea what i was getting in to, but it seems like it's going pretty well.
i might be able to fix this thing a lot cheaper than i thought.

got the bearing off of the clutch shaft.
used a block of wood with a hole in it the size of the clutch nut, a crescent wrench, and a hammer.
sat the wood on the pavement, threaded the nut onto the shaft to protect the threads.
placed the nut in the hole with the shaft upright and opened the crescent to span across the bearing.
by using the crescent as a driver and to hold the shaft i smacked it about 3 or 4 times with the hammer and off it came.
i ordered a clutch bearing just in case i couldn't use the old one or i couldn't get it off.
anyway the project is coming along nicely, got all the gasket material off both surfaces.
the chinese used some kind of rubbery type of gasket sealer on the CVT side of the gasket.

i'm going to get a variator too.
the seals in my old one popped out and slung the bearing grease out and wore the bearing sleeve.
not sure if i should use the old variator or not.
about 70 buck at PFS. i already have the rollers and ramp plate.
might even go with lighter rollers, my scoot is pretty doggy on the low end and going up hills.

heh, i'm in luck.
the local autozone has a free loaner tool sign in its window.
you actually pay for the tool but get your money back when you return it.
got the blind hole bearing puller for 171 bucks, had it less than 30 minutes then returned it.
i removed BOTH of the needle bearings.
the bad one and the other one on the opposite side of the countershaft.
i'm going to replace both of them even though one of them looks and feels good.
patiently waiting for the parts from PFS.

got the tranny back together.
slowly worked the clutchshaft bearing onto the shaft.
took about 20 minutes to peck it on.
same with inserting the shaft into the tranny cover.
thank god that gasket was exrta tough.
i had to remove that cover 3 times before i got everything turning smoothly.
i greased the bearings and gears with the same stuff i've been using in my variator.

noticed a caveat.
putting the bike on the centerstand and the front tire on the ground will allow you to add about 10% more lube.
puting the back tire on the ground will allow almost all of the fluid to drain.

got my variator from scrappydogscooters today.

got the clutch installed.
variator and belt is installed.

i finally found some gauges but i'm gonna have to whack on the tach and gas gauge.
i don't know how to hook up the tach and i plan on using the gas gauge for a temp gauge.
i will take the bike out in about another 6 or so hours for a 50 mile ride just to see how everything goes.