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Topic: JiaJue Executive ( Bali 150 ) Tweaks & Mods (Read 2,558 times)

کíŋ
Great Big Dawg

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JiaJue Executive ( Bali 150 ) Tweaks & Mods
« Thread Started on Jun 17, 2008, 9:51am »

INTRO

I recently acquired a JiaJue 150cc Executive ( Bali 150 ) in Magic Black. The first thing I noticed aside from it's brilliant amount of storage was it's smooth and comfortable ride. The windscreen is awesome - it's a new experience being able to ride around with my visor up and she feels very solid on the road.

With that said, the weight - not so good!

The power to weight ratio leaves the 150cc engine wanting. 90kph in ideal conditions? (...and even then it takes a long time to wind it out that far).

This baby needs modding, so on with the show...

More about this model:

Marketing Name: JiaJue Executive 150
Model: JiaJue JJ150T-5
Manufacturer: Kaitong JiaJue Motorcycle Manufacturing Co.
Engine: GY6 157QMJ 150cc
Assembled: 04/2008

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« Last Edit: Jun 25, 2008, 3:28am by کíŋ »

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Re: JiaJue Executive Tweaks & Mods
« Reply #1 on Jun 17, 2008, 9:53am »

DISASSEMBLY

I decided to do this one on the work-bench as I also had plans with a spraycan

Geez, getting into this one was like trying to break into fort-knox, every panel has to come off!

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Re: JiaJue Executive Tweaks & Mods
« Reply #2 on Jun 17, 2008, 9:55am »

HOSES

Before removing the engine, I decided to do away with the plethora of hoses, vacuum, fuel and emissions control devices.

The emissions control devices on this model consists of a vacuum operated petcock on the side of a charcoal canister. The intake is via a reed valve exhaust block on the base of the head. The hose to the canister is subject to high temperatures and because it's vacuum operated, it shares the limited resources from the manifold.

The 10 litre fuel tank is situated on the floor and utilises a vacuum operated fuel pump to get the fuel up to the carby. This'll have to stay but the rubber fuel & vacuum hoses are your typical Chinese rubbish that'll deteriorate as you watch. I decided to replace them with good quality SAE grade Automotive 1/4" for fuel & 3/16" for vacuum.

By reducing the components that have to share the intake manifold's vacuum hose, the fuel pump should operate perfectly even when the engine is at high rpm's where there's less vacuum.

I also changed the Fuel Filter with a good quality Clear 1/4" Filter purchased from Repco. All these improvements should help increase fuel flow and reliability.

NOTE: Better to test the fuel flow now with a running engine rather than wondering what went wrong later.

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Re: JiaJue Executive Tweaks & Mods
« Reply #3 on Jun 17, 2008, 9:58am »

ENGINE REMOVAL

With all the panels removed, access to the engine was much better. After the wheels, brakes and swingarm were removed it was just a matter of unplugging the magneto / auto-choke cables and removing the starter wire from the relay. I clamped off the fuel hose, removed the throttle cable / UNI-Filter and found that the carby + manifold came off easily.

The engine was held in place by the rear shock and a 12mm bolt through the frame on rubber mounts. With less than 25kg's of weight, the engine was gently lowered to the floor and simply carried to the work bench.

I was quite impressed by the solid but heavy frame, the factory's put a lot of work into this model!

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Re: JiaJue Executive Tweaks & Mods
« Reply #4 on Jun 17, 2008, 10:00am »

BRAKE CALIPERS & FORKS

With front and rear dual piston disc brakes (Brembo copies), the stopping power of the executive is great. Even the brake levers have adjustment screws to fine tune the depth of the plunger. Great access to the brake fluid reservoirs too!

Now the colour - it's gotta be red so off they came...

Hated the silver forks (and wheels), give me polished chrome or black anyday. Rather than removing the fork from the lower triple tree which requires unscrewing the top of the forks, I decided to mask and paint while still attached.

For both the red & black paints, I chose a Septone Drum and Brake caliper enamel (in spray cans).

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Re: JiaJue Executive Tweaks & Mods
« Reply #5 on Jun 17, 2008, 10:02am »

WHEELS

After applying a liberal amount of paint stripper, I was surprised at how well the rough finish of the bare metal was masked by the original silver paint. It would've been a massive amount of work to polish these so I decided to just do to the edges of the rims, then mask the rest and spray with black enamel.

Still, they turned out quite nicely in the end!

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Re: JiaJue Executive Tweaks & Mods
« Reply #6 on Jun 17, 2008, 10:04am »

ON THE BENCH

So much easier getting at all the good bits. Standard fittings included an NGK spark plug, Gates Powerlink VE 835 20 Kevlar Belt and 13 gram rollers.

Now how could I resist not blinging-up that intake fan with some left-over red brake caliper enamel

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Re: JiaJue Executive Tweaks & Mods
« Reply #7 on Jun 17, 2008, 10:06am »

OFF WITH HER HEAD

After draining the engine oil and removing the emissions control chrome tube from the reed block at the base of the head, the valve cover was easily removed. This exposed the Cam, Valves and Rocker Assembly.

I removed the 12mm nuts on the 4 head bolts and slid off the Valve Rocker assembly. The Cam chain tensioner on top of the head had to be removed to allow enough slack to tilt up the A8 Cam and lift off the Cam chain.

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Re: JiaJue Executive Tweaks & Mods
« Reply #8 on Jun 17, 2008, 10:08am »

OUT WITH HER BORE

With a bit of side to side rocking, the head slid off gently leaving the cam chain in place on the lower runner. This exposed the head gasket and piston. Both the head and 57.4mm Piston were a bit scorched after 130k's of riding.

The head gasket came off easily and the lower cam chain runner was removed. A bit more side to side rocking and the Bore was slid up over the Piston. Even the base gasket was in good condition but wasn't going to be re-used with the new bore.

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Re: JiaJue Executive Tweaks & Mods
« Reply #9 on Jun 17, 2008, 10:10am »

OUT WITH THE OLD, IN WITH THE NEW

Does it fit?

The standard head on the JiaJue is a big Valve and mates up nicely with a 57mm bore. The outer taper is 4mm wide and would easily mate up to a 59mm Bore so with that in mind, I decided to go for it and try it with the new 61mm Bore.

I cleaned the head up with some goof off, then a buffing dremel and some Autosol.

I port matched the intake manifold spacer down to a taper and roughed up the intake port with a diamond tip on the dremel. The new intake manifold was then fitted and it mated up nicely. The new 30mm CVK Carby was attached via the rubber joiner and the angle checked.

The most important thing was to check that the collar of the Bore fitted in easily to the engine base. So without the gasket and a bit of light machine oil, I tried rocking the Bore into place.

After a bit of cleaning up with the dremel on both surfaces, it slid in with very little effort.

On to the 61mm Piston...

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Re: JiaJue Executive Tweaks & Mods
« Reply #10 on Jun 17, 2008, 10:12am »

BORE IT UP

The inner edge of the Bore's collar is tapered and allowes the ringed-up Piston to be inserted at a slight angle. This closes up the individual ring and is repeated as the piston progresses down onto the bore until all the rings are in.

NOTE: The piston has a marking "IN" which represents "intake" meaning "this side up"!

It's a good idea at this stage to insert the Circlip on the right ride of the piston so that later the gudgeon pin butts up against it. The pin is then inserted 1/4 of the way just to hold it in place but still allow room for the crank shaft rod to mate up.

With the base gasket in place and the crank shaft rod fully extended, the cam chain is pulled through the chamber while the bore is lined up with piston attached. Once the crank shaft rod is in-line with the gudgeon pin, it can be pushed through and the 2nd circlip attached.

After confirming that the circlips have locked in place and none of the rings became exposed, the bore's collar can be slid completely into the engine base.

If you hold the Cam Chain on a finger, the flywheel can spin around to check that the piston moves without obstruction.

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Re: JiaJue Executive Tweaks & Mods
« Reply #11 on Jun 17, 2008, 10:14am »

HEAD ON IN

Time to mate up the Head to the Bore. With the lower Cam chain runner and metal head gasket in place, the Head is slid down while the Cam chain is pulled through it's chamber.

The 2 side bolts will help hold it to the bore while adjustments are made.

Finding top dead centre on the fly wheel markings is important so that the standard A8 Cam can be mated up with the chain correctly. The larger of the 3 centre holes on it's sprocket should be dead centre with the 2 smaller holes in line with the lip of the head. It's hard to judge without any compression so inserting the spark plug can create a bit of vacuum. When you feel the piston about to drop, check that both the markings on the flywheel (at the arrow tip below the TR line) and the 3 cam sprocket holes.

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Re: JiaJue Executive Tweaks & Mods
« Reply #12 on Jun 17, 2008, 10:16am »

VALVE CLEARANCE

With the Valve Rocker Arm assembly in place and the head bolts tightened down, the cam chain tensioner can be refitted (reverse order to removal).

NOTE: Insert a flat blade screwdriver into the top of the cam chain tensioner and wind it up as you lower it into it's chamber, then slowly release it to allow the tension to adjust itself. Hold it in place and tighten the 2 8mm bolts.

I set both the Intake and exhaust Valves to .004" (102mm) while the piston is at TDC (Top Dead Center).

To adjust the Valves, undo the 9mm lock nut and insert a .004" feeler gauge between the Valve and adjuster screw. Finger tighten the screw onto feeler gauge and tighten the lock nut. The .004" gauge should be able to be removed without scratching and re-inerted without too much force. Also check that a .005" feeler won't fit after a revolution of the piston and return to top dead center (3 holes lined up on Cam Sprocket). Re-adjust if necessary then repeat the same procedure for the exhaust valve, again at .004".

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Re: JiaJue Executive Tweaks & Mods
« Reply #13 on Jun 17, 2008, 10:17am »

NO MORE EMISSIONS

The chromed tube that sits in front of the engine is not just decoration. It connects the intake reed block at the base of the head to the intake exhaust port on the left side of the head.

With the intention to remove the emission control devices to conserve engine vacuum pressure, the reed block intake must be blocked off correctly to prevent engine backfires on rapid deceleration. I used a 10mm rubber bung (purchased from Clark Rubber) coated in Locktite 596 High temp Silicone together with a ring clamp to hold the outer edge in place.

To prevent resonation, for the connecting chromed tube I used 2x 8mm Grub screws coated in Locktite 596 High temp Silicone screwed firmly into either end.

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Re: JiaJue Executive Tweaks & Mods
« Reply #14 on Jun 17, 2008, 10:20am »

CRUSH GASKET, ROLLERS & GEARS

Fitted a new exhaust crush gasket with 1 side coated in Locktite 596 High temp Silicone to hold it in place.

The standard rollers are 13gram on a 115 ramp plate and there's a definite transition from low to high gear that can be felt. I wanted to eliminate that and from past experience found that 10gram rollers did the trick for me. Both me (gave up smoking, took up eating) and the bike are bit heavier than what I'm used to so it'll be interesting to see if the sweet spot has changed.

Changing the rollers was easy, I used a 17mm rattle gun to remove the variator nut.

NOTE: I also decided to change the standard 13t / 40t final gears up to 16t / 38t. The process is covered here for a Gear Change.

Swapped the rollers and re-assembled the variator and cover.

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« Last Edit: Jun 17, 2008, 10:23am by کíŋ »

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Re: JiaJue Executive Tweaks & Mods
« Reply #15 on Jun 17, 2008, 10:22am »

ENGINE REFIT

I refitted the plastic enclosure around the head of the engine which helps circulate cool air from the newly blinged red intake fan around the head of the engine. The hot air is then vented down beside the exhaust header pipe.

Prior to re-fitting the engine to the frame, I decided to give all the metal and rubber surfaces a coat of CRC 808 Silicone spray to help prevent corrosion.

The engine was easy to refit, the 12mm bolt pushed through the lined up engine easily and the rear shocky re-attached to hold up the rear of the engine. I blue locktighted the 14mm nut to the 12mm bolt and put a nylon nut on the end of the shocky bolt.

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Re: JiaJue Executive Tweaks & Mods
« Reply #16 on Jun 17, 2008, 10:26am »

CARBY, UNI FILTER & OIL CATCH CAN

The new 30mm Intake Manifold only has 1 vacuum nipple and that's all that was required for the fuel pump. No "T" pieces were needed.

I also decided to introduce an Oil Catch Can to collect blow-by from the engine head vent and piped the condensed vapour into the air-intake hose between the 100mm 45 degree cut UNI-Filter with 40mm neck and new 30mm CVK carby. Any residual oil would then combust rather than clogging the air filter.

With the new 30mm CVK Carby in place, I attached the 1/4" fuel hose, 3/16" vacuum hose and throttle cable.

To finish up, I connected the Auto-Choke cable, Magneto plug, pickup wires and starter cable to the relay.

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Re: JiaJue Executive Tweaks & Mods
« Reply #17 on Jun 17, 2008, 10:27am »

WHEELS & BRAKES

The newly painted Brake Calipers and Wheels had a few days to cure and were ready to be be re-assembled. The swingarm went on easily and I blue locktighted the 24mm axle nut. The only time consuming part was bleeding the brakes.

These chromed rear shocks better suited the scooter from an aesthetic point of view but I still have my eye on on a set of rebound adjustable nitrogen shocks from NCY.

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Re: JiaJue Executive Tweaks & Mods
« Reply #18 on Jun 17, 2008, 10:29am »

EXHAUST

After coating the header pipe mounting plate in a little Locktite 596 high temp silicone, I bolted her in firmly with a bit of blue locktite on the acorn nuts. You may have noticed the Carbon Fiber muffler was fitted prior to commencing these mods for a quick test run.

You should hear the deep note it produces, especially when it resonates through this frame.

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Re: JiaJue Executive Tweaks & Mods
« Reply #19 on Jun 17, 2008, 10:30am »

HOW TO LOOK GOOD NAKED

In a way, I kind of like the look of this scooter without all the fairings but then what would be the use of that when it offers so much storage space, especially under the seat.

The bling turned out great, especially the red and black. Good to see all the silver gone.

Now on to the initial run-in:

I used 750cc's of Valvoline XLD Premium 20w-50 Mineral Based Engine Oil.

To properly seat the rings, I went with a medium to hard run in for the first 30k's.

Briefly:
5min run at 40-60% revs, then a 15min cool down.
10min run at 60-80% revs, then a 15min cool down.
15min run at 70-90% revs, then a 1 hour cool down.

On the final run, I was already hitting just under 95kph.

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Re: JiaJue Executive Tweaks & Mods
« Reply #20 on Jun 17, 2008, 10:33am »

CONCLUSION: ALL DRESSED UP - PLACES TO GO!

The Final Verdict - I'm Happy

On the same stretch of road under similar conditions, I can now hit 105kph consistently. I went for a motorway / brief highway run and managed to keep her up over 100 (even up mild hills).

Although it was never intended to be a highway bike, it can do brief runs without slowing down too much traffic.

The engine is loosening up nicely, starts 1st go and with no oil or air leaks. She's on 350k's now and I've just changed the oil out to a Motul 4100 SAE 15W50 Full Synthetic Engine Oil.

That's about as far as I'm going to mod this bike - mission accomplished 8-)

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Re: JiaJue Executive Tweaks & Mods
« Reply #21 on Jun 17, 2008, 7:30pm »

The carpet is the same as they use in boats so it can be hosed out! - now if only I could do that to my kids rooms (teenagers).

The Magic Black is an amazing colour. Here's a few pics of it out in the afternoon sun...

[image]

« Last Edit: Mar 29, 2009, 4:50pm by medman1952 »

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