Post by earlwb on Mar 3, 2007 14:35:51 GMT -5
This thread has turned into a running commentary of my scooter and its trials and tribulations.
Well so far I have racked up over 1,000 miles on my Roketa Fiji 150 scooter. I had ordered the scooter off the Internet via JKScooters.com out of Kansas. They are part of the Win-Win Auto Group in that region. The scooter appears to have been drop shipped out of the Roketa Warehouse in Ontario California.
The scooter arrived in a fairly fast time, faster than I was expecting during the Christmas Season. It came in a huge cardboard covered box in a metal frame. The bottom of the frame was bent inwards, but after unpacking the scooter, I was very happy that the scooter was not damaged in any way that I could see.
Getting the scooter off the packing crate frame, required you to remove numerous 10mm nuts and bolts holding the frame together. Then you had to unwrap about 100 feet of clear plastic sheets that the scooter was wrapped in. The scooter came completely assembled and you only needed to install the mirrors and the rear trunk box.
Then before you do anything, air up the tires good. I went 35psi in the rear and 30psi in the front.
Now you need three people, two to lift the rear of the scooter, so that the third person can slide the frame bottom out of the way. Then repeat for the front of the scooter. Now you can roll the scooter over to wherever you want to put it.
The battery goes under the floorboards in a little battery compartment. they provide a series of six small acid bottles, of which you carefully turn upside down and push onto the battery filler inlets. Then using a small push pin, that they thoughtfully included, you poke a hole in the bottom of each acid bottle in order to aid in filling the battery. Then you install the rubber battery filler cover strip. Then, most important, you need to charge the battery up real good, before you install it in the scooter.
Of course, you need to install the rear view mirrors. Plus the rear trunk box. there is a large thick molded piece of plastic that goes in between the trunk box and the scooter's rear rack. You have four shorter and four longer bolts for this. The two metal strips go under the rack, sideways. You bolt the plastic part onto the rear rack using the bolts with the angled heads. They have some angled (countersunk) holes for that purpose in the plastic piece. You then mount the trunk and bolt it onto the rear using the other bolts and nuts. I used Blue Locktite on all the nuts, just in case.
Now is a good time to go ahead and change out the engine oil and rear gearbox oil. You really do not know what quality or quantity of oil is in there. So it is best to ensure you have a known oil inside the scooter. On one of the papers that came with the scooter, they do state to change out the oil upon receipt.
Now remove the storage tub under the seat. Note where all the rubber tubing is going. On the left side of the carb, you should see the fuel line is dangling loose and not installed on the carb's inlet nipple. Ths is a good time to patiently replace all the fuel lines with better quality fuel lines. The OEM fuel lines are OK, but they'll crack and start to leak fairly fast, so it is better to replace now. I used standard 1/4 inch automotive fuel line. Do not mix it up with 1/4 inch vaccum tubing though, the rubber tubing is different. Note that I removed the cross brace on top of the frame, as it made it a lot easiter to get in there to install the fuel line onto the carb's inlet nipple.
After replacing the fuel tubing and getting it all hooked up good. Then you can replace the OEM vaccum tubing if you like. Take your time and REPLACE EACH TUBE ONE AT A TIME. There are a bunch of tubes going all over the place.
During the rubber tubing replacement job, I found a mystery 3/8 inch tube that was just left open on one end. it looks like they meant for it to connect to a carbon canister for the fuel tank, but they simply left it open. It is about 12 inches too short. So you can either connect the 3/8" tube with a extension to the carbon canister or simply leave it open. Either way works OK.
Now you can add some gasoline to the fuel tank. Check for fuel leaks now.
With the scooter up on the center stand, use the kick starter to turn the engine over a number of times. I went for about ten kicks on the kick starter lever. This gets a little vaccum going to the vaccum fuel valve, so that the fuel flows down to the engine's carb.
When I first tried starting it up, nothing worked. Well after getting over that first panic attack, I figured out that I needed to pull in on the rear brake lever (the left one) and then the electric starter would work. It fired right up no problem. I fiddled with the idle adjustment a few times until I got a good compromise between idling cold and warm. There is a point where the automatic choke (enrichener) starts to disengage that the engine will idle down real slow, versus the better warmed up idle speed, so you need to experiment until you get it to idle Ok under both conditions. Mine seems to like idling about about 2,000 rpm when warmed up good.
If everything is working OK, you can reinstall the under the seat storage tub. You should also go through and check all the nuts. bolts, and screws on the scooter to ensure that none of them are loose.
Problems....
1. The only real problem that I had was at a little over 50 miles, the left low beam headlight filament burned out. It isn't exactly a trivial thing to replace, but it is not difficult.
2. At about 990 miles, I found that the rear axle nut was slightly loose, in that I had to turn it about 1/4 of a turn to tighten back it up.
3. Every now and then the rear brake seems to stay engaged at a stop. But if you flick the brake lever or give it some throttle it pops loose. This might be the cam angle on the pivot piece inside the brake drum on the brake pads. I am not sure at this time. I probably should lubricate the brake cable some.
More info
After getting the scooter insured, safety inspected, titled and licensed I was ready to give it a go on the road. You really should get this government stuff done in person, you will need a MSO and to fill out a Title application form as well. All the states and such are different, so you can checkup on the internet for your state as needed. Most states have their forms online too.
I took it easy at first as the engine was new and needed breaking in good. So at slow speeds nothing unusual was noticed. I did not try going over 40mph. Later after running it in for 300 miles or so, I started riding it faster and harder. Anyway it runs pretty good, accellerates Ok. The brakes work pretty good in that they stop it well. The 13 inch tires seem to smooth out the roads well, pot holes aren't too bad.
Now that I am more comfortable on it, I find that it handles well, turns good, you can lean it over quite a bit before anything starts to drag. On the left side the side stand and center stand don't drag on the road until you get it leaned WAY over hard. The right side does notreally have anything low down, so you can theoretically lean over farther to the right.
The front disc brake says it has a ABS system on it (anti-lock brake system). Actually it does, but it is not a high-tech computer controlled system like you see on the higher priced vehicles. They came up with a simple hydraulic pressure regulator valve. If you apply too much pressure to the hand brake lever, it will bleed off some pressure to the front disc brake pads. Thus on a dry paved road, if you try to lock up the front wheel, it probably won't lock up. This is maybe a nice feature for beginners and novices. It does seem to work OK, but do not depend on it in wet weather on slippery roads.
I used a inference method to check the speedometer accuracy. I saw that a city had setup a radar speed warning trailer on a side street. So I took advantage of it, to see how the speedo would compare to the radar digital dsplay. Speeds at 25, 30, 35 and 40 mph were all matching up good. I wasn't able to see how it did at 50, 55 mph as I didn't have enough distance to build up to go that fast. Another nethod was to match the speed of all the cars around me while going through a speed trap the police were running radar on. Funny how everyone will all be going 50mph until they get past the police cars. :-)
So I think the speed is reasonbly accurate up to 50mph or so.
I have had it up to 55mph, but that seems to be about it with me riding it. I weigh about 220, along with a bunch of extra tools, and a heavy riding jacket and riding pants. So trying to go faster doesn't seem to be productive. I could probably get 60mph if I crouched down low, and went light, leaving all the extras at home. The scooter feels comfortable and happy cruising along at 40-45mph. Most of the roads have a 40-45mph speed limit on them, so this isn't a problem. Albeit motorists are notorious for speeding at 10-20mph over the posted speed limits. But they can just pass me, what the heck. I figure I could probably get the little scooter to go up to 60mph if I try really hard, maybe with a tailwind and going downhill. But it doesn't weigh much and it starts to feel light at speeds over 50mph anyway, so I am not inclined to try it at this time.
Previously, i found that you do not want to try to fill the fuel tank to the brim with fuel, leave a inch or so of air at the top. If you do fill it up too much, excess fuel will dribble out of the carbon canister vent on you. You will need to wait for the excess to stop dribbling out, otherwise it'll block the air vent and the engine will die on you down the road a ways. Don't panic. Just remove the fuel tank cap and put it back on, it should start right up Ok then.
There have been lots of horror stories about the CVT drive belts breaking, so I had to open up my scooter to see what was in there. Roketa has a Bando belt installed, so this should be of much better quality over the OEM no name brand belts many scooters came with in the past. Just in case I made my own variator tool and bought a long 14" breaker bar wrench that I can carry along with me along with a spare drive belt. I bought a small tool bag and stuffed it with lots of tools and a small blue locktite bottle in case I need to do something out on the road. The under the seat storage tub has a small hole strategically placed in it that allows you to use a long shaft phillips screwdriver in case you need to tweak the engine idle speed.
I have not tried changing out the spark plug yet, but it looks like with the front door panel open, you can just reach it Ok. I also have not tried adjusting the valves on the engine as they seem to be working Ok as is. There were some stories of engine valves being out of adjustment or stretching and closing the gap. Since mine has a faint tap tap tap valve sound already, I thought I would be aware of it, and see how long it goes without messing with the valve adjustments.
On the manufactuer's label, they stated that the scooter was manufactured on October 2006, at the Shanghai JMStar Motorcycle Company, wherever that is over in China. In looking t\at the scoot the manufacturer is putting a lot more attention into quality control. As on the scooter many of the nuts and bolts have a small paint dash on them signifying that someone inspected them before they crated the scooters up. So I assume they are implementing some Six Sigma system in manufacturing.
Of course the VIN shows that it was maybe the 15th bike off the assembly line at the factory, so as number 15, quality control may be better as it is sort of "new" so to speak. Later after a few hundred maybe they get sloppy at the factory, I don't know.
Finally fuel consumption. The first time I tracked its fuel mileage, I got a little over 67 miles per gallon. Later after getting it broken in and taking it easy I got almost 83mpg. Lately it seems to get between 65mpg on up to 82mpg, depending on how hard I ride the scooter. I tend to ride slower than most so my gas mileage is staying around the 75mpg range most of the time.
The scooter's instrument cluster is a simple affair, nothing fancy, just the main needed indicators. I like the large speedometer and tachometer indicators. But at night the backlights tend to be a little too bright. The speedo also reads in miles per hour so you don't have to deal with metric conversions.
One final thought is the fuel guage. It is a little non-linear, but not too bad. At 1/2 it is about 6 tenths down, at about 1/4 it actually is down to about 1.2 gallons. So with a 1.6 gallon tank, the 1/4 full mark makes for a good "its time to find a gas station" thought. My Chevy Trakker is a lot more nonlinear on its fuel guage. Man it would have been cool to have a trip meter on these things.
Things that could have been done better
1. I think they should have used a left hand threading on the axle and axlenut on the rear wheel. The axle turns closkwise as you are riding forward, and with a left hand thread on the nut, it would tend to tighten up and not loosen up. This is the same principle that they used on all the automobile wheels and lug nuts. All the lug nuts on the right side of a car are left hand thread, just for this reason.
Pictures
The scooter as it was just uncrated, before getting it off the lower frame.
here is a pic showing the way the scooter looked inside the crate after I removed the carboard covering.
In this pic you can see where the crate frame took a good hit down low on the base of the frame. A few of the 10mm bolts had sheared off or broke in places. As a side note one could use the scooter stand section on the bottom of the frame to advantage, if they need a scooter stand in lieu of using a center stand on the scooter.
Roketa Fiji 150 scooter
Me on the scooter, I could not hold the smile long enough, while my son was trying to figure out how to take the shot.
Here is a pic of the engine compartment with the storage tub removed. I wanted to show that the fuel line was not connected to the engine, and if you remove the cross brace as pointed to by the arrow, if is a lot easier trying to get the fuel line hooked up to the carb.
With the cross brace removed, it is reasonably easy to reach the fuel inlet nipple so you can put on the fuel line.
Here is the mystery tube, with my solution to what to do with the dangling tube.
here is how I handled the rear view mirror wiring color codes. I don't know what the third wire is for, it only needs two wires, ground and power.
I had some scrap pieces of aluminum sheet handy, so I made my own safety inspection sticker plate for the license plate and sticker for the scooter.
Here is the engine number on the side of the engine. I wonder what company QMJ stands for?
I just discovered today a new thing about my scoot. There is a second oil drain plug on the left side. You can see the large chrome bolt head in the lower right side of the left crankcase side in the pic. That second bolt is a oil drain plug too. So besides the regular drain plug with the spring and screen, there is this one also.
On the side of the engine crankcase near the oil drain plug is a oil capacity statement. Mine says 0.75ml, which is useful so you know how much oil to put in when you change out the oil.
I put one of these super magnets, that I bought off of ebay, as an aid in tripping stoplights on my commutes.
here is a photo of the axle nut, I put in arrows showing how the nut needed a little tightening to correct the loose rear wheel. I used some blue locktite to ensure it doesn't come loose too easily on me in the future. I put on arrows showing where the quality control check paint dash was and the almost 1/4 turn extra I tightened the nut up to. I suspect it was tight orginally, but the bearings wore in a little causing it to become slightly loose.
Here is a pic of the air cleaner filter. It is a regular round cylindrical shape filter. So in a pnch, one can get a replacement at an auto parts store too.
here is a pic of the CVT drive opened up for inspection.
Roketa put in a better Bando drive belt than was being used in the past.
my homemade variator tool is shown here.
This is how I use the tool to remove the variator nut. Both the 14" breaker bar and the 14" long variator tool fit in my under the seat storage tub. Use blue locktite to ensure the nut doesn't come loose on you later.
Here is a pic of the instrument cluster on the scooter. It is a simple affair with a speedometer, tachometer, turn signal indicators, high/low beam indicator and odometer. it reads in miles per hour.
Here is a shot of the identification sticker. that could possibly be considered a problem as it is a cheapie sticker, and it can eventually peel off and flutter away in a breeze, probably while out riding around. I am thinking about trying some super glue on it to see if that will keep the sticker from peeling off too much.
Well so far I have racked up over 1,000 miles on my Roketa Fiji 150 scooter. I had ordered the scooter off the Internet via JKScooters.com out of Kansas. They are part of the Win-Win Auto Group in that region. The scooter appears to have been drop shipped out of the Roketa Warehouse in Ontario California.
The scooter arrived in a fairly fast time, faster than I was expecting during the Christmas Season. It came in a huge cardboard covered box in a metal frame. The bottom of the frame was bent inwards, but after unpacking the scooter, I was very happy that the scooter was not damaged in any way that I could see.
Getting the scooter off the packing crate frame, required you to remove numerous 10mm nuts and bolts holding the frame together. Then you had to unwrap about 100 feet of clear plastic sheets that the scooter was wrapped in. The scooter came completely assembled and you only needed to install the mirrors and the rear trunk box.
Then before you do anything, air up the tires good. I went 35psi in the rear and 30psi in the front.
Now you need three people, two to lift the rear of the scooter, so that the third person can slide the frame bottom out of the way. Then repeat for the front of the scooter. Now you can roll the scooter over to wherever you want to put it.
The battery goes under the floorboards in a little battery compartment. they provide a series of six small acid bottles, of which you carefully turn upside down and push onto the battery filler inlets. Then using a small push pin, that they thoughtfully included, you poke a hole in the bottom of each acid bottle in order to aid in filling the battery. Then you install the rubber battery filler cover strip. Then, most important, you need to charge the battery up real good, before you install it in the scooter.
Of course, you need to install the rear view mirrors. Plus the rear trunk box. there is a large thick molded piece of plastic that goes in between the trunk box and the scooter's rear rack. You have four shorter and four longer bolts for this. The two metal strips go under the rack, sideways. You bolt the plastic part onto the rear rack using the bolts with the angled heads. They have some angled (countersunk) holes for that purpose in the plastic piece. You then mount the trunk and bolt it onto the rear using the other bolts and nuts. I used Blue Locktite on all the nuts, just in case.
Now is a good time to go ahead and change out the engine oil and rear gearbox oil. You really do not know what quality or quantity of oil is in there. So it is best to ensure you have a known oil inside the scooter. On one of the papers that came with the scooter, they do state to change out the oil upon receipt.
Now remove the storage tub under the seat. Note where all the rubber tubing is going. On the left side of the carb, you should see the fuel line is dangling loose and not installed on the carb's inlet nipple. Ths is a good time to patiently replace all the fuel lines with better quality fuel lines. The OEM fuel lines are OK, but they'll crack and start to leak fairly fast, so it is better to replace now. I used standard 1/4 inch automotive fuel line. Do not mix it up with 1/4 inch vaccum tubing though, the rubber tubing is different. Note that I removed the cross brace on top of the frame, as it made it a lot easiter to get in there to install the fuel line onto the carb's inlet nipple.
After replacing the fuel tubing and getting it all hooked up good. Then you can replace the OEM vaccum tubing if you like. Take your time and REPLACE EACH TUBE ONE AT A TIME. There are a bunch of tubes going all over the place.
During the rubber tubing replacement job, I found a mystery 3/8 inch tube that was just left open on one end. it looks like they meant for it to connect to a carbon canister for the fuel tank, but they simply left it open. It is about 12 inches too short. So you can either connect the 3/8" tube with a extension to the carbon canister or simply leave it open. Either way works OK.
Now you can add some gasoline to the fuel tank. Check for fuel leaks now.
With the scooter up on the center stand, use the kick starter to turn the engine over a number of times. I went for about ten kicks on the kick starter lever. This gets a little vaccum going to the vaccum fuel valve, so that the fuel flows down to the engine's carb.
When I first tried starting it up, nothing worked. Well after getting over that first panic attack, I figured out that I needed to pull in on the rear brake lever (the left one) and then the electric starter would work. It fired right up no problem. I fiddled with the idle adjustment a few times until I got a good compromise between idling cold and warm. There is a point where the automatic choke (enrichener) starts to disengage that the engine will idle down real slow, versus the better warmed up idle speed, so you need to experiment until you get it to idle Ok under both conditions. Mine seems to like idling about about 2,000 rpm when warmed up good.
If everything is working OK, you can reinstall the under the seat storage tub. You should also go through and check all the nuts. bolts, and screws on the scooter to ensure that none of them are loose.
Problems....
1. The only real problem that I had was at a little over 50 miles, the left low beam headlight filament burned out. It isn't exactly a trivial thing to replace, but it is not difficult.
2. At about 990 miles, I found that the rear axle nut was slightly loose, in that I had to turn it about 1/4 of a turn to tighten back it up.
3. Every now and then the rear brake seems to stay engaged at a stop. But if you flick the brake lever or give it some throttle it pops loose. This might be the cam angle on the pivot piece inside the brake drum on the brake pads. I am not sure at this time. I probably should lubricate the brake cable some.
More info
After getting the scooter insured, safety inspected, titled and licensed I was ready to give it a go on the road. You really should get this government stuff done in person, you will need a MSO and to fill out a Title application form as well. All the states and such are different, so you can checkup on the internet for your state as needed. Most states have their forms online too.
I took it easy at first as the engine was new and needed breaking in good. So at slow speeds nothing unusual was noticed. I did not try going over 40mph. Later after running it in for 300 miles or so, I started riding it faster and harder. Anyway it runs pretty good, accellerates Ok. The brakes work pretty good in that they stop it well. The 13 inch tires seem to smooth out the roads well, pot holes aren't too bad.
Now that I am more comfortable on it, I find that it handles well, turns good, you can lean it over quite a bit before anything starts to drag. On the left side the side stand and center stand don't drag on the road until you get it leaned WAY over hard. The right side does notreally have anything low down, so you can theoretically lean over farther to the right.
The front disc brake says it has a ABS system on it (anti-lock brake system). Actually it does, but it is not a high-tech computer controlled system like you see on the higher priced vehicles. They came up with a simple hydraulic pressure regulator valve. If you apply too much pressure to the hand brake lever, it will bleed off some pressure to the front disc brake pads. Thus on a dry paved road, if you try to lock up the front wheel, it probably won't lock up. This is maybe a nice feature for beginners and novices. It does seem to work OK, but do not depend on it in wet weather on slippery roads.
I used a inference method to check the speedometer accuracy. I saw that a city had setup a radar speed warning trailer on a side street. So I took advantage of it, to see how the speedo would compare to the radar digital dsplay. Speeds at 25, 30, 35 and 40 mph were all matching up good. I wasn't able to see how it did at 50, 55 mph as I didn't have enough distance to build up to go that fast. Another nethod was to match the speed of all the cars around me while going through a speed trap the police were running radar on. Funny how everyone will all be going 50mph until they get past the police cars. :-)
So I think the speed is reasonbly accurate up to 50mph or so.
I have had it up to 55mph, but that seems to be about it with me riding it. I weigh about 220, along with a bunch of extra tools, and a heavy riding jacket and riding pants. So trying to go faster doesn't seem to be productive. I could probably get 60mph if I crouched down low, and went light, leaving all the extras at home. The scooter feels comfortable and happy cruising along at 40-45mph. Most of the roads have a 40-45mph speed limit on them, so this isn't a problem. Albeit motorists are notorious for speeding at 10-20mph over the posted speed limits. But they can just pass me, what the heck. I figure I could probably get the little scooter to go up to 60mph if I try really hard, maybe with a tailwind and going downhill. But it doesn't weigh much and it starts to feel light at speeds over 50mph anyway, so I am not inclined to try it at this time.
Previously, i found that you do not want to try to fill the fuel tank to the brim with fuel, leave a inch or so of air at the top. If you do fill it up too much, excess fuel will dribble out of the carbon canister vent on you. You will need to wait for the excess to stop dribbling out, otherwise it'll block the air vent and the engine will die on you down the road a ways. Don't panic. Just remove the fuel tank cap and put it back on, it should start right up Ok then.
There have been lots of horror stories about the CVT drive belts breaking, so I had to open up my scooter to see what was in there. Roketa has a Bando belt installed, so this should be of much better quality over the OEM no name brand belts many scooters came with in the past. Just in case I made my own variator tool and bought a long 14" breaker bar wrench that I can carry along with me along with a spare drive belt. I bought a small tool bag and stuffed it with lots of tools and a small blue locktite bottle in case I need to do something out on the road. The under the seat storage tub has a small hole strategically placed in it that allows you to use a long shaft phillips screwdriver in case you need to tweak the engine idle speed.
I have not tried changing out the spark plug yet, but it looks like with the front door panel open, you can just reach it Ok. I also have not tried adjusting the valves on the engine as they seem to be working Ok as is. There were some stories of engine valves being out of adjustment or stretching and closing the gap. Since mine has a faint tap tap tap valve sound already, I thought I would be aware of it, and see how long it goes without messing with the valve adjustments.
On the manufactuer's label, they stated that the scooter was manufactured on October 2006, at the Shanghai JMStar Motorcycle Company, wherever that is over in China. In looking t\at the scoot the manufacturer is putting a lot more attention into quality control. As on the scooter many of the nuts and bolts have a small paint dash on them signifying that someone inspected them before they crated the scooters up. So I assume they are implementing some Six Sigma system in manufacturing.
Of course the VIN shows that it was maybe the 15th bike off the assembly line at the factory, so as number 15, quality control may be better as it is sort of "new" so to speak. Later after a few hundred maybe they get sloppy at the factory, I don't know.
Finally fuel consumption. The first time I tracked its fuel mileage, I got a little over 67 miles per gallon. Later after getting it broken in and taking it easy I got almost 83mpg. Lately it seems to get between 65mpg on up to 82mpg, depending on how hard I ride the scooter. I tend to ride slower than most so my gas mileage is staying around the 75mpg range most of the time.
The scooter's instrument cluster is a simple affair, nothing fancy, just the main needed indicators. I like the large speedometer and tachometer indicators. But at night the backlights tend to be a little too bright. The speedo also reads in miles per hour so you don't have to deal with metric conversions.
One final thought is the fuel guage. It is a little non-linear, but not too bad. At 1/2 it is about 6 tenths down, at about 1/4 it actually is down to about 1.2 gallons. So with a 1.6 gallon tank, the 1/4 full mark makes for a good "its time to find a gas station" thought. My Chevy Trakker is a lot more nonlinear on its fuel guage. Man it would have been cool to have a trip meter on these things.
Things that could have been done better
1. I think they should have used a left hand threading on the axle and axlenut on the rear wheel. The axle turns closkwise as you are riding forward, and with a left hand thread on the nut, it would tend to tighten up and not loosen up. This is the same principle that they used on all the automobile wheels and lug nuts. All the lug nuts on the right side of a car are left hand thread, just for this reason.
Pictures
The scooter as it was just uncrated, before getting it off the lower frame.
here is a pic showing the way the scooter looked inside the crate after I removed the carboard covering.
In this pic you can see where the crate frame took a good hit down low on the base of the frame. A few of the 10mm bolts had sheared off or broke in places. As a side note one could use the scooter stand section on the bottom of the frame to advantage, if they need a scooter stand in lieu of using a center stand on the scooter.
Roketa Fiji 150 scooter
Me on the scooter, I could not hold the smile long enough, while my son was trying to figure out how to take the shot.
Here is a pic of the engine compartment with the storage tub removed. I wanted to show that the fuel line was not connected to the engine, and if you remove the cross brace as pointed to by the arrow, if is a lot easier trying to get the fuel line hooked up to the carb.
With the cross brace removed, it is reasonably easy to reach the fuel inlet nipple so you can put on the fuel line.
Here is the mystery tube, with my solution to what to do with the dangling tube.
here is how I handled the rear view mirror wiring color codes. I don't know what the third wire is for, it only needs two wires, ground and power.
I had some scrap pieces of aluminum sheet handy, so I made my own safety inspection sticker plate for the license plate and sticker for the scooter.
Here is the engine number on the side of the engine. I wonder what company QMJ stands for?
I just discovered today a new thing about my scoot. There is a second oil drain plug on the left side. You can see the large chrome bolt head in the lower right side of the left crankcase side in the pic. That second bolt is a oil drain plug too. So besides the regular drain plug with the spring and screen, there is this one also.
On the side of the engine crankcase near the oil drain plug is a oil capacity statement. Mine says 0.75ml, which is useful so you know how much oil to put in when you change out the oil.
I put one of these super magnets, that I bought off of ebay, as an aid in tripping stoplights on my commutes.
here is a photo of the axle nut, I put in arrows showing how the nut needed a little tightening to correct the loose rear wheel. I used some blue locktite to ensure it doesn't come loose too easily on me in the future. I put on arrows showing where the quality control check paint dash was and the almost 1/4 turn extra I tightened the nut up to. I suspect it was tight orginally, but the bearings wore in a little causing it to become slightly loose.
Here is a pic of the air cleaner filter. It is a regular round cylindrical shape filter. So in a pnch, one can get a replacement at an auto parts store too.
here is a pic of the CVT drive opened up for inspection.
Roketa put in a better Bando drive belt than was being used in the past.
my homemade variator tool is shown here.
This is how I use the tool to remove the variator nut. Both the 14" breaker bar and the 14" long variator tool fit in my under the seat storage tub. Use blue locktite to ensure the nut doesn't come loose on you later.
Here is a pic of the instrument cluster on the scooter. It is a simple affair with a speedometer, tachometer, turn signal indicators, high/low beam indicator and odometer. it reads in miles per hour.
Here is a shot of the identification sticker. that could possibly be considered a problem as it is a cheapie sticker, and it can eventually peel off and flutter away in a breeze, probably while out riding around. I am thinking about trying some super glue on it to see if that will keep the sticker from peeling off too much.
