|
|
Post by Lukain on Aug 22, 2012 7:54:13 GMT -5
Love this idea. Cost $2(from Wal-mart) for the hamster bottle and $3.97(Lowes) for the steel wool. Attachments:
|
|
|
|
Post by Lukain on Aug 22, 2012 7:56:20 GMT -5
Hole made on the bottom of Hamster bottle. I already have a PCV which I will mount in the hole later. Not needed but since I already have it why not and won't hurt anything to use it. Attachments:
|
|
|
|
Post by Lukain on Aug 22, 2012 7:57:36 GMT -5
Removed the ball bearings inside tube, stuffed 3 steel wool pads inside and attached hose and viola! Finished oil catch can. (Will add a slighty longer hose later and the PCV.) Attachments:
|
|
|
|
Post by carasdad on Aug 22, 2012 9:40:38 GMT -5
Just don't jam pack the bottle with steel wool...blow into the hose to make sure you get air flow..so the gasses can escape and not build pressure in the engine.  The ones I have made work great...which = Happy customer... Now you no longer have to empty your catch can...as once you ride then shut down....the oil drains back into the engine...and also..no more oil mess all over your engine. But know that somewhere in the world..a poor Hamster is dying of thirst because of you...lol... ;D |
|
|
|
Post by Lukain on Aug 22, 2012 13:55:26 GMT -5
I quess I could have got away with just one or two pads. That part I wasn't sure of. I just went and blew into the tube and it seems to flow real easy. I believe I will have the rest of the parts I am waiting for by Thursday of next week. I start my vacation on the 31st so I will have plenty of time to piddle with "Sally". I will post the final, final results then.
I could have painted the bottle...but truthfully I get a kick out of the designs on it.
And once again, Thanks Carasdad.
LOL...Secretly I actually intend to use the bottle to supply water for the little hamsters in my engine to supply me with turbo boost! I run them hard and they do get real thirsty. ;D
|
|
|
|
Post by mself52 on Aug 31, 2012 8:19:58 GMT -5
I just made one and its awesome no more smoke and burnt oil smell thanks carasdad
|
|
|
|
Post by carasdad on Aug 31, 2012 8:36:14 GMT -5
I just made one and its awesome no more smoke and burnt oil smell thanks carasdad You are very welcome. Glad you got it fixed and never have to empty a catch can now!!.. In that it empties itself..returning oil to your engine everytime you shut down or come to a stop at light or stop sign. However...as I said before...now somewhere in the world...a Hamster is dying of thirst..cause you got water their bottle...better hope we don't have any PETA members on this forum...  |
|
|
|
Post by mself52 on Aug 31, 2012 9:16:56 GMT -5
Lol I'd zip tie a hampster under there if it stops the smoke and oil leak from that hose  kidding of course! |
|
|
|
Post by mainepeace on Aug 31, 2012 10:28:49 GMT -5
I got the big expensive catch can from Scrappy to try it out. It's HUGE and the hose connections are wayyy too large. Need more connectors than hose length. I'll try this instead.
Greg
|
|
|
|
Post by carasdad on Aug 31, 2012 10:40:17 GMT -5
I got the big expensive catch can from Scrappy to try it out. It's HUGE and the hose connections are wayyy too large. Need more connectors than hose length. I'll try this instead. Greg Greg is that the one that returns oil through the dip stick hole?... I heard that they work..but as you said...connectors are too large... How large..as in you have to make your own?... Let us know how it works...would love to see pics...as the pics on his sight show the kit...but not what it looks like once hooked up...or how to hook it up..  |
|
|
|
Post by mainepeace on Aug 31, 2012 11:41:04 GMT -5
Too large as in "automotive size" too large. It uses 3/8" ID hose. I was planning on just hooking it to the crankcase vent only as I don't believe the drain going through the oil fill tube will work very well over time.
Greg
|
|
|
|
Post by carasdad on Aug 31, 2012 11:50:31 GMT -5
Too large as in "automotive size" too large. It uses 3/8" ID hose. I was planning on just hooking it to the crankcase vent only as I don't believe the drain going through the oil fill tube will work very well over time. Greg 3/8" ? wow...they must think it's for your truck?...lol. I am with you on the drain going to the fill tube...cause when you remove the fill plug while running..gas and oil comes out due to pressure. Maybe it is designed to drain back once you shut down? |
|
|
|
Post by mainepeace on Aug 31, 2012 18:19:15 GMT -5
It came without instructions (as usual) but it's supposed to drain into the oil fill tube when the engine is turned off. The fill tube drain plug has a side cut hole to keep the oil from directly splashing up the tube, but I don't believe it would work well as a valve. I may just put a PCV valve in between that fitting and the oil catch can. It would be turned so no pressure from the crankcase can go UP the tube, but when the motor is turned off the oil can drain back down. The other side of the catch can (with two fittings) would have one vented to the air and one hooked up to the crankcase vent tube. Incidentally, the hole inside the 3/8" fitting is *just* large enough for the 3/16" vacuum line, so with a bit of RTV it should hold well. I'll post a pic and how-to when I get around to doing it.
Greg
|
|
|
|
Post by carasdad on Aug 31, 2012 20:19:53 GMT -5
It came without instructions (as usual) but it's supposed to drain into the oil fill tube when the engine is turned off. The fill tube drain plug has a side cut hole to keep the oil from directly splashing up the tube, but I don't believe it would work well as a valve. I may just put a PCV valve in between that fitting and the oil catch can. It would be turned so no pressure from the crankcase can go UP the tube, but when the motor is turned off the oil can drain back down. The other side of the catch can (with two fittings) would have one vented to the air and one hooked up to the crankcase vent tube. Incidentally, the hole inside the 3/8" fitting is *just* large enough for the 3/16" vacuum line, so with a bit of RTV it should hold well. I'll post a pic and how-to when I get around to doing it. Greg Good idea...post a pic when done. Also I would say your idea about adding a PCV is a good safety measure... Btw..you are not alone...most of the parts for our cars and skoots I order...have no instructions. A few years ago the first set of slider weights had no instructions on which way to put them in...called the distributor..and they did not know as well... I guess it's just the good ole.."Don't ask me...I just sell the parts"... |
|
|
|
Post by petrol42 on Aug 31, 2012 22:46:54 GMT -5
It came without instructions (as usual) but it's supposed to drain into the oil fill tube when the engine is turned off. The fill tube drain plug has a side cut hole to keep the oil from directly splashing up the tube, but I don't believe it would work well as a valve. I may just put a PCV valve in between that fitting and the oil catch can. It would be turned so no pressure from the crankcase can go UP the tube, but when the motor is turned off the oil can drain back down. The other side of the catch can (with two fittings) would have one vented to the air and one hooked up to the crankcase vent tube. Incidentally, the hole inside the 3/8" fitting is *just* large enough for the 3/16" vacuum line, so with a bit of RTV it should hold well. I'll post a pic and how-to when I get around to doing it. Greg I have the Scrappy Dog Oil Catch Can and hooked it up the way you that you want to. I made a Youtube vid on it: I've since uninstalled the oil return line thru the dipstick hole and just pup my dipstick back in because the pressure going back thru the dipstick hole causes the oil to foam up. I think the oil goes thru a passage where the dipstick hole is and because the pressure going back thru that dipstick hole foams up the oil right there, the oil pump can't properly lubricate the motor. I could actually hear a sound like shooting air out of an air hose as I rode in the upper RPM range. This is bad. Since I took it off, I don't hear that noise anymore. I'm going to make a follow-up video and recommend not to use the oil dipstick pass thru because it'll grenade your engine. |
|
|
|
Post by carasdad on Aug 31, 2012 23:21:24 GMT -5
It came without instructions (as usual) but it's supposed to drain into the oil fill tube when the engine is turned off. The fill tube drain plug has a side cut hole to keep the oil from directly splashing up the tube, but I don't believe it would work well as a valve. I may just put a PCV valve in between that fitting and the oil catch can. It would be turned so no pressure from the crankcase can go UP the tube, but when the motor is turned off the oil can drain back down. The other side of the catch can (with two fittings) would have one vented to the air and one hooked up to the crankcase vent tube. Incidentally, the hole inside the 3/8" fitting is *just* large enough for the 3/16" vacuum line, so with a bit of RTV it should hold well. I'll post a pic and how-to when I get around to doing it. Greg I have the Scrappy Dog Oil Catch Can and hooked it up the way you that you want to. I made a Youtube vid on it: I've since uninstalled the oil return line thru the dipstick hole and just pup my dipstick back in because the pressure going back thru the dipstick hole causes the oil to foam up. I think the oil goes thru a passage where the dipstick hole is and because the pressure going back thru that dipstick hole foams up the oil right there, the oil pump can't properly lubricate the motor. I could actually hear a sound like shooting air out of an air hose as I rode in the upper RPM range. This is bad. Since I took it off, I don't hear that noise anymore. I'm going to make a follow-up video and recommend not to use the oil dipstick pass thru because it'll grenade your engine. So how do you return the oil back to the engine?...make sure you give us a link to your follow up vid...tx..Glenn |
|
|
|
Post by swordsman on Sept 1, 2012 0:15:40 GMT -5
IMHO, the water bottle is kinda big. I used a 5-Hour Energy shot bottle, drilled a hole in the upper side and top, plugged the vent hose in the side and slapped a cheapo air filter on top to let it breathe. Worked great on my Buell, and very compact. Emptied it about every 4 or 5 rides, but it was never more than 1/4 full.
~SM
|
|
|
|
Post by petrol42 on Sept 1, 2012 0:52:30 GMT -5
I have the Scrappy Dog Oil Catch Can and hooked it up the way you that you want to. I made a Youtube vid on it: I've since uninstalled the oil return line thru the dipstick hole and just pup my dipstick back in because the pressure going back thru the dipstick hole causes the oil to foam up. I think the oil goes thru a passage where the dipstick hole is and because the pressure going back thru that dipstick hole foams up the oil right there, the oil pump can't properly lubricate the motor. I could actually hear a sound like shooting air out of an air hose as I rode in the upper RPM range. This is bad. Since I took it off, I don't hear that noise anymore. I'm going to make a follow-up video and recommend not to use the oil dipstick pass thru because it'll grenade your engine. So how do you return the oil back to the engine?...make sure you give us a link to your follow up vid...tx..Glenn You could return the oil by placing the catch can as high as you can and let gravity feed the oil back down the valve cover vent. After much thought and a OrpanSoul suggesting that I dispose of the oil, that's what I'm going to do since it probably has gasoline mixed in. The gas will break the oil down and it won't protect your engine as good. But after my rebuild and proper break-in, I haven't had any oil shooting out of the valve cover vent, or it's very little and I don't notice it. |
|
|
|
Post by carasdad on Sept 1, 2012 7:53:00 GMT -5
IMHO, the water bottle is kinda big. I used a 5-Hour Energy shot bottle, drilled a hole in the upper side and top, plugged the vent hose in the side and slapped a cheapo air filter on top to let it breathe. Worked great on my Buell, and very compact. Emptied it about every 4 or 5 rides, but it was never more than 1/4 full. ~SM Hamster bottles are small....size of a small Red Bull can..Guinea Pig and other larger rodent bottle are large...about the size of a 16 oz soda bottle. Hamster bottle fits great..and the setup does not require you to empty it...it does so on its own when you come to a stop..or shut engine down. |
|
|
|
Post by rks on Sept 2, 2012 10:41:38 GMT -5
I must be one of the few, that disagree with this type of system. I don't have a problem with blow-by, but installed my own version of a catch can, on my scooter when it was new. (One that contains what it catches)
After 600 miles of operation, it had about a teaspoon full of liquid in it. 75% of which looked like water, with a few drops of oil on top. The water part of the mix is made up of the combustion gases that got by the rings, and condensed when slowed down and cooled, by passing into the bottle and thru the copper scrubber I have inside it.
Sure don't want that stuff running back into my crankcase...water would be bad enough, but who knows what acids and the like it contains, then add the rust that is sure to form, if steel wool is placed in the bottle.....Just my 2 cents.....scoot safely.....Bob
|
|
|
|
Post by carasdad on Sept 10, 2012 15:07:30 GMT -5
I must be one of the few, that disagree with this type of system. I don't have a problem with blow-by, but installed my own version of a catch can, on my scooter when it was new. (One that contains what it catches) After 600 miles of operation, it had about a teaspoon full of liquid in it. 75% of which looked like water, with a few drops of oil on top. The water part of the mix is made up of the combustion gases that got by the rings, and condensed when slowed down and cooled, by passing into the bottle and thru the copper scrubber I have inside it. Sure don't want that stuff running back into my crankcase...water would be bad enough, but who knows what acids and the like it contains, then add the rust that is sure to form, if steel wool is placed in the bottle.....Just my 2 cents.....scoot safely.....Bob With the stock setup...all that vapor goes back into your engine where the vent hose connects to the breather...so you are getting it anyway. If steel wool bothers you...use the green scrubby type kitchen pads used for pots and pans... |
|
|
|
Post by Lukain on Sept 10, 2012 21:23:19 GMT -5
If you have oil going up to this bottle not all is going to drain down. Some will stay up to coat the wool so rusting will be limited. Course if it does just throw the old one away and make another for 6 bucks.(less cause you wont use all the wool on the first one.)
With proper oil changes I don't see oil breakdown due to gas mixture being a major issue.(But I also am not a true mechanic, so i don't know for sure) If I didn't change the oil for 3-5k miles then it might be different. but every 1k not so bad i believe.
For the three brief rides I did after the engine rebuild, prior to the camshaft chain snapping, I can at least say I have zero oily gas smell with this bottle compared to the smell prior to the can and rebuild. To be fair, I have changed/fixed a lot of various issues I was having but hadn't mentioned so the lack of that smell could be due to other factors that was corrected in my rebuild.
I most assuredly love the fact that it is an idea I can use that works and I don't have to worry about periodically checking. I think it can be agreed on that even with proper PM we have enough to keep track of without adding in another item to drain/whatever.
No knock against other methods(I have no knowledge of them since I havn't used them so wouldn't be a fair eval.) I'm sure they might work as intended. And in time this one may not. But as for now I see it as a nifty thrifty ideer that does work as intended.
|
|
The ones I have made work great...which = Happy customer... Now you no longer have to empty your catch can...as once you ride then shut down....the oil drains back into the engine...and also..no more oil mess all over your engine. But know that somewhere in the world..a poor Hamster is dying of thirst because of you...lol... ;D
kidding of course!
