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Post by terrilee on Jan 27, 2012 11:21:33 GMT -5
ok well when doing my 1st valve adjust yesterday, i found a few cracks and such in my air filter box ( as pictured) well the price for this type has almost equaled a K&N or uni type filter.
so heres my question and after reading alot
if i replace my stock filter with a UNI or K&N type i need to make a oil catch 'can' right? and that connects to which line? the one coming off the valve cover or the one running to the back of my stock 'box' type ? and then what do i do with the other line ?
i had painted my stock type, silver, to match the silver on the plastics and the chrome CVT cover. and it looks ok--but i really like the UNI-K&N type.
so.....................................
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Post by jimboeau on Jan 27, 2012 11:54:11 GMT -5
ok well when doing my 1st valve adjust yesterday, i found a few cracks and such in my air filter box ( as pictured) well the price for this type has almost equaled a K&N or uni type filter.
so heres my question and after reading alot
if i replace my stock filter with a UNI or K&N type i need to make a oil catch 'can' right? and that connects to which line? the one coming off the valve cover or the one running to the back of my stock 'box' type ? and then what do i do with the other line ?
i had painted my stock type, silver, to match the silver on the plastics and the chrome CVT cover. and it looks ok--but i really like the UNI-K&N type.
so.....................................
You would also have to upjet your carb. Best to stick with stock airbox IMHO.
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Post by TERRA NUVO on Jan 27, 2012 12:11:43 GMT -5
terrilee
uni filters are a piece of junk, your bike my never run the same and they draw heat from the motor, suck dust from the air and they are load as hell.
if you can, get some black gasket chalk (7 bucks) and fix you stock filter.
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Post by imnts2 on Jan 27, 2012 12:52:29 GMT -5
I agree with terra. I strongly prefer the stock. even on an hop up engine. I like clean air. I was going to suggest some 2 part plastic glue or a plastic welding kit, Of course, carfully used duct tape also will hold race cars together. Regarding the crankcase vent comming of the valve area, I would constider discannecting it from the air air filter box and perhaps adding a drip can, Try a quick search for examples. I think someone has a cheap one in their store.
Don't spend money on a uni. Cheers lefty2
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Post by nulldevice on Jan 27, 2012 13:06:24 GMT -5
Can the cracks be repaired with some RTV? The picture didn't show where it has cracked. If you remove the stock airbox and snorkel to the carburetor you are going to get some noise, lots of it at large throttle openings and higher speeds. I went back to the stock airbox on my 250cc scooter because of the noise. The 50cc scooter wasn't so bad mainly because I had replaced the stock muffler with a noisier one and also didn't have a windshield on that one.
The K&N filters are cool looking. If you go that route don't worry about the carb jetting until you use the new filter for a while. It may not be necessary since the exhaust is still stock.
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Post by nulldevice on Jan 27, 2012 13:11:06 GMT -5
Catch can -- it is a nice thing, but just run the hose to the back of the scoot and let it vent to atmosphere and you will be OK mechanically. I saw one that routed the hose up the frame to the back and down to the back end of the fender.
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Post by silverfox96 on Jan 27, 2012 15:58:59 GMT -5
As the majority of those on here i would agree with keeping the stock air box, for sure. ANYTIME yu replace the stock box with something that is more freeflowing, you are going to have to rejett your carb, and that is a crap shoot at the least!
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Post by armen444 on Jan 27, 2012 16:11:43 GMT -5
hmm interesting, the day i got my UNI filter i had zero problems with it and ontop of that, i felt as if it was letting in more air than my stock filter (ofcourse, its a free flow air filter) but i was unaware of this catch can as you call it, i was instructed to buy UNI air filter oil in order to lube up the filter but only enough to cover the surface with a light amount of oil, after that i never saw that oil end up anywhere on my bike, it stayed in the foam and kept the tiniest spec of dust out of my carb ....
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Post by imnts2 on Jan 27, 2012 16:34:07 GMT -5
First the idea of "upgradeing " the air filter is supported by a lot of BS associated with souping up the engines supported by virtually no scientific testing. Unless you put a BBK, a big valve or 4 valve head, a high RPM cam and an unlimited CDI, and a carefully tunned exhaust on it and try to run it past 8000 RPM, what you will gain from a free flow intake will be noise. Now I know that noise sure makes it seem like they go faster. Helps "performance" exhaust selling too. I know there are people who will argue with me, but so be it. They will offer all sorts of evidence of added power, but pee poor documentation. Look at machines racing on the desert. They have real air cleaners. I have a vacuum/sander that will sand drywall mud all day without dust exhausting the vacuum. It is a simple paper filter like the standard filter on my 4.0 ford truck engine. And of course, the parts sellers here would love to sell their parts and while I think they are honest, they really have a vested interest in believing it works. Sure, it I were in competition racing of some kind I probably would be doing things to run my engine up to around 10grand but I would not be trying to get even a 1000 miles out of it.
Oh- one more effect of free flow intake, it may make it harder to get enough vacuum to keep your fuel shut off open at /wOT.
Just go ahead and patch it Terri and buy your camera.
So first all, don;t believe all the BS. Stick with stock for the most part. be sceptical about thinking you can out engineer for resonabley durable performance.
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Post by armen444 on Jan 27, 2012 17:10:00 GMT -5
First the idea of "upgradeing " the air filter is supported by a lot of BS associated with souping up the engines supported by virtually no scientific testing. Unless you put a BBK, a big valve or 4 valve head, a high RPM cam and an unlimited CDI, and a carefully tunned exhaust on it and try to run it past 8000 RPM, what you will gain from a free flow intake will be noise. Now I know that noise sure makes it seem like they go faster. Helps "performance" exhaust selling too. I know there are people who will argue with me, but so be it. They will offer all sorts of evidence of added power, but pee poor documentation. Look at machines racing on the desert. They have real air cleaners. I have a vacuum/sander that will sand drywall mud all day without dust exhausting the vacuum. It is a simple paper filter like the standard filter on my 4.0 ford truck engine. And of course, the parts sellers here would love to sell their parts and while I think they are honest, they really have a vested interest in believing it works. Sure, it I were in competition racing of some kind I probably would be doing things to run my engine up to around 10grand but I would not be trying to get even a 1000 miles out of it. Oh- one more effect of free flow intake, it may make it harder to get enough vacuum to keep your fuel shut off open at /wOT. Just go ahead and patch it Terri and buy your camera. So first all, don;t believe all the BS. Stick with stock for the most part. be sceptical about thinking you can out engineer for resonabley durable performance. ok... One thing that i am 110% certain of is if you are running with restricted air flow on an airbox this will decrease performance at higher RPM's, Free Flow air filters simply keep air supply constant with slightly less "cleaning power", Also this "noise" concept you speak of... personally i really haven't noticed a significant increase in noise after the UNI filter installation. By "fuel shut off" do you mean the cylinder in the carb that moves up and down via vacuum power? If so, it should be the opposite due to the increased air flow. As in it should move up and down eaier due to the higher air flow. Also i don't argue, here's my input (consider it "BS" if you will) take it or leave it, if you dont agree ill be happy to read others thoughts and opinions, just like how this is mine
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Post by inuyasha on Jan 27, 2012 17:17:08 GMT -5
Hi Terri I vote for the stock airbox as well I rode my scoot in all types of inclement weather and have never had problems with them With the uni's or open air filters your at the mercy of the elements Take care and drive safely dear friend Yours Hank
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Post by terrilee on Jan 27, 2012 19:18:59 GMT -5
thanks for your opinions
i 'welded' mine for now
need to get another eventually and this time i'll be able to take my time painting it and do a better job
i think it looks better silver rather than blackAttachments:
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Post by mainepeace on Jan 27, 2012 19:24:21 GMT -5
>>> Free Flow air filters simply keep air supply constant with slightly less "cleaning power" Yes and no. It provides the ability to flow more air, but that also messes with the carburetor and other settings. It depends on your particular scooter, as there are MANY differences out there, even among similar looking scooter. If you have a CVK (vacuum operated) carb then ANY change in airflow or air pressure WILL affect the carb operation. Part of the reason for the airbox is noise abatement. Part of it is to clean the air. Part of it is to provide the proper chamber for the required airflow dynamics of the intake. If you put on a free flowing filter and you had no problems then congratulations, as you are one of the lucky few. MOST people have issues in tuning the carburetor for the different airflow profile. A scooter does not run at WOT alone, so part throttle running is a big issue and hard to tune. askit.mainelyscooters.com/why-should-i-keep-the-stock-airbox/Greg
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Post by stilllife on Jan 27, 2012 23:32:08 GMT -5
Good advice guys. Whilst the K&N or Uni might be a good for the modder and tweeker. It isn't the same for the average rider who is just looking to keep the machine maintained with the least amount of headache.
Which is the catagory Terri falls into.
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Post by skuttadawg on Jan 27, 2012 23:49:07 GMT -5
The airbox also helps keep water from gettin ginto the engine where a Uni it would be exposed to rain or puddles . More air more power in some cases , but more air means a leaner fuel/air and would need to be upetted or turn fuel air screw unless its covered up . I took the airbox off of my TaoTao ATM50 just to see how it would sound and perform . Idling it was louder but it bogged like crazy so I put it back on after going down my street and back . Duct tape is great it holds Nascar racecar at 200 ish MPH so a scooter airbox it should work great
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Post by Saber on Jan 28, 2012 8:42:08 GMT -5
Hmmm. I wonder why my results are so different then the nay sayers on the Uni filter. I picked one up from monster gy6 and while talking to Steve there he also handed me a 120 jet. Removed the air box rerouted the lines with out closing them off and had immediate increases in off the line power and increased top end by 2mph on my gps. Granted I lost about 10mpgs but when I compare that to driving my 96 explorer who cares.
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Post by mainepeace on Jan 29, 2012 21:27:38 GMT -5
Different engines respond differently. Yours may have a larger exhaust port than others and was able to utilize the additional airflow. Even among engines from the same manufacturer there are difference in actual manifold port sizes and casting flash that affects the airflow. If your scooter got a genuine gain from the air filter then that's great.
Greg
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