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Post by kz1000st on Apr 15, 2009 14:54:56 GMT -5
I'm only venting while I plan my next move. I was riding along today, scooter running great when it started to slow down and then started making loud valve noise. It always was a little clattery and I was planning to check the clearances, but it was running so nice. Got home, pulled the panels and valve cover, sure enough the outer valve spring is squashed. It doesn't look like it broke up but I haven't drained the oil yet. I take it the engine has to be pulled from the frame to yank the head. It was running so good, I'm really bummed.
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Post by xs650 on Apr 15, 2009 15:09:43 GMT -5
It's probably a single break. if you're lucky nothing spalled of and went inside the engine. With the horizontal engine layout, there is a good chance any pieces are still someplace under the valve cover.
The break probably look like part of a short spiral 45 degrees off the axis of the spring wire.
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Post by kz1000st on Apr 15, 2009 15:16:00 GMT -5
It doesn't look like anything came off. I can see where the break is. The spring is shorter than the internal one, that got me home at a slow pace. It even idles nicely, but it has to be replaced. I'm just dreading my next step. Getting the plastic off to get at the valve cover was a real drag. If that's any indication, pulling the engine will be a real task.
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Post by medman1952 on Apr 15, 2009 15:47:36 GMT -5
You can do the job without pulling the motor, but it is easier to work around with the motor out/off.
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Post by harrywr2 on Apr 15, 2009 16:16:18 GMT -5
Getting the plastic off to get at the valve cover was a real drag. If that's any indication, pulling the engine will be a real task. Yanking the engine is pretty easy. Disconnect the brake cable. Unplug the stator, the Fuel Line, the enricher cable. Either unbolt the carb or remove the throttle cable. Unbolt the motor mounts and rear shocks and your done. Helps if you have a second person to help lift the body on/off the engine. |
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Post by xs650 on Apr 15, 2009 16:46:18 GMT -5
What Medman and Harry said.
Is usually a lot easier overall to spend some time getting better access to your problem. Who knows, you might find something else that needs some PM while you have it out and save yourself some future trouble.
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Post by brian8474 on Apr 15, 2009 16:49:52 GMT -5
Definitely keep those valves in their proper clearances. You have just learned the hard way.  |
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Post by medman1952 on Apr 15, 2009 16:54:19 GMT -5
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Post by kz1000st on Apr 15, 2009 18:39:26 GMT -5
Thanks for all your advice. I planned to check the valves as soon as we had some better weather. I guess I lost the race. What a nuisance pulling off the plastic though. I did find a few loose wires for my trouble so at least it wasn't a total waste. I'll look for other issues while it's down.
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Post by kz1000st on Apr 17, 2009 8:10:21 GMT -5
This might seem like a dumb question, but bear with me. So I'm pulling the engine, I'll pull the exhaust system since it has to come off anyway but can I leave the rear wheel on and lift the scoot frame over the engine and wheel once all the bolts are out and cables undone or does the wheel have to come off too?
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Post by harrywr2 on Apr 17, 2009 9:25:01 GMT -5
This might seem like a dumb question, but bear with me. So I'm pulling the engine, I'll pull the exhaust system since it has to come off anyway but can I leave the rear wheel on and lift the scoot frame over the engine and wheel once all the bolts are out and cables undone or does the wheel have to come off too? Wheel can stay on the motor. |
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Post by jackthefuzz on Apr 17, 2009 11:06:02 GMT -5
its actually easier to handle with the wheel left on. then just rest the engine on some 2x4's or whatever you have handy.
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Post by schoei1 on Apr 24, 2009 15:57:14 GMT -5
I took some pictures during the replacement of my engine and maybe this could help. UPDATE: I removed the engine last night and will be installing the new engine today. 1st: Removed the intake, the carb and the manifold  2nd: Unplugged the ignition coil, the battery ground wire and the Minitach wires from the head   3rd: Removed the exhaust  4th: Removed the brake  5th: Unplugged the starter wire from the solenoid   6th: Unplugged the stator wires   7th: Unbolted the engine from the frame, let it smoothly drop to the ground and rolled it away    As you can see, the removal of the engine is quite a simple stask and doesn't take very long. The next update will be the process of installing the new engine. |
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Post by indy50 on Apr 24, 2009 16:56:31 GMT -5
Lost a valve myself Monday due to a broken spring    It locked my engine up Removal of the engine is not really that hard to do I had a different one mounted and running in about 4 1/2 hrs |
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Post by kz1000st on Apr 25, 2009 9:14:55 GMT -5
kliff did a fabulous job with my head after I really trashed it and I really owe him.
It seems that the springs probably broke because I stupidly didn't read my instruments. The speedo has a redline starting at 50 mph and I was riding there all the time. My scoot has 10" wheels so I was probably screaming the motor even though it didn't sound it. Of course it blew up. I went out and apologized to it once I realized what I had done and will keep it between 40 and 45 in the future, even with the high perf valve springs. kliff suggested putting in a lower gear ratio which is something I'll look into.
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Post by jamescell on Apr 25, 2009 11:42:16 GMT -5
If you find somewhere that has gears in stock please let me know! Every where I have called they don't have them and don't know when they will be in stock.
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Post by kz1000st on May 20, 2009 18:08:15 GMT -5
After a great deal of bad weather and time waiting for things to come together I finally got the scoot running. I didn't put the plastic on and had the battery on the floorboard. It fired after about three spins, without priming the carb, I was amazed. First it made noise at the exhaust manifold which I fixed by releasing the system and tightening the manifold first and then all the other bolts (ok, no heckling, no one told me new Chinese pipes have weird bends). After letting it sit and run and checking for leaks I took it for a spin by putting on the bucket and seat and holding the battery with my feet. I ran it up to 40 mph and it wanted to do more but I'll give it awhile before I do that.
As an aside, when I put the head back on and torqued it the intake valve was gapped at .004 which I left alone. Yes I checked it a few times even. The exhaust was really tight and I gapped it at .005. They're not making noise now and the scooter is idling like a charm. I'll check them again in 500 miles, as unpleasant as that may be.
Thanks to everyone who told me how to proceed and especially kliff who I called when I got stuck and who sent me parts when I needed them. As you saw he did a masterful job on my head and it looks even better in real life. It's ashame it has to be covered up so no one can see it. The head will probably out last the rest of the scooter now.
Now I'll put the plastic on and remember the lesson of limitations. Scooters with 10" wheels aren't made to run all day at 50 mph. I'll keep at and under 45 mph from now on. As Triumph Guy says, "Ride like you want to make it home."
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Post by jrinlv315 on May 20, 2009 19:42:18 GMT -5
Just another reason why Kliff is the man, we are all lucky to have him on "OUR" team. Mega karma point to him.....JR
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Post by numbski on May 21, 2009 6:53:34 GMT -5
Well, now I at least understand Kiiff's warning about slowing down until I can re-gear or I'll pop a spring!  So Kliff - where can I get gears of a proper ratio?  |
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Post by numbski on May 22, 2009 8:00:40 GMT -5
Have to look up my old thread - I think you were saying a 2.64:1 ratio, so that was be a 14mm/37mm ratio. I think?  |
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