Synthetic oil in break in?

all that may be true on cars and motorcycles but doubt it stands true for these "break if you look at it wrong" chineese scooters

THere's really no difference between synthetic oil, and regular oil, other than that regular oil breaks down a lot faster, and synthetic oil can act like a mix of oils (eg: 10W30 acts like 10 oil when cold, and 30 when hot).
Another thing, synthetic oil is $1 or $2 more expensive per bottle, which is a waste if you know you're going to remove the oil 100 miles later anyway.
But other than that, I see no reason why not to use synthetic oil for break in...

Aprilia ships with synthetic in the engine from the factory.

When talking about "current manufacturing technology" they are not talking about Chinese scooters using 20 year old engine designs. If your scooter performs better after breaking in, it needed to be broken in. Preventing a proper break in with synthetics would not be a good thing.

Wrong and wrong.

Synthetic is much more slippery and far more stable. It doesn't form varnishes and it does got get thinner with use: unlike non-synth and semi-synth.

For running in you need to google Motoman and follow his break in tips. Cheap oil for the first 20 mile thrash, flush out the swarf with a new change, the regular changes until 1,500 miles or so at which point the engine break-in can be stopped by switching to synthetic.

Just don't fall off on that initial thrash - and let it warm up with gentle riding first. The whole point of the manufacturers break-in periods are to allow the tyres to bed in and to stop you falling off on your new bike - so careful now!

Also for a scooter just use car grade oil - ideally formulated for diesel engines.

A direct quote from the Mobil oil website says this:

Why wouldn't they quote this? Sales go up when people believe things even if they aren't true.

A long, long, long time ago there was a myth about an unsinkable ship, let's see.................. ah yes, the Titanic and we all know about that myth.

Besides one can fine written proof and stories about engines failing due to synthetic oil break in problems but on the other hand, find stories about regular old, cheaper and dependable dino oil having this problem.

www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

Good reading here.

www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm


a rather interesting read on breaking in an engine.

You can actually break in with synthetic. I've done it before on a couple bikes I have kept to very long term minimum 25,000 miles each, both air cooled a Honda Rebel and GS500F, and suffered no ill effects. No loss in compression later on down the line or scuffed cylinders. The only thing is, with these engines, break in requires oil changes quite often because regardless of the oil you're going to get tiny metal particles shearing off the rough edges into the oil and without an oil filter these particles will float around grinding themselves onto moving parts.

So when I break in I actually change my oil at 25, 50, 100, 250, 500 and 1000 miles and then every 1000 miles after that. The reason why early oil changes are at such short intervals is I've actually run oil analyses on my oil and looked at it under a microscope. And those intervals actually were calculated to keep the oil at a minimum particle count without undue oil changes. Particles during break in build up on a logarithmic scale and that interval coincides with the logarithmic scale to keep particle counts at a steady low.

Being an engineer these kinds of things really intrigue me. I'm also a member of the bobistheoilguy forum. These guys all take their oil very seriously and the consensus form the top engineers and tribologists there is synthetic won't prevent break in. But the best thing you can do for your engine is change the oil quite often during break in, that's the way you minimize wear, synthetic won't impede the break in but you're changing the oil so often it just ends up needlessly costing you money for no net benefit so it's not needed but won't harm the engine.

And in that two minutes your cams will suffer and you'll gently polish the piston rings so your ring seal will be almost impossible to perfect.

The correct way is to start driving _immediately_ upon start-up to warm the engine up fast, keeping revs above 3,000 to get the cams to harden off properly. Then load the rings with alternate full power and full engine braking (full power will grind in the rings with the combustion pressure pushing them against the honing pattern, full engine braking will suck out the metal particles.

Motoman knows what he is talking about: his methods work extremely well and both my scooters (from new) have bags of power, use zero oil and soldier on regardless at any speed.

cars of the past where better made as well.
I remember a lady coming in the garage, because of an overheating issue with her car.
Turns out she never had changed her engine oil in !!!25 YEARS!!!
There was not much of oil left, just a cookie baked thing on the bottom. She just used the car to do groceries and back.

It took me a screwdriver, and hard hitting to crack open that 1 inch thick layer of metal flakes cookie, to have less oil come out than a small piss.

Globs:
doing WOT the very first moment you crank up the bike, can be disastrous! The rings could get damaged, and chip out parts instead of filing off pieces, they could get damaged, the piston could go out of alignment, the walls can tear as well. A speed of 2000rpm is more than fast enough to have the ring seated, and the piston walls shaving off the most uneven parts of the ring and reverse.
I do not believe your method is recommended. However, after having it running for a minute or so, and gradually building up the speed, I believe the procedure is much safer... My personal opinion though..

Do NOT break in the engine with synthetic oil. Instead, use high quality High Detergent motor oil:10W-30. I broke in my 70cc engine the same as motoman EXCEPT after the 2nd hard break-in I changed the oil every 100 miles until I reached 500 miles. Then I flipped over to synthetic blend. after 300 more miles I switched to Mobil 1 full synthetic 10w-30 and 10w-40 in Summer. Thereafter I changed the oil every 300 miles. I got 18,145 flawless miles out of that original engine before I had to rebuild it!
See Motomans link below:

www.youtube.com/watch?v=ekjEZp5Ows0

i used the following method for break in:
start scoot, let idle for roughly 5 minutes.
keep speeds below 30 mph for first 5 miles.
when scoot is thoroughly warmed up i rode it like i stole it, WOT until speedo indicated 55-60 then completely close throttle and coast down to 30-35 then repeat constantly.
i've never used synthetic in my bike except for the final drive.

Perhaps it is true, however hit a bicycle with a modern car, and it's totalled.