|
|
Post by carasdad on Jan 28, 2012 18:50:53 GMT -5
Belt will no go on! A little history.....I was given a "new" Longbo LB50QT-22 '06) It sat in a guys shop and 0 miles on it. They were just using it for parts.....because back then...Chinese parts were hard to find. Anyway....got it all back together from parts I bought...looks new,runs great...and I just needed a belt.....so he gave me a Gates Kevlar one for it....669-18-30. Changed MANY belts and typically I just squeeze the rear pulley.....wedge the belt in a bit.....then slip it over the front shaft. Talk a bout a "No GO" on this one. It is close...off by only 1/2 inch. But pulley half's will not open at all....Belt still rides high on the rear pulley....Twist n turn don't work....not even a large set of vice grips to pull one side closer to the clutch bell. Anybody ever seen this and have any suggestions?...Clutch sheathe froze up maybe?.... I have never heard of that........help?   |
|
|
|
Post by carasdad on Jan 28, 2012 19:34:01 GMT -5
Btw...it has standard 3.50 10 tires...so it must be short case....but the engine is marked LB1P39QMB....vice the normal 1P39QMB...we are used to. Does LB mean long block/case?.....or is simply meaning it is imported by Longbo?.....anybody ever hear of this model?
|
|
|
|
Post by D-cat on Jan 28, 2012 20:22:26 GMT -5
LB is the manufacturer code, so it would be for LongBo.
I would take the clutch off and separate it from the rear pulley. Once the torque spring is out, you can tell if there is a definite issue with the rear sheathe being jammed up and possibly how to fix it. It may just be shreds from the old belt. Worst case, replacements aren't terribly expensive.
|
|
|
|
Post by qwertydude on Jan 28, 2012 21:23:43 GMT -5
If it's got a lot of miles the pulley halves can get seized up because of a loss of lubrication. If so then you're gonna have to remove the rear pulley and see if there's shredded belts and lube the sheave.
|
|
|
|
Post by justbuggin on Jan 28, 2012 22:01:27 GMT -5
guys he says it has no miles on it it was a dealer parts bike so in that case it could be just the qwrong belt scrappydawg has an list on his site that tells what motor it is with the numbers stamp on it . i would pull the clutch apart and clean it and make sure it is not frozen up from sitting
|
|
|
|
Post by yoshidawg on Jan 28, 2012 22:49:08 GMT -5
If it has a 2000 rpm torque spring in it it will seem locked up. Mine is extremely hard to get started and held open, watch you're fingers.
|
|
|
|
Post by medman1952 on Jan 28, 2012 23:15:37 GMT -5
I'm under the impression that on a 50cc you can not just squeeze the rear one to open it up and slip a new one on. you wanted to do this I take it www.youtube.com/watch?v=RocD4REOJ0Y  |
|
|
|
Post by carasdad on Jan 29, 2012 0:00:59 GMT -5
Nope....now what I was trying to do....cause you CANNOT...expand the real pulley.....it will not budge or collapse...no matter which you turn it...or hard hard you squeeze it....
|
|
|
|
Post by medman1952 on Jan 29, 2012 0:07:50 GMT -5
|
|
|
|
Post by carasdad on Jan 29, 2012 10:04:41 GMT -5
medman1952...I always remove the front pulley first....it simply will wedge deep enough down inside the rear pulley.....no matter how hard I squeeze the halves..or which direction I try to rotate it.... |
|
|
|
Post by ce on Jan 29, 2012 21:58:28 GMT -5
Stick a brake spoon in the pulley and pry it apart, just be careful not to mar the face of the two sides. Push the belt in to wedge it further apart.
|
|
|
|
Post by D-cat on Jan 30, 2012 12:28:07 GMT -5
Well, the sheathe twists a little as you pull it apart, so using any kind of pry bar is probably not a good idea. You should be able to pry it by hand, though keeping it pried while fitting a belt might be another story if it's stronger than stock. I still stand by if you can't pull it by hand, take it apart to find out why. Brent (90GTVert) has a simple method that I have used (hint, you have feet too) to get a clutch apart and back together, it only take a few minutes unless something is really really wrong.
|
|
|
|
Post by rockynv on Jan 30, 2012 12:32:15 GMT -5
The grease could have dried up and the sheeves stuck on the hardend grease. You really need to take the clutch off and check it out on the work bench so you can free it up and apply fresh grease.
|
|
|
|
Post by carasdad on Jan 30, 2012 17:18:47 GMT -5
Got it on! thanks all for the input. Had to remove clutch....to find the sheathe was frozen....  So I cleaned and greased it....  |
|
|
|
Post by qwertydude on Jan 30, 2012 17:21:12 GMT -5
I try to tell people that all the time, lube the sliding sheave and pins. The sliding sheave needs to be lubed on a regular basis I lube it every other oil change. You get a longer lasting rear pulley and smoother more consistent shifting.
|
|
|
|
Post by carasdad on Jan 30, 2012 18:38:13 GMT -5
I try to tell people that all the time, lube the sliding sheave and pins. The sliding sheave needs to be lubed on a regular basis I lube it every other oil change. You get a longer lasting rear pulley and smoother more consistent shifting. yes but...read up....above...I got the scoot new...zero miles.....free...only missing throttle cable..battery....cdi starter relay..with no belt..it was a dealers parts bike..so it never was run or saw gas. Therefore ...that is why I never kept it lubed. |
|
|
|
Post by qwertydude on Jan 31, 2012 12:21:57 GMT -5
Chinese grease dries into a combination of mud and rust when put on metal.
|
|
|
|
Post by medman1952 on Feb 1, 2012 2:02:07 GMT -5
|
|
|
|
Post by carasdad on Feb 1, 2012 8:36:58 GMT -5
medman1952..tx.....not that is slick as hell! I hope others watch this....or post it in the tips or tech section. I got the belt on.....the sheathe was was frozen up... |
|
So I cleaned and greased it.... 