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Post by leepotter on Mar 24, 2012 18:40:51 GMT -5
Just thought I'd start a thread just for the ATM50-A1. Post anything pertaining to the ATM50-A1 model. Mods, maintenance, videos, etc. Attachments:
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Post by leepotter on Mar 24, 2012 18:42:34 GMT -5
PVC Scoop Mod: Attachments:
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Post by Fred on Mar 24, 2012 18:50:39 GMT -5
I'll post all my mods tonight glad to see we have our own thread!
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Post by tedwards1222 on Mar 25, 2012 17:44:19 GMT -5
Anything info on these scooters will be nice. There are alot of tao tao atm riding around.
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Post by leepotter on Mar 25, 2012 17:57:43 GMT -5
I got 270km on mine and love it! I actually ordered another one.
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Post by justin1 on Mar 25, 2012 19:39:55 GMT -5
I am looking to buy a Tao Tao ATM50-A1 or a similar scooter. There are not any stores around my area to but one in person. Does anyone have any experience ordering one from a website?
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Post by leepotter on Mar 25, 2012 19:55:01 GMT -5
They cheapest place i've found is provenpowersports.com $639 shipping included. Their customer service isnt the best out there but the price is good. Took me 2 months to get my MCO/Bill Of Sale. I did a good PDI and replaced the recommended thing right off the bat : Fuel Filter, Oil, gear oil, fuel lines, vacuum lines. I haven't had a lick of trouble with it yet.
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Post by justin1 on Mar 25, 2012 19:59:51 GMT -5
They cheapest place i've found is provenpowersports.com $639 shipping included. Their customer service isnt the best out there but the price is good. Took me 2 months to get my MCO/Bill Of Sale. I did a good PDI and replaced the recommended thing right off the bat : Fuel Filter, Oil, gear oil, fuel lines, vacuum lines. I haven't had a lick of trouble with it yet. Thanks for the reply.That was also the cheapest site I had found. The fact that it took 2 months for you to receive the MCO/Bill of Sale is similar to other reviews that I had read about the site. I am hoping to find somewhere to order from that might be a little more expensive but can get the MCO to me faster. The scooter will be basically worthless to me without it being registered and the MCO is necessary to register it.
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Post by timber on Mar 25, 2012 20:22:31 GMT -5
I got mine for $619 on the web from scooterdoctor, but here I am a month later and still no MCO, tho Im told it was mailed Thursday, they said that a week before too, but this week I filed a dispute which got their attention, so well see.
I have no issues buying from a web site, and they ship to your door so that's a good thing. I won't recommend to you the dealer I went to, so keep looking and asking around.
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Post by inuyasha on Mar 25, 2012 20:29:42 GMT -5
I am looking to buy a Tao Tao ATM50-A1 or a similar scooter. There are not any stores around my area to but one in person. Does anyone have any experience ordering one from a website? Hi Talk to Greg at Mainely scooters mainelyscooters.com/Or Jim at Rapid repair www.rapidrepair.webs.com/Both are top notch dealers and are good friends to us all Take care and ride safely Yours Hank
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Post by timber on Mar 26, 2012 0:54:50 GMT -5
Ok here's a good question;
I see there is a timing chain adjuster in the 49cc 139 QMB engine, but have yet to see any posts about that particular part, or when/if it needs adjustment. I think this part is a new thing to me as I don't remember running into one of these before on any other engines, certainly none I've worked on anyway.
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Post by leepotter on Mar 26, 2012 6:40:01 GMT -5
The adjuster should be under the black shroud near the intake. It should be self adjusting. It keeps the timing chain tight as it wears.
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Post by rich5857 on Mar 26, 2012 9:27:20 GMT -5
I've had nothing but problems with mine, I'm trying to just get it started now.... I've posted a bunch of threads on here about it. Any help you guys can give would be awesome.
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Post by leepotter on Mar 26, 2012 9:33:53 GMT -5
What problems are you having?
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Post by rich5857 on Mar 26, 2012 9:58:49 GMT -5
You can just click on my name there on the left and it will take you to my profile where you can read some of my threads... But basically it won't start. It turns over and if i give it full throttle it turns over faster, but wont start. I was having problems with it dying at idle and losing power. It got harder and harder to start. I figured it was a dirty carb. I replaced the carb, fuel lines, vacuum lines, spark plug and fuel filter. Now it won't start at all. I'm hoping it's not an internal engine problem. I'm going to try to get my hands on a compression gauge and see if I have good compression. Everything else seams fine.
It has about 1500 KM on it (according to the chinometer). And I had to have the piston replaced shortly after I purchased it. I didn't do the work myself so I don't know exactly what happened, but I remember the mechanic saying the "piston wasn't setting right" or something along those lines. I wouldn't be surprised if it happened again and that's what my problem is. But I'm also wondering if i did something wrong hooking everything back up when i did the carb swap. I've checked and checked again, but I'll look everything over again I guess. I need to find a compression gauge but i don't want to spend 40 bucks...
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Post by timber on Mar 26, 2012 12:20:47 GMT -5
I replaced my carb yesterday, and the new one had a #75 main and an H35 pilot, I replaced the #75 with a #80. Started up ok, idles real nice and smooth unlike before with the original carb.
Took it out for a ride (73 degrees F) and it seemed to have a little power "flat spot" I noticed around 1/4 throttle I think. Today it was 50-52 degrees F out and it started fine, and I let it warm up while I put my shoes on and got on my day-glo vest and helmet etc, but going to take off it starts to bog down right off with say 1/8 to 1/4 throttle, but recovers right away if I let off the throttle completely, or open it wide. If I open it wide it has loads of pickup power and it's liek the power suddenly kicks in.
So I am thinking from what I've read so far, I need to change that other jet now too, the one stamped H35 to a larger one, any thoughts on if I am correct in this and on what size larger jet given the above info, should I try?
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Post by wile on Mar 26, 2012 12:39:07 GMT -5
I think all it needs is a little carb adjustment, to eliminate the bogging at 1/8-1/4 throttle. Let it warm up then adjust the Fuel Ratio to get the highest Idle out of it. Then if the rear wheel is spinning due to the higher Idle lower the idle using the Idle Speed screw to where the rear wheel just wants to move. Wile
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Post by timber on Mar 26, 2012 18:55:09 GMT -5
I think all it needs is a little carb adjustment, to eliminate the bogging at 1/8-1/4 throttle. Let it warm up then adjust the Fuel Ratio to get the highest Idle out of it. Then if the rear wheel is spinning due to the higher Idle lower the idle using the Idle Speed screw to where the rear wheel just wants to move. Wile I did do that yesterday, in fact it was running well and I drove it about 7 miles, it did have a slight "bog down" about 1/8 throttle or 1/4 but minimal, today it's much worse but it's also 20 degrees cooler. I opened up the original carb and it has a #78 Main and a #30 pilot, the replacement carb came with a #75 main and a # 35 pilot, I replaced the #75 with a #80 but left the #35 pilot. So I thought it wasn't getting enoug gas with the 35 and that it would have to go larger as from what Ive read about this symptom it's not getting enough gas before the main kicks in at 1/4 throttle. So I was very surprised to see the original carb has a #30 pilot which now has me confused and maybe it's getting too MUCH gas with the 35 instead of as I thought- too little. They are the same carb, so the original jet sizes should fit, and should run as before. With the original carb it never idled well at all and was difficult to get it to stay at any one idle speed, and would often stall when the choke turned off, but it RAN very well through all throttle positions. This other carb runs the idle beautifully smooth and even, and when first taking off, but at the transistion point around 1/4 throttle or a little less, it gags and loses power and wants to stall. Soon as I let off the throttle it right away recovers and idles, or if I open it half or more it will suddenly get a burst of power and quickly get up to speed very well. So it's the transistion point between the two jets I believe, or seems to be. I suppose I could try the 30 and see if that does it. What do you think now with this new info based on the actual jets sizes now that I KNOW them?
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Post by mainepeace on Mar 27, 2012 3:23:40 GMT -5
You might as well try swapping the 30 idle jet in there, but based on what you describe you need a 38 or 40 idle jet. However, you won't know until you try it.
Greg
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Post by timber on Mar 27, 2012 8:18:21 GMT -5
You might as well try swapping the 30 idle jet in there, but based on what you describe you need a 38 or 40 idle jet. However, you won't know until you try it. Greg Thanks Greg, yeah that's what *I* thought I would need to do, go larger than I have, but the wierd thing is the original carb has a 30 idle and the main was a 78. It ran well even accelleration across the throttle range no stumbling, but idled like crap etc The new carb had a 35 idle which is still in it, and a 75 main which I changed to 80, I would htink as you said, that 38 or 40 for the idle is what's needed, yet the original carb has a 30 which doesn't make sense to me unless there's some minor internal differences between the carbs (they LOOK the same in every way to the eye) that I cant see. I'm new to this rejetting process, though I have heard of it and have torn down carbs for cleaning/rebuilding, but never had to rejet one before and never gave it any thought.
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Post by timber on Mar 27, 2012 19:38:46 GMT -5
Ok I ordered the 38 and 40 Greg It's running better today than yesterday, it was about 72 degrees, so I think the 38 is probably going to be the cure, but having a couple of sizes I can play with it as needed.
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Post by Fred on Mar 28, 2012 10:21:36 GMT -5
I think for my next set of upgrades im going to get the 38/40 idle jet (need to check what is already in there) racing cdi upgraded ignition coil and debating with the cvk 20 mm carb or the exhaust still don't know which I want to do first.
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Post by leepotter on Apr 3, 2012 20:50:52 GMT -5
Just got my order in today! Attachments:
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Post by leepotter on Apr 3, 2012 20:51:36 GMT -5
My Dad had me order 2 for him and his wife. And I got a second one. Attachments:
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Post by mjhglock on Apr 3, 2012 21:11:49 GMT -5
Yall think you could install a larger main jet on the stock none adjustable carb to get more Top end speed and stop from running to lean? You think u would run into any F&A mix problems?
2012 Tao Tao 50
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Post by mainepeace on Apr 3, 2012 22:49:50 GMT -5
You can if you can get it open. You should also replace the idle jet with a 35
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Post by mjhglock on Apr 4, 2012 10:52:28 GMT -5
Why is it hard to get them open?
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Post by Fred on Apr 4, 2012 14:53:50 GMT -5
They are sealed off, instead of wasting time and possibly destroying the carb in the process just by one thats adjustable, even after you get the case off you still need to adjust the a/f and that is capped off also.
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Post by tedwards1222 on Apr 4, 2012 17:54:42 GMT -5
Question, thinking about changing the wheels on my atm. What will be the best size to change to. 12 inch wheels?
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Post by timber on Apr 4, 2012 21:28:59 GMT -5
Im not sure 12" will fit, you will have to measure your current wheel and add an inch to the outside of it and see it that inch less clearance will hit something- the fender, the frame or some other component.
If you change to 12" you'll lose some power, you'll increase speed a little, your speedometer and odometer will be very inaccurate.
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