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Post by phillylightguy on Dec 20, 2011 0:58:31 GMT -5
Uncle! I give up! Any thoughts?    |
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Post by skuttadawg on Dec 20, 2011 1:14:44 GMT -5
Some have anti tamper cover over the fuel/air mixture screw
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Post by TERRA NUVO on Dec 20, 2011 2:34:41 GMT -5
skip trip to eye doctor
see picture 3
little brass cap below butterfly nut, its in there.
see others here for advice on getting it out, and don't listen to MainePeace scooters, he will tell you to bite it out, i tried it and ruined my carb.
and do post make, name and year of bike in your signature
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Post by imnts2 on Dec 20, 2011 8:01:33 GMT -5
Good way to ask the question. Good luck and welcome. Sometimes it helps to let us know where you are at.
cheers lefty2
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Post by burnsscoot on Dec 20, 2011 9:48:33 GMT -5
Funny, I was looking for this very same thing last night. I thought the same thing...I give up! Where the crap is it??? I guess I'll be drilling out the plug this afternoon. I just installed 5g sliders yesterday, and the acceleration was crazy when I first took off. The temp was somewhere in the 20's, but as the scoot warmed up, it got a little less peppy. I'm figuring that the carb adjustment should cure that.
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Post by mainepeace on Dec 20, 2011 13:17:03 GMT -5
Easiest way is to drill a tiny hole using a 1/8 to 1/16 bit. The cap is only about 1/4" thick so be VERY careful you don't drill into the screw as it's very easy to do and you won't necessarily feel it. Also, be very careful you don't slide the bit into the soft casing. Use a scratch awl or a screwdriver and scratch an X where you want the bit to go. Works really well.
Use a drywall screw into the hole, keep turning and you will just pop the cap out in seconds.
It normally takes me about 2 minutes to pop a cap now.
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Post by burnsscoot on Dec 20, 2011 13:28:31 GMT -5
Is it possible to do without removing the carb?
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Post by burnsscoot on Dec 20, 2011 13:40:00 GMT -5
Maybe there's enough room to get a Dremel in there with only a very short piece of bit sticking out of the chuck.
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Post by jimboeau on Dec 20, 2011 14:33:00 GMT -5
Easiest way is to drill a tiny hole using a 1/8 to 1/16 bit. The cap is only about 1/4" thick so be VERY careful you don't drill into the screw as it's very easy to do and you won't necessarily feel it. Also, be very careful you don't slide the bit into the soft casing. Use a scratch awl or a screwdriver and scratch an X where you want the bit to go. Works really well. Use a drywall screw into the hole, keep turning and you will just pop the cap out in seconds. It normally takes me about 2 minutes to pop a cap now. My understanding is that not all "cap-covered" carbs have the screw underneath.... is that correct? |
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Post by skuttadawg on Dec 20, 2011 21:39:02 GMT -5
Would be easier just to get another carb
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Post by mechaniczman on Dec 20, 2011 21:47:29 GMT -5
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Post by phillylightguy on Dec 20, 2011 22:42:30 GMT -5
Thanks everyone, your advice was spot on. I did what mainepeace said and gently drilled a 3/32" hole in the cap, which because it's soft brass came out with no trouble at all. Even more miraculously, I got the carb hooked up again and it actually started up (after a bunch of kicks). It's the little victories, right? So I think I found the sweet spot in the A/F where the throttle responds crisply, at least with the engine warm. The instructions in this post were a big help. Aside from that, the key was taking my time and listening very closely to the engine speed. I'll find out on the next cold start whether or not it still runs as well as it did warm, but for now it seems to be a big improvement. However the idle still wanders pretty noticeably. I was hoping the A/F adjustment would fix that. Any ideas what this should be? Do I need to check the valves? Or could it have to do with the fact that the engine is still far from being broken in? About that: apparently there's some issue with certain imported vehicles that causes PennDOT to refuse to register them. I'm told it has to do with the manufacturer, not the model, but aside from that I can't get a straight answer on what it is. I've definitely seen other Taotaos with PA plates, so I'm pretty sure I'm not going to have a problem, but what it means for me now is that I have to wait to get my plate in the mail before I can legally ride. I think that will be around 3 or 4 weeks. So it will be a while before I can get it break it in, but I have a while to learn how to work on it... |
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Post by bigr on Dec 21, 2011 7:06:42 GMT -5
I have the sme scoot as you. When you drill out the brass. Do put tape over the screw because it will back out on you. The best thing i did was getba better carb.
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Post by terry on Dec 21, 2011 7:17:42 GMT -5
I also live in PA. It took me about 6 weeks to get the tag. The DMV has a list of VIN numbers. If your scooter does not start with a number on that list, they will not issue a tag until they do some research. They want to make sure the VIN is from a legitimate company.
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Post by mainepeace on Dec 21, 2011 12:53:24 GMT -5
A wandering idle is generally due to a lean condition. Even though it may *sound* strong it is probably a bit lean. They are ultra-lean from the factory, especially with the tamper proof carbs like what you have.
Two recommendations. Either replace the idle jet with a #35 or replace the carb. It's better to just replace the carb as it's much easier to get into the bowl to clean it and replace the jets. Unless you have a screw extractor set you won't be able to get your bowl off with the tamper-proof screws on it now.
Greg
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,,,,2 LEVEL TABLESPOONS AND 15 more cc's from lowered engine friction weight--go here-
