How much does a scooter weigh when melted?

I have a 2009 model of one of these btw. if that helps with identifying what the common problems are and where I may need to look.

Alarms cause battery issues! In most cases you can just remove the fuse, which is in the alarm wiring, if no fuse you can cut the power wire. There is also a post somewhere, can't locate it now, that talks about completely removing the alarm, some alarms you can just pull out and others require a jumper.

Jim/Owner
Rapid Repair

PS about 110 llbs.

Some scooters are hard to start with the kick start. You need to determine if it is a fuel issue or a spark issue. Check to see if you have spark, since you are kicking it you will need help. You can check if it is fuel related by using a small "wiff" of carb cleaner or starting fluid directly into the throat of the carb.

Jim

No that is the vacuum slide, where the air tube connects for the air filter box.

Ok, I took the battery out and checked the terminals and ll seemed fine, nothing works though, horn, lights nothing? I took the plug out and got a spark ok, it looked weak but then it was day light and I did it alone, anyway, I put it back in and it fired, but didn't really stay running for more than a second or two. I noticed that the rubber connection from the carb to the head was split and I could see a puff of smoke coming from that when I kicked it over.....could this be why it isn't starting, too much air? I am going to order a new one tomorrow.
Is there anything else I should look for whilst I am waiting for the part to arrive....can take 2 days here in Sweden.
Anyone have any ideas why the battery is flat? It seemed to be fine until I put proper connecters on the terminal, ie. screwed the connectors to it rather than them just laying there with the pressure of the sheath!

It feels like I am rebuilding this whole thing!

Hi Jim,

I checked the fuse lats night and it looked fine, I am not sure if I know where my battery charger is as it has been packed up since I moved to Sweden 5 years ago....I will try to find it....is there any other way to check the battery charge?

I ordered the carburettor holder assembly today, I am hoping that will solve the starting issue and maybe explain the bogging I have been getting (although I shall adjust the valves too anyway). The split was about 5 cms long.

Sweden, based on my reading your post it appears since none of your lights, horn, or starter work you still have and electrical problem. Since most Chinese scooters use very cheap fuses, (glass with small wire inside), they can appear fine in appearance but if you check them with a multi-meter they will be open. I strongly suggest you replace the fuse holder with and automotive type blade fuse rated at whatever rating your current fuse is. The fuse is generally located on or near the positive battery lead near the battery. There may be one other fuse up front near the key switch. If once you turn the key to on and you still have no horn or starter power you probably have a wiring issue in the harness. These harnesses are cheaply made and the bullet connectors can easily get pulled apart or the wire pinched causing the problems your encountering. The battery can be tested using a 12 volt bulb if you don't have a meter, just hold one end on the positive post of the battery and a wire over to ground to the ground on the bulb. If the light is bright you know at least you have some voltage, if it's dim or doesn't light you have a bad battery/dead battery. You can try to charge the battery with a battery charger but be sure you use the lowest setting, ie, 2-amps or less. Good luck and hope you get it running soon!

Gary

Some models work with just the key turned on, like the one I have. Some use AC to power the headlight and won't turn on till you start the engine. Since I know nothing about your scooter or how it's wired I can't say for sure which type you have. A good clue though is that it will turn the starter motor with brake handle pressed, key on and no other interlock safety features enabled.
I replaced the fuse system on mine during the initial PDI, it used a crappy glass fuse that was very cheaply installed. I cut out that section of wiring and installed the blade type automotive fuse and soldered the connections and then used heat shrink tubing over the bare wires. I also carry a pack of 15 amp spare fuses under my seat incase it every blows.

Gary

Hi guys, well, I fitted the carburetor assembly today and the bike fired up fine, still not running well so I am going to attempt the valve adjustment this afternoon after I have taken my little girl for a sphere ball walk on the river Hopefully then things will be fine, if not I will be back to ask for some more advice, is the adjustment 0.4 on the inlet and 0.5 on the outlet?

As for the battery, well, nothing works on the ignition but everything works fine with the engine running......so do I really need to do anything with the battery, I mean, I don't need to indicate anywhere when it isn't running???

I am happy I have it running but I really hope I can get it running well now and I am hoping it is the valves as I can't seem to make it any better with the AF adjustment.....could the jets all be wrong in the carb?

OK, I have adjusted the valves (hooray for me, no longer the valve neophyte!) It wasn't too bad thanks to the video and tutorial pics on here, thanks for that.
I took it for a ride to get it warmed up and it is still bogging at full throttle and lazy up hills, not very big hills either, I have tried the AF adjustment (again) and it is still doing the same. I am opening the air screw up 2 and a half turns and then fiddling with it by 1/4 of a turn both ways and it still isn't improving.

I feel I only have 2 things left to try now, a new spark plug or take the carb apart and see if it has been upjetted or something, is there anything else I can try.......I am feeling pretty handy after doing the valves , I am not feeling very successful though!

Chucking down with rain now so I guess I won't be doing more today.

Just for a recap on what I have done so far:

Installed an air filter that was originally missing.
Installed an air inlet pipe on the bottom of the crank cover that was missing.
Adjusted the valves.
Played around numerous times with the AF on the carb.

Doesn't sound like much but I seem to have spent several hours in total on it.

Yeah, I was thinking that was the next place. What size jets should I have in the carb as standard? What is the best way to clean the carb?

It would seem more like you got dirt in your carb and jarred it loose when you hit the speed bump. Take a look at Big Guy's Carb cleaning 101 video on here and that will help you, as I said before, upjetting is always a good thing. I recommend a #90 but experiment somewhere around that. If you DID get a substantial amount of dirt in your carb, you may want to take off the head and see the condition of the piston, you could have a gunky dirt buildup on the top of it or worse yet, damage. Be sure to check your timing markings before you remove the cam and make sure the engine is at TDC when you do.

OK, when I got home last night, it sounded like my valve had come lose, it wasn't running so great so I guess I didn't tighten them enough, I thought I had, so tonight I am going back in, what do I have to do to check the piston surface whilst I am on there, pictures would be good if anyone knows the loacation of some, gonna do that carb too as it is looking like we may have a dry day in sweden, hopefully that wont be the only miracle today!!!