Joined: Jun 2011 Gender: Male Posts: 39 Location: Atlanta, Ga
2004 Vento Triton R4 « Thread Started on Apr 3, 2012, 11:42pm »
I just picked up a 2004 Vento Triton R4 with 1965 miles on it. It has definitely been weathered quite a bit and needs some work. The front fairing has turned a different yellow somehow( what the guy i bought it from said), there is rust EVERYWHERE, and other than that the scoot runs, 35-40 flat and 50+ slight downhill, White smoke emits from exhaust(possibly lean?). I also hear a very loud whomp....whomp...whomp from my CVT, the faster i go the faster it goes, then it settles and starts all over( possibly the variator?) the belt looked fine. I think its time to OVERHAUL . Remote Lock/ Remote Start doesnt work, where could the origin of my problem be? what is a good rust removal technique for Steel Frame/ Aluminum wheels/ exhaust? What are good roller weights for my weight i weigh 130, and sometimes my woman likes to ride with me and she weighs 100. As for the body, I intend to sand with a very fine grit sand paper, prime, coat, clear coat, clear coat. With the frame: completely restore the finish, and get out that rust that has accumulated, powder coat white. Replace all lines with quality lines. Possibly remove the oil pump,( what is the benefit of premixing?)
for cleaning rust a wire wheel on a drill motor works ok. i have the same year and color as yours, since mine had no compression when i got it, i installed a cast iron bbk from autotech355. i would put my $ into the bbk rather than powder coat a frame no one sees, a rustoleum black job would be a low coat alternative. mine has the oil injector stuff removed, there was evidence that the pump was leaking when i got it. i removed the drive gears for the pump and the oil tank. with premix you never need to worry about a pump failure. i also removed the vacuum petcock and replaced it with gravity feed and a inline manual petcock. i then went through the electrical plugs and applied dielectric grease. mind the blinkers they are surprisingly expensive! other items added were a battery tender jr plugin and a dellorto clone carb with a manual choke. i have over 2k miles on that setup with zero problems.
well, i dont want to go the bbk route. I want to swap the 1PE40QMB with this: http://www.partsforscooters.com/90cc-2-stroke-1PE50QMF-Engine. It's going to be an overhaul project. I really dont like rust :@ after the 90cc upgrade, i will be upgrading my carb to a 28mm keihin, installing a Leovince ZX exhaust. then shortly after that, I'll be upgrading my transmission with polini's speed control variator with 3x 4.5g and 3x 3.5g rollers, with 5 gram sliders, along with a stage 6 adjustable screw clutch. Thirdly, NCY Alternator kit, and custom hid's. im here for advice, constructive criticism, and some quick tips to take toward my custom build if you will.
ScootOn'Em - If you want one of those engines, you better get it quick. We only have a couple left, and when they are gone, they are gone. The 90cc 2t Minarelli engines no longer have EPA certification so Customs is not letting them into the country anymore. Food for thought.
ScootOn'Em - If you want one of those engines, you better get it quick. We only have a couple left, and when they are gone, they are gone. The 90cc 2t Minarelli engines no longer have EPA certification so Customs is not letting them into the country anymore. Food for thought.
Matt
Hi Matt Now thats very bad news, im quite depressed on finding that out Take care and ride safely dear friend Yours Hank
dr1445 - Looking into it, but Customs is really bearing down on this kind of stuff right now. Pain in the butt really. The same thing happened to the 80cc QMB engine; you'll notice they are no longer on our website. We are going to have to get creative on this one, but sadly the days of the plug n' play 90cc 2t (and 80cc 4t) are numbered. I'm seriously contemplating just grabbing one for myself, just to have for when I find a good donor scooter.
inuyasha - Nice ride! I had an SR 50, what a fun scoot.
matt- ill actually be ordering it very soon probably next week, would you be so kind as to keep one on hand? I've been planning this out for such a long time.
dr1445, i do love the aprilia sr50. However, i would save money upgrading what i have vs. buying a new scoot. Besides, i love putting in time, elbow grease, and patience into projects by planning in order, step by step. I'm excited to restore the 1pe40qmb motor and possibly learning a thing or two in the process.
a 28mm keihin is overkill for the the port timing on an air cooled 90. as an example, a watercooled suzuki rm80 uses a flat side 28mm carb, i think the kawasaki kx85 also uses a 28 flatside. i decided not to build a fast 50cc scooter and instead am working on a 1974 bultaco 250. thats an aircooled 2t with no reed valve and it gets along with a mikuni 28mm flatside. also the stator from the vento 50 should fit the 90, eliminating electrical plug incompatibility.
ScootOn'Em - I'm sorry but I can't hold product, we are strictly first come first serve. Not only do we manage the PartsForScooters.com website but we are a part distributor for well over 1000 dealers nationwide, so the availability policy is one that we have to abide by. I apologize, I'm not trying to be a jerk, it is just how we have to do business due to the scope of our operation.
ScootOn'Em - I'm sorry but I can't hold product, we are strictly first come first serve. Not only do we manage the PartsForScooters.com website but we are a part distributor for well over 1000 dealers nationwide, so the availability policy is one that we have to abide by. I apologize, I'm not trying to be a jerk, it is just how we have to do business due to the scope of our operation.
Matt
Hey, thats no problem at all, just because you tell me no doesnt mean i think you're a jerk
Quote:
a 28mm keihin is overkill for the the port timing on an air cooled 90.
yes you're very right, but not for water cooling. After some research/ data collection, ill be sticking with a 26mm hoca carb. cheaper.
Quote:
Besides, I'm going to buy those 3 engines and resell them on the black market for millions!
Just purchased my 1PE50QMF, cant wait to install this puppy. what can i expect to have to change in order for my stock setup to run smooth? obviously a bigger main jet #105 maybe #110? in the process of swapping engines, im going to start on the new paint.
start rich and work to lean, a little more time but better than squeaking a piston. you might want to consider raising your needle one notch to start also.
Penny had just as much fun as i did, it was like christmas all over again for us
Before i bolt this bad ass motor on, do i HAVE to install the 50cc stator on this 90cc engine for everything to work? Or can i just use the 90cc stator, as it is brand new.
i never did that engine swap but odds are the stator plugs are different. even if the plugs are the same the wires could go to different pins in the plug..so you need to either just try it, chase the plug wires and compare with a vom or change the stator. the last 2 can be done with the engines out.
Joined: Jun 2011 Gender: Male Posts: 39 Location: Atlanta, Ga
2004 Vento Triton R4 « Reply #21 on Apr 18, 2012, 3:03am via the ProBoards Mobile App »
Well I already got started and I didn't change out the stator. The wires from the new engine were l red with a black with a red stripe, and red with a white stripe. I plugged the red with a white stripe to the wiring harnesses white striped plug, and the black with a red stripe, to the wiring harnesses red striped wire. So hopefully this is correct. I'll test with a volt meter tomorrow. With this engine, I had to do some modification to the bar that bolts to the frame. The right side was 3" from the case, and the left side was 2". Had to cut to match the previous bar from the old engine. The intake was also pointing in a direction that wouldn't allow me to install the carb, so I swapped the old intake as well. In order to richen the mixture a bit, do I move the needle washer up (towards the throttle cable) or down (towards the engine)?
raise the needle = rich, lower the needle = lean. have a look in the carb throat and raise the slide. you can see the needle extends into the needle jet, raising the needle makes a bigger hole to allow more fuel past. in the end you raise the needle by lowering the clip.
Joined: Jun 2011 Gender: Male Posts: 39 Location: Atlanta, Ga
2004 Vento Triton R4 « Reply #23 on Apr 18, 2012, 10:48am via the ProBoards Mobile App »
Awesome, thank you Dr1445 for clarifying the needle issue I was having. With the voltmeter test, what should the correct readings be for positive and negative leads? your help has been wonderful my friend thank you! All I have left to do is reattach the carb after a thorough cleaning, remove rear wheel from the old engine, then reattach the exhaust after knocking off some rust. However, My main jet is a #70. I feel that my motor is going to be thirsty. Therefore more fuel and oil is needed. I feel an #80 or #85 would be about right. Then when I go free filter and new exhaust, I'll upjet to #95 or #100. Is there a proper way to adjust how much oil is fed to my engine, and how do I know it is receiving proper oiling other than premixing? My engine obviously came with a new oil pump, as I dont want to get rid of the oil pump just yet. I'm working on a paint design with photoshop, black, and silver will be the colors I stick with.
« Last Edit: Apr 18, 2012, 10:54am by ScootOn'Em »
i started with a #90 on the stock carb when i installed a cast iron bbk. i worked my lean to either an 80 or 75. main jet changes are almost painless so a #90 is a safe starting point. i never messed with the stator except to remove and replace to disable the oil pump. so i don't know much about the stator wiring or the oil pump. i read the oil pump can be bleed, but i do not know the procedure. maybe some one with more experience in those areas will jump in.
So the wiring i did was correct, future reference in case someone else does this swap on the 1PE50QMF motors, you just have to plug the white striped wires together, and the red and black striped wires together for proper stator functionality. when it first cranked up, it was very lean. Even after lowering my needle clip to allow the needle to raise. I adjusted my Air mixture screw, and backed it out 2 turns from where it was. call me a klutz , i was so excited to have it running that i forgot to turn it in until it stopped, and then count back that many, and then adjust from there. correct me if im wrong but, clockwise would richen the mix? I did however, take a 60 mile ride, and everything went very smooth, no siezes, but pure torque and power. i could keep up with traffic, and get up those big stubborn hills. i suggest this swap while supplies last. So far, it was worth every dollar. Next update will be the new front fork, and rear suspension. as well as the paint job
i put my 90cc $ into this ancient bultaco 250 project, after deciding a fast 50/90cc would top out at 60mph. so my vento will remain a 72cc. after a winters work, almost ready to tag.
Joined: Jun 2011 Gender: Male Posts: 39 Location: Atlanta, Ga
2004 Vento Triton R4 « Reply #27 on Apr 19, 2012, 6:34am via the ProBoards Mobile App »
That bultaco you've got looks rad!! I'm going to invest in a rebel once my tranny is tuned, 21mm cvk carb, paint is on, and exhaust installed. A buddy of mine is a welder for a fairly large company, and we've been talking about turning a rebel into a little softail. Should be a very fun project after my scoot is nice and tuned.
After about 400 miles of riding on the new enigine, max speed 50 flat 55+ downhill. I can finally keep up with traffic.In order for a perfect mixture with the stock 19mm carb, I had to raise my needle, lower my idle, and turn in my air screw 2 turns.
Joined: Jun 2011 Gender: Male Posts: 39 Location: Atlanta, Ga
Re: 2004 Vento Triton R4 « Reply #29 on May 2, 2012, 11:48am »
I have been itching to update you dawgs. So, i finally found the time to do a paint job.
Lord knows i need a garage.
Introducing, The Ghost Triton R4
Wheel paint will be next on my list. Moreover, Both of my shocks are very rusted so, ill be replacing my forks and rear suspension with Doppler Aerox front forks, and Doppler Aerox back forks. Continually, a future for the engine will be in store for the ghost. funds come in slow, but ill get there eventually.
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. Remote Lock/ Remote Start doesnt work, where could the origin of my problem be? what is a good rust removal technique for Steel Frame/ Aluminum wheels/ exhaust? What are good roller weights for my weight i weigh 130, and sometimes my woman likes to ride with me and she weighs 100. As for the body, I intend to sand with a very fine grit sand paper, prime, coat, clear coat, clear coat. With the frame: completely restore the finish, and get out that rust that has accumulated, powder coat white. Replace all lines with quality lines. Possibly remove the oil pump,( what is the benefit of premixing?)![[image]](http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/193/5n55i25mb3g63i33h1c3e56.jpg/ "[image]")
Logged04 Vento Triton R4 "Ghost" 90cc![[avatar]](http://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-snc7/483468_10151153318245669_1662989049_n.jpg "[avatar]")
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