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Post by daveofhutto on Apr 26, 2009 22:46:50 GMT -5
I can't find a picture of this motor in the sticky threads. I believe it is the Honda clone. Vertical, carb in front, exhaust on the right hand side and some dohickies  on the valve cover I spotted on a thread I can't find. The dohickies are used to set the valves. Had the procedure but the thread title wasn't about setting the valves. Anyone seen this thread and where it can be found?  |
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Post by earlwb on Apr 27, 2009 5:57:16 GMT -5
Reference this thread: scootdawg.proboards59.com/index.cgi?board=200cc&action=display&thread=18109From other 244cc engine users... remove CVT cover. remove spark plug. hold thumb over plug hole. turn variator nut CCW until compression is felt. turn variator an extra 1/4 to 1/3 turn. loosen adjusters at the top. turn adjusters outward (away from each other)until resistance is felt then inward (towards each other) one mark. replace plug and cover. a honda service manual will have the procedure. Instead of removing the CVT cover, remove the engine fan cover on the other side of the engine. There you'll see the rotor (part of the charging system) which has a mark on it. There is also a 'T' mark on the engine casing next to the rotor. Crank the engine around until the mark on the rotor lines up with the 'T' mark. That puts things in the correct position to adjust the valves. If you have skinny arms/fingers like me.. I adjust the valves on my 244cc engine while the scooter is running.. without removing any body parts.. with a single 8mm box wrench and a pair of latex gloves. The whole process takes less than 5 minutes once the engine is warmed up to operating temperature. -Adjust the valve clearance while the engine is WARM and running. With the side access panel removed to allow access to valve adjusters, run engine to normal operating temperature. -With machine on center stand or supported and idling, (increase idle speed slightly to prevent stalling) work on each adjuster in turn, loosen the adjuster quadrant clamp bolt and move the quadrant inwards a little (the motor will start to sound "tappety" ((valve clearance increasing)) followed by slowly moving the quadrant outward whereby you will notice the engine will become quieter (valve clearance decreasing). -When you reach the point that there is no tappet noise, hold quadrant in place and re-tighten clamp bolt. -If you go too far normally a misfire will appear or the engine stalls, the reason for increasing the idle speed. -A slightly loose tappet is less harmful than a tight one. I adjusted my valve at 600 miles on the odometer back in May08, ever since then the engine starts within a full crank of the engine, never have a problem with fuel starvation from OEM fuel pump, now just shy of 6000 miles on my scooter, it stills runs like a champ, even this morning at 36 degrees F. |
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Post by Gary on Apr 27, 2009 8:36:59 GMT -5
DaveO -
I used the cold method and found it very easy to do. The only difference is that I removed the spark plug and stuck a coat hanger in the hole to find top dead center. Worked well.
Gary
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Post by yoster on Jul 6, 2009 13:24:35 GMT -5
Hello Gary,
I know this post is old, but I have a question regarding your response. When you used a coat-hanger to find TDC, did you then still turn the variator 3/4, or did you adjust the adjusters once at TDC?
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Post by Gary on Jul 6, 2009 14:45:56 GMT -5
I adjusted them at TDC. Hopefully, that is what I was supposed to do .... seems to have worked OK anyway.
Gary
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Post by herb on Oct 16, 2009 19:30:29 GMT -5
Ok. I am about ready to give up the ghost, I have tried at least a dozen times using the method of removing the spark plug covering th hole with my thumb, turning the engine until I had compression coming from the hole. I then loosened the adjusters, spread them apart until I felt resistance and then moved them back in one notch. The engine will not start, I just smell a lot of gas fumes. Yea I did put the spark plug back in before trying to start. HELP, am I missing something here? I even checked behind the chrome screw, there is no mark on the flywheel. I tried numerous times to find a "F" mark or even a notch, no luck.
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Post by cruiser66 on Oct 16, 2009 20:47:59 GMT -5
Hi Herb, The preferred method of adjusting the valves is with the engine running after it is warmed up. Since you have already tried to adjust the valves and the engine is not running then you can try this from the Honda Helix manual: www.ch250.net/techtips/5.htmThe first part describes adjusting the valves on a cold engine while the later part of the article describes adjusting the valves with the engine running. Good Luck. 66 |
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Post by herb on Oct 17, 2009 13:07:15 GMT -5
Thanks for the info cruiser, I have been to this site previously and followed it to the letter several times, the engine just keeps on turning without starting. I'm not giving up yet but am really getting frustrated.
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Post by herb on Oct 17, 2009 15:13:52 GMT -5
I have gotten it started now, the problem is that when I give it gas the RPM gauge goes down instead of up like it should and it is running very rough. I have set it numerous times now to TDC and tried again. I have the same problem each time.
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Post by herb on Oct 17, 2009 15:19:08 GMT -5
I have a question, when you move the adjusters back one notch, is this supposed to actually set the vavles where they are supposed to be?
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Post by cruiser66 on Oct 17, 2009 18:21:26 GMT -5
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Post by leo on Oct 17, 2009 20:05:48 GMT -5
I have a question, when you move the adjusters back one notch, is this supposed to actually set the vavles where they are supposed to be? yes. |
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Post by herb on Oct 17, 2009 21:03:43 GMT -5
Thanks Leo and 66, I used the settings at half a mark and it started right up  but I still have a problem  The RPM gauge goes fine up to 3000RPM and then if I try to go past 3000RPM's it nose dives to zero and starts cutting out. I have not touched anything other than removing the spark plug, setting TDC and adjusting the valves...am I missing something that I should also be doing? |
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Post by herb on Oct 17, 2009 21:36:11 GMT -5
I have a question about the inspection hole on the top of the head. I removed the inspection plate to look for a mark for TDC. I thought it was supposed to be a punch mark on the cam, but when I looked in all I could see is a chain? where is the punch mark located? thanks for the help
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Post by cruiser66 on Oct 17, 2009 22:12:55 GMT -5
Thanks Leo and 66, I used the settings at half a mark and it started right up but I still have a problem The RPM gauge goes fine up to 3000RPM and then if I try to go past 3000RPM's it nose dives to zero and starts cutting out. I have not touched anything other than removing the spark plug, setting TDC and adjusting the valves...am I missing something that I should also be doing? Now that the scoot is running, you can use the preferred method of setting the valves (motor running and warmed up) if you feel like it. This will fine tune it if you don't have an exact adjustment. It sounds like you may have a fuel delivery problem or possible CDI problem. I would check with fuel delivery - maybe a blockage in the fuel passages of the carb or low fuel delivery because of a weak fuel pump. Here's a video on adjusting the valves with the engine running: www.youtube.com/watch?v=13DrozfGnOc66 |
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Post by herb on Oct 17, 2009 22:19:42 GMT -5
Thanks 66, I will go and try the setting with the engine running. You have been a great help
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Post by herb on Oct 18, 2009 14:05:14 GMT -5
Well everything seems to be working well as far as running, tomorrow I will be taking it out on a test run. Thanks again 66 and Leo you have been a life saver.
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Post by leo on Oct 18, 2009 15:36:58 GMT -5
get an iridium spark plug.
one of the best investments i've made for my scoot.
got mine at NAPA.
this one investment cured a lot of running problems.
for example, my scoot wouldn't run at a constant speed, i had to keep "working" the throttle.
they're expensive but worth it.
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Post by cruiser66 on Oct 18, 2009 15:53:16 GMT -5
If you have trouble finding an iridium plug, try an Autolite 4164 for about $1.69 at Advance Auto. Works very good in my YY250RO.
66
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Post by christoforous on Oct 31, 2009 8:25:49 GMT -5
if you having problems still with that valve adjustment, hit me up, its so easy a child can do it. dont need to do nothing but start the bike, and adjust those "do hickey's" with the bike running. when it sounds good, they are adjusted. This bike aint no rocket, its a chinese scooter.
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on the valve cover I spotted on a thread I can't find. The dohickies are used to set the valves. Had the procedure but the thread title wasn't about setting the valves. Anyone seen this thread and where it can be found? 
but I still have a problem 
The RPM gauge goes fine up to 3000RPM and then if I try to go past 3000RPM's it nose dives to zero and starts cutting out. I have not touched anything other than removing the spark plug, setting TDC and adjusting the valves...am I missing something that I should also be doing?